Flimsy Paper Clothes Sewing Pattern Question
#22
I use cheap muslin to make patterns. I use a sharpie to draw around the size I want and it bleeds through onto the muslin. I like the muslin as it will stick to the fabric so I don't have to use as many pins when I'm cutting out my fabric. I draw the grain lines and markings on the muslin along with what pattern it is. If I am trying to match repeats or wonder if I have enough fabric etc. I will make two patterns (like sleeves, fronts etc) and place on a single thickness of my fabric. You can also stitch the pattern together to judge the fit this way too. I buy the cheapest muslin that JoAnn's has by the bolt with a coupon.
#23
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 453
Jennr8r, take a deep breath - you will be JUST FINE. I do a LOT of garment making (granddaughter, granddog, etc..), so the pattern thing is going to be ok and reusable. You can go to the local copy store (this is NOT going to be a copyright problem, because this is for YOUR use), some copy stores will have you sign a waiver that the pattern you are coping is for "YOUR USE and NOT FOR SALE". If the pattern is large in size, most stores have a large machine that will take the whole pattern in one shot (you are charged by the sq ft for this - it helps if your pattern has all of the wrinkles out of it too). The other method is to cut your pattern apart (on the largest size - when it has multiple sizes), then you can use a copy machine to take copies of the pattern as you move it around. This will require you to cut and tape the pattern together to make it work. I only use this method on kids cloths because it's too much work. When I take my patterns home I will cut them out and I use a dot of glue to hold to fabric as I cut out, when finished I fold new pattern with sizes written on each one and what it's for (ie: front right, etc...). When all finished I place in a folder with the original pattern, this way I can see the finished product on the original pattern and I have my working pattern with the original. Good luck
#26
durable pattern paper that is practically free
Here is an old trick I have been using for years. To make a durable pattern paper do this. You will need some white tissue, and some white garbage bags. Go cheap...dollar store cheap for these. cut open the garbage bag so you can use a single layer. Sandwich the plastic between two pieces of tissue paper. Fuse with a hot iron. Be careful not to get any exposed plastic on your iron. If pieces are too small they can be taped together when cooled. I have used them to trace sewing patterns from books, or off of tissue patterns. I have used them to trace quilting pattern and then sewn, sans thread, over the line to make a pounce pattern for my blocks. I have used this technique to strengthen flimsy tissue patterns, just substitute tissue pattern for one side of the tissue/plastic sandwich. I have also used this concept to make some fancy papers very strong, Bonded to map paper to make lampshades, bonded to holographic tissue to make journal covers, really anything that can go under a hot iron. Also I have bonded fabric to tissue to make book cloth...a cloth that is impervious to the moisture of glue when covering book boards to use in book binding. Book cloth is very expensive and limited in color and design. If you make your own you can use any fabric. Book cloth is also good for covering boxes. This is only the things I have come up with so far, I am sure there are lots more uses I have not thought of. What else can all of you come up with. I have an old thrift shop iron I use for this so if I get some plastic on it I can scrape it off later without fear of damage, oh and use a dry iron for this. Another related tip for book binders and box coverers, the cardboard on the back of paper tablets is just as good as commercially bought book board, and it is free, well sort of.
#27
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,585
#28
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Central Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA
Posts: 7,695
J1) if I bought the pattern at a place where they go on sale every so often, I would buy another pattern.If I needed two sizes of it. (I am willing to spend four dollars for two patterns - but unwilling to spend forty dollars for two patterns.
2) if you want to trace the original pattern and keep it intact,
one can buy pattern tracing material - it is usually found with the interfacings
one can also use parchment paper - found on rolls - it is used to line baking pans - somewhere in many grocery stores
One can also buy vellum on rolls - it is found with drafting supplies
3) that flimsy tissue paper is surprisingly tough and can be used more than once.
4) I usually repackage my used patterns in a larger ziplock bag. I can usually refold it to fit the original envelope, but it is a battle.
Breathe. Take your measurements. Pattern sizes and ready -to- wear sizes may differ. Match your measurements the the size on the pattern envelope!
For a starter project - select something forgiving as to fit and construction.
2) if you want to trace the original pattern and keep it intact,
one can buy pattern tracing material - it is usually found with the interfacings
one can also use parchment paper - found on rolls - it is used to line baking pans - somewhere in many grocery stores
One can also buy vellum on rolls - it is found with drafting supplies
3) that flimsy tissue paper is surprisingly tough and can be used more than once.
4) I usually repackage my used patterns in a larger ziplock bag. I can usually refold it to fit the original envelope, but it is a battle.
Breathe. Take your measurements. Pattern sizes and ready -to- wear sizes may differ. Match your measurements the the size on the pattern envelope!
For a starter project - select something forgiving as to fit and construction.
#29
I preserve my 'flimsy' paper patterns by ironing them onto lightweight interfacing. Works wonderfully and folds neatly to place back into the envelope. You can see all the markings thru the interfacing. You can usually buy about 3 yds in a package at the fabric store for $1. At least that's what I pd last time (might have been on sale)...then trace the size you want to save before cutting away.
Marysewfun
#30
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Dallas area, Texas, USA
Posts: 3,050
I almost forgot to mention that it's important to iron (no steam, low setting) both the interfacing and the tissue pattern before you begin to trace. Best wishes!
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