? about t shirt quilts
#11
I make them for the kids at church as they graduate. I have a 15" square and I make them all the same size. I use fusible interfacing on the back of each. I use fleece for the backing, so I don't need any batting. I usually do a zigzag or serpentine stitch over the ditches. I get them done pretty quickly. It seems you would want it done quickly so he can enjoy it while he can still see it.
#12
Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 276
whatever thread you would normally use is fine. I use either a cotton or a cotton/poly thread. i no longer make t-shirt quilts for others, but when i did, I would first cut away sleeves & neck and then cut my blocks--if you use all the same size block it's easier. I use Pellon 911FF interfacing, with cotton sashings & borders and then just a meander to quilt--the shirts with the large "plastic" logo's you will want to quilt around, but be careful quilting through--they needle will sometimes be slower through it and if you have to rip you will be left with holes. And watch that you don't hit one of those logo's with a hot iron--it will make a huge mess! also, know that if your interfacing is not sticking well to a t-shirt it could be that the shirt is a poly and you'll need to adjust your iron. Good luck! p.S.--I'd make my DD work with me on this one--don't want all her friends getting the idea that she can make these!
#13
I have made lots of t-shirt quilts and I like making them also. There are a few tips that you learn as you go along that does make it easier each time. I no longer bother to remove sleeves etc. before cutting my blocks, I just lay the shirt flat and use my Shape Cut ruler to cut around the logos.
I have found that using narrow strips of waxed paper laid over the rubbery or other difficult to sew over design images solves the problem of sticking or dragging of the sewing foot. I try not to have to sew thru the waxed paper but if I do have to, simply run the back of your seam ripper point over the seam and the paper tears out easily. Also, if you need to iron over this type image, all you need to do is use a piece of shirt scrap to lay between your iron and the image, i.e. a pressing cloth. The main thing is to not touch your iron directly to the image. This works well when you need to use the iron to secure the backing to the shirt square.
When you are sewing regular fabric to the t-shirt fabric, it works better if the t-shirt fabric is on the bottom and the woven (not knit) fabric on top. This way it will feed thru the machine more evenly.
I have found that using narrow strips of waxed paper laid over the rubbery or other difficult to sew over design images solves the problem of sticking or dragging of the sewing foot. I try not to have to sew thru the waxed paper but if I do have to, simply run the back of your seam ripper point over the seam and the paper tears out easily. Also, if you need to iron over this type image, all you need to do is use a piece of shirt scrap to lay between your iron and the image, i.e. a pressing cloth. The main thing is to not touch your iron directly to the image. This works well when you need to use the iron to secure the backing to the shirt square.
When you are sewing regular fabric to the t-shirt fabric, it works better if the t-shirt fabric is on the bottom and the woven (not knit) fabric on top. This way it will feed thru the machine more evenly.
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 158
I am working on my 10th one. This one is more of a challenge as there is no way to get all blocks the same size. I would suggest poly batting to help with the weight. They can get heavy. I like to quilt around the designs on the shirts rather than an overall meander. First I always measure the designs and see what size blocks I can get and then use Graph paper to design it and layout the shirts. I also will change the thread colors to match each shirt which can be a pain but looks nicer. I use poly thread because I have the most colors. I keep a piece of the wonder under paper backing and use that to press over the designs and prevent sticking. Sometimes you have to quilt into the tshirt paint especially if it is a big designs ... Make sure you use a new needle so it is sharp and can penetrate the paint easily. I have also done some cut and paste i.e. Take the numbers off the back of sports shirts and using wonder under stick them onto the front and applique them then quit around them. That takes up some of the blank space if you have a small design on the front but need to use a large block to maintain a size.also I recommend using cotton dashing in lieu of sewing them block to block. That helps break up the stretchiness of the knits. Here are some pics of some I have done.
#16
Thank you for the quick replies and suggestions. This project is being planned long distance. And quilts have been a conversation between them for a long time as he still has a quilt from his grandmother. They will both be a part of it as much as possible with one in AZ and my daughter in the burgh but I will do the actual sewing. A t shirt quilt has never been on my list to do but this is a different situation with the young man dealing with a second corneal transplants at the age of 40 with no happy ending. He has an inherited disease which took his mother's sight also.
He understands it does take time and will pay for it but I am okay with just paying for the supplies. On good days when he can see and it makes him smile that is all that matters.
He understands it does take time and will pay for it but I am okay with just paying for the supplies. On good days when he can see and it makes him smile that is all that matters.
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 276
I am working on my 10th one. This one is more of a challenge as there is no way to get all blocks the same size. I would suggest poly batting to help with the weight. They can get heavy. I like to quilt around the designs on the shirts rather than an overall meander. First I always measure the designs and see what size blocks I can get and then use Graph paper to design it and layout the shirts. I also will change the thread colors to match each shirt which can be a pain but looks nicer. I use poly thread because I have the most colors. I keep a piece of the wonder under paper backing and use that to press over the designs and prevent sticking. Sometimes you have to quilt into the tshirt paint especially if it is a big designs ... Make sure you use a new needle so it is sharp and can penetrate the paint easily. I have also done some cut and paste i.e. Take the numbers off the back of sports shirts and using wonder under stick them onto the front and applique them then quit around them. That takes up some of the blank space if you have a small design on the front but need to use a large block to maintain a size.also I recommend using cotton dashing in lieu of sewing them block to block. That helps break up the stretchiness of the knits. Here are some pics of some I have done.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 491
I have made several t-shirt quilts now. I have made a "shadow" one like oreo and used all different size blocks. my daughters quilt I even used the printed school logo from warm-up pants down the side border and the small sleeve logos across the top & bottom borders. I wish I could post pics but I have tried -& mostly failed. Some I quilted myself but my daughter's I had long-armed. She did a beautiful job. I used poly-cotton thread on all with no problem. I did learn not to use jersey shirts, I could not get the interfacing stick to it. It was insisted on, now I say no. I say go for it, I'm sure your young man will love it.
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