#2 Secret to Good Bindings
#31
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,376
Oh, my! I was looking for a visual on the mitered corners. This might or might not be the answer for you - but LOOK at the way she says to finish the binding!!! I'm always twisting my binding when I try to finish it off in a continuous piece with a diagonal seam. I can do it, but it often takes multiple attempts. This looks like the answer to my prayers!!
http://www.kayewood.com/tips/bindings.pdf
This video is gadget heavy but still rather interesting:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVuQ0eiRS8U
http://www.kayewood.com/tips/bindings.pdf
This video is gadget heavy but still rather interesting:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVuQ0eiRS8U
Last edited by sparkys_mom; 12-01-2011 at 08:50 AM.
#32
Ditto - I was just thinking the same thing. I love her method for binding! I showed a girlfriend the glue method for binding a couple of weeks ago and she was super excited.
#35
I have this gadget but so far it is useless as I am still trying to master it. The lady in the video makes it look very easy but I'm sure she's had plenty of practice. I know I can do what Mr. Holice is suggesting.
(This video is gadget heavy but still rather interesting:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVuQ0eiRS8U
(This video is gadget heavy but still rather interesting:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVuQ0eiRS8U
#39
I have just recently started doing the mitered bindings.It was way easier than it looked.I am lucky that the machine I use most of the time for bindings has a 1/4 inch in front of the needle marked on the plate-very helpful.
#40
Did I miss something?....can't find the "link" or "demonstration".
There was always a problem for me to determine the exact place to stop when approaching the end of side of the quilt to the corner. All instructions say to stop at the point that is the width of the seam allowance. Usually this is stop at 1/4" from the end since the seam allowance was 1/4". Whatever the width, one should stop that distance from the end. I have most of the gadgets that help determine this point but I either couldn't find them or lost them etc etc etc.
One day I accidently did the following:
When you get to about 3"-4" from the end, fold the binding back on itself lining its fold up with the edge of the quilt.
Then fold the binding strip to the left making a 45 degree fold on the top. This fold gives you a guide where to stop whether it is 1/4" or 3/8" or whatever. You can either make a mark along the edge of just hold it until the needle is approaching the fold. Then (and this is important), stop about 2 stitches before you get to the fold or line and backstitch a couple stitches. Cut threads and take out of the machine. This 2 stitch opening allows for the multiple folds when you turn the binding to the back for the mitre. It is the same principle as the scant 1/4" in piecing. Space should be left to accommodate the fold which takes up space. Then refold the binding strop to the right and down to make the mitre. Start the next seam by putting the needle just inside the edge to hold al the strips until you line up for the next seam.
Be sure the edges of this fold are even or the mitre will not fold in a good 45 degree angle.
One day I accidently did the following:
When you get to about 3"-4" from the end, fold the binding back on itself lining its fold up with the edge of the quilt.
Then fold the binding strip to the left making a 45 degree fold on the top. This fold gives you a guide where to stop whether it is 1/4" or 3/8" or whatever. You can either make a mark along the edge of just hold it until the needle is approaching the fold. Then (and this is important), stop about 2 stitches before you get to the fold or line and backstitch a couple stitches. Cut threads and take out of the machine. This 2 stitch opening allows for the multiple folds when you turn the binding to the back for the mitre. It is the same principle as the scant 1/4" in piecing. Space should be left to accommodate the fold which takes up space. Then refold the binding strop to the right and down to make the mitre. Start the next seam by putting the needle just inside the edge to hold al the strips until you line up for the next seam.
Be sure the edges of this fold are even or the mitre will not fold in a good 45 degree angle.
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