Dress Question #2...Markings
#1
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I'm using temp. adhesive to put my patterns on the fabric and then cutting the fabric. Some of the patterns call for cutting on the cold and so on. How do I mark the fabric before taking the pattern off as the instructions call for? Also, there are notches, do I cut those out before I sew or after? What markings does the fabric need and not need? I wish these instructions were a little more clear and understandable for me. I almost wish I didn't have to do this now...I'm actually not having very much fun with this, not like I do when I quilt.
Thank you for your patience with me and this project. I know I'll more questions.
Thank you for your patience with me and this project. I know I'll more questions.
#2
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I haven't attempted clothing yet, but I did buy a bunch of patterns when they were on sale for super cheap at Joanns. I have wondered about those notches too!! I am sure once you get the hang of it you will enjoy making clothes.
For marking the fabric if you are going to trace around the pattern you can get fabric pens that are washable. But to mark under a pattern and onto the fabric you can get transfer paper (looks like carbon copy paper). You put the paper between the fabric and the pattern and use a tool that looks like a mini-pizza cutter to trace over the pattern to transfer the markings onto the fabric. I don't know the names of these items off hand but I will look them up for you and post them!! I hope this was what you were asking for
For marking the fabric if you are going to trace around the pattern you can get fabric pens that are washable. But to mark under a pattern and onto the fabric you can get transfer paper (looks like carbon copy paper). You put the paper between the fabric and the pattern and use a tool that looks like a mini-pizza cutter to trace over the pattern to transfer the markings onto the fabric. I don't know the names of these items off hand but I will look them up for you and post them!! I hope this was what you were asking for
#4
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Originally Posted by leona07
The tool is called a tracing wheel and cost about a $1. And the paper is just called tracing paper, i think. It is also inexpensive.
#5
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It has been a while since I have sewn garments, but if I remember correctly, the notches are there to help you line up the pieces to sew together. kinda like how we match up the seams in quilting.
Rose Hall
ps. please post pics when you finish!
Rose Hall
ps. please post pics when you finish!
#6
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Alturas, CA
Posts: 9,393
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I've never used temporary adhesive for pattern pieces before. As far as marking details, that's usually done with tracing paper, found at your local fabric store, to do this, you will also need a tracing wheel. As far as the notches, you can either cut around the notches or cut inside where the notch goes, I usually do cut the inside, it's well within the seam allowance of 5/8. It's really not that hard, but it would certainly help you feel more confident if you had someone there to help, it's actually fun. I used to sew all my granddaughter's clothes. If you would like you can PM me and maybe I can help you along.
#7
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Alturas, CA
Posts: 9,393
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The fabric is right sides together, then the tracing paper (contrasting color from fabric) is placed on both sides of the fabric pieces and under your pattern paper, use the tracing wheel on the lines noted on the pattern paper. Hope this helps.
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: currently central new jersey
Posts: 8,623
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when cutting the notches the new thought is to simply snip where the notches are. once or twice or three times, however many they show. then just line them up with pins for sewing.
for cutting on the lines: unless you will be making more than one size from the same pattern, the easiest way to mark is with a highlighter:
find the line indicating the size you've chosen for that part of the pattern (i.e. size 8 for the shoulders and neck, but size 12 for the bust) and with a highlighter, blend the sizes together to create one smooth line for cutting. you would follow the size 8 line and blend it into the size 12 line. one line will be dotted for example and the other dashed for example, so they are not that hard to find. just blend.
tracing paper: unless you have darts, you shouldn't even need them. but, if you do, place one paper on the table face up against the wrong side of the fabric and the other face down against the wrong side of the fabric. follow the new blended lines (if you did that) with the tracing wheel, which is a handle and what looks like a spur attached. the points on the spur makes little dots through the tracing paper onto the fabric, so you can see where to pin two layers together or where to mark a point as on the point of a bust dart.
it sounds like a lot of information, but once you've done it, it will be easy.
my recommendation is to learn one method at a time. the first should be the sizing, not the darts. once you've sized correctly, the whole thing falls into place.
.
for cutting on the lines: unless you will be making more than one size from the same pattern, the easiest way to mark is with a highlighter:
find the line indicating the size you've chosen for that part of the pattern (i.e. size 8 for the shoulders and neck, but size 12 for the bust) and with a highlighter, blend the sizes together to create one smooth line for cutting. you would follow the size 8 line and blend it into the size 12 line. one line will be dotted for example and the other dashed for example, so they are not that hard to find. just blend.
tracing paper: unless you have darts, you shouldn't even need them. but, if you do, place one paper on the table face up against the wrong side of the fabric and the other face down against the wrong side of the fabric. follow the new blended lines (if you did that) with the tracing wheel, which is a handle and what looks like a spur attached. the points on the spur makes little dots through the tracing paper onto the fabric, so you can see where to pin two layers together or where to mark a point as on the point of a bust dart.
it sounds like a lot of information, but once you've done it, it will be easy.
my recommendation is to learn one method at a time. the first should be the sizing, not the darts. once you've sized correctly, the whole thing falls into place.
.
#9
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,581
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If you think you might need to alter the garment later, cut the notches OUT and leave the seam allowance intact.
Making little 1/8 inch clips where the notches are is a good suggestion.
The notches are just guides for lining up the pieces. Example: The sleeve has a single notch and a double notch. If I remember correctly, the garment front has a single notch and the garment back has a double notch.
What kind of fabric are you using?
Most markings are placed on the wrong side of the fabric so they won't show after the garment is finished.
There might be something on youtube that will give you clues.
Also, patternreview.com might have some help.
Making little 1/8 inch clips where the notches are is a good suggestion.
The notches are just guides for lining up the pieces. Example: The sleeve has a single notch and a double notch. If I remember correctly, the garment front has a single notch and the garment back has a double notch.
What kind of fabric are you using?
Most markings are placed on the wrong side of the fabric so they won't show after the garment is finished.
There might be something on youtube that will give you clues.
Also, patternreview.com might have some help.
#10
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I've not officially made clothing myself but have watched my mom for years and she's taught me some. She just cuts around the pattern piece and when she gets to a notch she'll cut the fabric that way but not necessarily need to mark the fabric. If you're not comfy enough winging it like that a washable marker used for fabric would work to just draw the mirror image of the notch so you'll know where it is before you start cutting. Umm clear as mud? Cuz I need visuals, not sure how you learn :).
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