Adhesive spray and backing creases
10-31-2023, 12:06 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 150
Adhesive spray and backing creases
On Saturday I used 505 Temp Adhesive spray and put together 100% polyester batting and 100% cotton backing. The backing has multiple creases in it where it wasn't smoothed out. I didn't feel well and should have waited another day to attempt this. Can anyone give me some ideas on how to smooth out the creases? I tried taking off the batting but it started to pull apart and stick to the backing. What a mess I've made. Thanks in advance.
10-31-2023, 03:06 PM
#3
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portage, Michigan
Posts: 7,688
I use spray baste for all of the quilts I quilt myself. Lift off the back in the area where you are finding wrinkles. Reposition and smooth out the wrinkles with your hand. The baste should reattach If you need, do a light respray of your baste. I also use a large 12.5 square as a press tool. I start at the center of the top or the back and firmly push the template toward the edge where ever I see small bumps. This will usually smooth them out easily. Don't give up on spray baste. Keep trying. I get FAR fewer wrinkles during quilting when I use spray baste than when I used pins.
(I am not sure about spraying water on your piece. That might lead to unexpected shrinking of your fabric. Just gently separate the back from the batting in the area you need to.)
(I am not sure about spraying water on your piece. That might lead to unexpected shrinking of your fabric. Just gently separate the back from the batting in the area you need to.)
10-31-2023, 03:18 PM
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,141
I typically use a pretty fluffy poly batt, I'm thinking the problem is from too heavy a spray. You shouldn't be able to see the spray or feel cold or wet spots, those are all signs of too much. About the only thing I've found to do with too much spray is keep it out and open... may take up to a week to dissipate enough to smooth out.
Go in small sections. I typically go about 1 foot each pass from the center to one end. I use my 6x24" ruler as a reach extension. Then I'd turn it around and do the other half, still only a foot or so at a time. Once I got the backing onto the batting, I'd turn the whole thing over and put on the top as carefully as possible, but it seemed like I always had to do the back again. For the re-smoothing I'd typically work from the corners toward the middle. The front rarely needed a re-smoothing.
Use as big a work surface as you can -- for years I used my queen sized bed (with four posters) which made it challenging to do large project. I took off the beddings and covered it with heavy duty kraft (brown) paper. Later I got a ping pong table and clamps which was a better height and really sped up the process.
Go in small sections. I typically go about 1 foot each pass from the center to one end. I use my 6x24" ruler as a reach extension. Then I'd turn it around and do the other half, still only a foot or so at a time. Once I got the backing onto the batting, I'd turn the whole thing over and put on the top as carefully as possible, but it seemed like I always had to do the back again. For the re-smoothing I'd typically work from the corners toward the middle. The front rarely needed a re-smoothing.
Use as big a work surface as you can -- for years I used my queen sized bed (with four posters) which made it challenging to do large project. I took off the beddings and covered it with heavy duty kraft (brown) paper. Later I got a ping pong table and clamps which was a better height and really sped up the process.
10-31-2023, 03:45 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 150
My biggest problem is the quilt backing is 108x108. The batting is 120x120. I have about 10-12 long creases. When I try to separate the batting from the backing, in the center of the quilt, the batting starts falling apart. I was wondering if I washed it if the batting would fall off altogether and I could just replace it and do it right. Maybe I should strike it up to a lesson learned and just finish it.
10-31-2023, 06:00 PM
#7
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,581
Can you post a picture of it so we can see what it looks like?
It the creases are like big pleats, then they probably "won't quilt out" - although I have seen some longarmers pull off some magic.
If you are willing to sacrifice the batting, you might try pulling off what you can, moistening the parts that are still sticking and then pull that batting off.
If you have already washed the backing fabric before you cut it, no need to worry about additional shrinkage.
If you did not wash it before cutting it, I think you might want to make sure it all got wet so it would shrink evenly.
A concern for me about putting it in a washing machine - might all that loose batting clog somethng in the washing machine or drains?
Maybe soak it in a bathtub or very large basin, so you can capture anything loose before it gets in the drain?
It the creases are like big pleats, then they probably "won't quilt out" - although I have seen some longarmers pull off some magic.
If you are willing to sacrifice the batting, you might try pulling off what you can, moistening the parts that are still sticking and then pull that batting off.
If you have already washed the backing fabric before you cut it, no need to worry about additional shrinkage.
If you did not wash it before cutting it, I think you might want to make sure it all got wet so it would shrink evenly.
A concern for me about putting it in a washing machine - might all that loose batting clog somethng in the washing machine or drains?
Maybe soak it in a bathtub or very large basin, so you can capture anything loose before it gets in the drain?
11-01-2023, 02:54 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Northeast
Posts: 682
I feel for you. If you decide to continue to try to get the wrinkles out, instead of leaving them, where the batting comes up in some places, use your extra overage of batting to fill in the spots that have issues.
It won't help this time, but what I learned to do is I only baste one side of my quilt at a time. I usually do the backing side first then let it sit a couple of days to 'cure/dry' then I baste the front and put it on, then let it sit for a couple of days. I keep it out while it is 'sitting' with no folding etc. just laying out flat to keep any folds/creases from setting in. It solved the problem of shifting or creases/wrinkles appearing while doing the opposite side. Once the one side was dry, and I did the next side, the side I did first didn't move.
I don't use the spray, but use the school glue stick, but same difference in that the fabric is being stuck down instead of pinned.
It won't help this time, but what I learned to do is I only baste one side of my quilt at a time. I usually do the backing side first then let it sit a couple of days to 'cure/dry' then I baste the front and put it on, then let it sit for a couple of days. I keep it out while it is 'sitting' with no folding etc. just laying out flat to keep any folds/creases from setting in. It solved the problem of shifting or creases/wrinkles appearing while doing the opposite side. Once the one side was dry, and I did the next side, the side I did first didn't move.
I don't use the spray, but use the school glue stick, but same difference in that the fabric is being stuck down instead of pinned.
Last edited by quiltsfor; 11-01-2023 at 02:57 AM.
11-01-2023, 03:57 AM
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Portage, Michigan
Posts: 7,688
I do not wait between spraying and and smoothing. I understand that may be needed when glue basting. I am only addressing spray baste that dries almost instantly unless it is applied too heavily.
Step 1 - press my backing to get out any fold lines.
Step 2 - I lay out the backing on a table and use clamps to hold it smooth. (I have access to moveable tables at my Senior Center. It is so worth the membership fee to have these tables for sandwiching my quilts.)
Step 3 - Lay on batting ( I use Warm and Natural. I have never used a poly batting.)
Step 4 - Lay on top This allows me to be sure back, bat, and top fit and have sufficient extra fabric all around.
Step 5 - I fold back about 1/2 of the quilt spray the back, smooth on the batting, spray the bat and smooth the top
Step 6 - Repeat with the other half.
Step 7 - Smooth with your hand to detect any folds and correct them now while the bat is still help smooth.
Step 8 - Remove the clamps that are still holding the back. Quilt away!
As suggested above, particularly with a quilt the size you have, do Steps 5 & 6 in smaller segments. Better yet "phone a friend" to help you move those large amounts of fabric and to smooth them with your hand as you go along.
I wish you success in reworking your quilt sandwich.
Step 1 - press my backing to get out any fold lines.
Step 2 - I lay out the backing on a table and use clamps to hold it smooth. (I have access to moveable tables at my Senior Center. It is so worth the membership fee to have these tables for sandwiching my quilts.)
Step 3 - Lay on batting ( I use Warm and Natural. I have never used a poly batting.)
Step 4 - Lay on top This allows me to be sure back, bat, and top fit and have sufficient extra fabric all around.
Step 5 - I fold back about 1/2 of the quilt spray the back, smooth on the batting, spray the bat and smooth the top
Step 6 - Repeat with the other half.
Step 7 - Smooth with your hand to detect any folds and correct them now while the bat is still help smooth.
Step 8 - Remove the clamps that are still holding the back. Quilt away!
As suggested above, particularly with a quilt the size you have, do Steps 5 & 6 in smaller segments. Better yet "phone a friend" to help you move those large amounts of fabric and to smooth them with your hand as you go along.
I wish you success in reworking your quilt sandwich.
