Shortening the hem on a jersey dress
07-13-2014, 08:56 AM
#11
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A lot depends on the style of the garment. How is the hem done now? I think I would copy that style as closely as I could.
Many knits are finished with a single turned hem.
Many knits are finished with a single turned hem.
Last edited by bearisgray; 07-13-2014 at 09:02 AM.
07-13-2014, 09:01 AM
#12
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I like the idea of the lacy bias tape. Reduces bulk in the hem. I think there is a stretch lace that might work well too, especially if the skirt is cut larger on the bottom. You can stretch the lace lightly as you sew it to the hem so that, when you turn the hem, it is very slightly gathered for where you hand sew.
The biggest problem I see is not stretching the skirt edge when sewing on the tape. I have never been successful in getting knit fabrics to not stretch when sewing the edge on my machine. It probably helps if you can reduce the presser foot pressure on your machine; it's not adjustable on mine.
Once you cut off the hem, you will want to do some practice work on the cut-off edges to make sure you can do what you need to do without stretching the jersey. Since you are cutting off so much, you should have plenty to practice on. If the knit fabric is stretched during sewing, steaming will probably not be enough to restore it to its original size; the stitching will keep it stretched.
The biggest problem I see is not stretching the skirt edge when sewing on the tape. I have never been successful in getting knit fabrics to not stretch when sewing the edge on my machine. It probably helps if you can reduce the presser foot pressure on your machine; it's not adjustable on mine.
Once you cut off the hem, you will want to do some practice work on the cut-off edges to make sure you can do what you need to do without stretching the jersey. Since you are cutting off so much, you should have plenty to practice on. If the knit fabric is stretched during sewing, steaming will probably not be enough to restore it to its original size; the stitching will keep it stretched.
Last edited by Prism99; 07-13-2014 at 09:06 AM.
07-13-2014, 10:22 AM
#13
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Also..don't forget to use a ball point needle...or one especially made for stretch knits..otherwise you'll get runs in the fabric.
As others have said..measure and mark with chalk first..cut, then practice on your cut pieces and you'll be okay! Just remember to not push or pull the fabric as it feeds, it is very stretchy and will warp like crazy if you do. I used to make my daughter's skating dresses, and before I got a serger did them on a regular home machine with just a blind hem stitch..not the ideal setup, but it will work.
As others have said..measure and mark with chalk first..cut, then practice on your cut pieces and you'll be okay! Just remember to not push or pull the fabric as it feeds, it is very stretchy and will warp like crazy if you do. I used to make my daughter's skating dresses, and before I got a serger did them on a regular home machine with just a blind hem stitch..not the ideal setup, but it will work.
07-13-2014, 10:54 AM
#14
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 682
I would try to mimic the hem that is on there now. Serging the edge and then turn up and with a very narrow zigzag turn it up 1/4 inch and stitch. If it is a straight skirt, I would hem it with a hem like a t shirt. Trim it off and leave 1 " to turn under. Then baste the hem. Using a double needle, stitch on the right side so you catch the edge of the hem. This might even look okay on a narrow hem. or a curved one. Do as for the straight skirt, turning it up the 1 inch. Baste hem. Stitch close to the folded edge. Turn to wrong side and trim off the excess between the stitching and the cut edge. Of course I am suggesting machine stitching as my hand hems do not hardly ever look good.
07-13-2014, 11:42 AM
#15
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NM
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Use a Jersey needle, probably a 11 or 12, silk or #60 thread, cut with a pinking shears, hand stitch, BUT sometimes the jersey is OK and will not unravel and all you need to do is cut with dress shears. I have even used double needles for the hem.
07-14-2014, 05:35 PM
#19
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Location: Live in Florence, AZ
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Provided the hem is straight and even to begin with, I usually just use my rotary ruler and cutter and cut off 5 of the 6 inches. Then turn under the 1" and press, then use a double needle made for stretch fabric and stitch the hem. Most knit items are hemmed in this manner, tho not all. If you're not sure how to use the double needle or want to check how it will stitch, practice on your cut off piece first. Sometimes you have to lighten the pressure on you're pressure foot to let the fabric feed thru easier.
Hope this helps.
Faith
Hope this helps.
Faith
07-16-2014, 08:38 AM
#20
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Location: MN
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The suggestion to practice on the cut off part is a good one.
When I took Stretch and Sew classes (back in the 1970s) - if we only had a straight stitch machine -
to LENGTHEN the stitch length and then sew on the stretched fabric. When the fabric was released - then the stitches would just ride on top of the fabric - and would "give" when the fabric was stretched again.
About the worst thing one can do when sewing on a knit is to use very short length stitches on stretched fabric.
The fabric can't go back to its "normal" - and the tiny stitches are very hard to pick out.
When I took Stretch and Sew classes (back in the 1970s) - if we only had a straight stitch machine -
to LENGTHEN the stitch length and then sew on the stretched fabric. When the fabric was released - then the stitches would just ride on top of the fabric - and would "give" when the fabric was stretched again.
About the worst thing one can do when sewing on a knit is to use very short length stitches on stretched fabric.
The fabric can't go back to its "normal" - and the tiny stitches are very hard to pick out.
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