18" Ohio Star - help
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: alcaucin Spain
Posts: 10
18" Ohio Star - help
Looking for anyone to help a learner make a 18" Ohio Star block with a
pattern, it must be 18", or at least info on how to increase a 12" to 18" i
dont have a clue where to start, can anyone help????
pattern, it must be 18", or at least info on how to increase a 12" to 18" i
dont have a clue where to start, can anyone help????
#2
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,134
Hola!
The Ohio Star block is on the same grid as a 9-patch block.
http://quilting.about.com/od/blockof...star_quilt.htm
So in a 3x3 grid with a total finished measurement of 18",
then each unit in the grid would FINISH at 6".
For the 18" (finished) Ohio Star block you'll need to cut:
Background Color (including corner units):
Cut FOUR 6.5" squares for the corner units
Cut TWO 7-3/4" squares for the stars (for QST)
Star Color (including center block):
Cut ONE 6.5" square for the center block
Cut TWO 7-3/4" squares for the stars (for QST)
(QST - Quarter Square Triangle )
The instructions provided in the above link show you how to make the QST blocks from the larger cut squares, and assemble the components into the Ohio Star block.
----------------------------------------------------
Just a side note on making QST blocks - and not to confuse the issue (some people do it this way and others have specialty rulers and others cut perfectly every single time - I'm not in the last group):
I prefer to cut my QST blocks oversized and then trim down.
In order to do this, the starting squares should be cut larger than 8".
The exact size doesn't matter, as long as you have a square of each color and they're the same size.
Make the QST blocks in the same manner as the link above, but then trim them down to the exact UNFINISHED size (6.5") you need.
Hope that helps.
The Ohio Star block is on the same grid as a 9-patch block.
http://quilting.about.com/od/blockof...star_quilt.htm
So in a 3x3 grid with a total finished measurement of 18",
then each unit in the grid would FINISH at 6".
For the 18" (finished) Ohio Star block you'll need to cut:
Background Color (including corner units):
Cut FOUR 6.5" squares for the corner units
Cut TWO 7-3/4" squares for the stars (for QST)
Star Color (including center block):
Cut ONE 6.5" square for the center block
Cut TWO 7-3/4" squares for the stars (for QST)
(QST - Quarter Square Triangle )
The instructions provided in the above link show you how to make the QST blocks from the larger cut squares, and assemble the components into the Ohio Star block.
----------------------------------------------------
Just a side note on making QST blocks - and not to confuse the issue (some people do it this way and others have specialty rulers and others cut perfectly every single time - I'm not in the last group):
I prefer to cut my QST blocks oversized and then trim down.
In order to do this, the starting squares should be cut larger than 8".
The exact size doesn't matter, as long as you have a square of each color and they're the same size.
Make the QST blocks in the same manner as the link above, but then trim them down to the exact UNFINISHED size (6.5") you need.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by MTS; 09-15-2012 at 01:50 AM.
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Northern California mountains
Posts: 12,538
First, let's make sure we are talking about the same block, since I have met about 6 or7 different "Ohio Stars". I am attaching what I have most often seen called an Ohio Star. If you look at it, there are different sub-blocks. For a 12" (finished) block, each of these is made at 3.5". (3" finished size). The math rule is
1. subtract the seam allowance.
2. multiply each unit to the finished size you want, in this case, you want it half again as large, or 4.5" finished.
3. add the seam allowances back in, so each sub-unit will be 5".
If you are making the center sub-unit as one larger square, instead of 4 smaller one, as I have shown for convenience, the same rules apply for it. Original cut size is 6.5" Change to 6". Increase x 1.5-> 9", add allowance and cut at 9.5".
Other people have other methods for making HSTs. I add 1" to the finished size I want, mark the diagonal, sew 1/4" to each side and cut on the marked line. I then press and trim to the exact size I want. I use my ruler's 45* line to make sure I get it exactly right.
1. subtract the seam allowance.
2. multiply each unit to the finished size you want, in this case, you want it half again as large, or 4.5" finished.
3. add the seam allowances back in, so each sub-unit will be 5".
If you are making the center sub-unit as one larger square, instead of 4 smaller one, as I have shown for convenience, the same rules apply for it. Original cut size is 6.5" Change to 6". Increase x 1.5-> 9", add allowance and cut at 9.5".
Other people have other methods for making HSTs. I add 1" to the finished size I want, mark the diagonal, sew 1/4" to each side and cut on the marked line. I then press and trim to the exact size I want. I use my ruler's 45* line to make sure I get it exactly right.
#6
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,134
http://quilting.about.com/od/blockof...ooth_patch.htm
#8
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,666
There are so many block patterns with the same name -
and so many names for some block patterns -
It can - and does - get confusing. That's where an illustration is so helpful when discussing (or, in some cases, cussing) a particular block.
and so many names for some block patterns -
It can - and does - get confusing. That's where an illustration is so helpful when discussing (or, in some cases, cussing) a particular block.
#10
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,134
But when you turn it, it the proportions change, so visually it's now closer to a 3x3 grid then a 4x4.
I have a picture somewhere that a friend did on a Round Robin border years ago.
Let me see if I can find it.
eta: Can't find the picture but I'm sure you get the idea.
Last edited by MTS; 09-15-2012 at 09:09 AM.
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