Antique Quilt Ideas
10-01-2016, 02:24 PM
#21
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Piedmont Virginia in the Foothills of the Blue Ridge Mtns.
Posts: 8,562
Yes, I would do that. It's likely that the base fabric is not the best quality either, so stabilizing them all would definitely save this work for a longer time when you are finished.
At my guild we have been encouraged to use a very light weight fusible behind all our base blocks before doing any redwork as it help to hide the tails, etc. of the stitches. I really like the look that this idea has given my work.
Since you have already begun the stitching, try it on one block first to see if you can get a good flat fuse on the fabric. Otherwise you might want to fuse first THEN stitch the rest of the blocks. Not sure how that will look; you'll need to compare I suppose. They sure are cute though!
Jan in VA
At my guild we have been encouraged to use a very light weight fusible behind all our base blocks before doing any redwork as it help to hide the tails, etc. of the stitches. I really like the look that this idea has given my work.
Since you have already begun the stitching, try it on one block first to see if you can get a good flat fuse on the fabric. Otherwise you might want to fuse first THEN stitch the rest of the blocks. Not sure how that will look; you'll need to compare I suppose. They sure are cute though!
Jan in VA
10-01-2016, 02:44 PM
#22
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Corpus Christi, Tx.
Posts: 16,105
These embroideries remind me of the first kit I got for Christmas when I was a small child about 7 -8 years old. That would've been in '57-58". Much like some blocks of redwork I got at an estate sale also.
10-01-2016, 06:38 PM
#23
Power Poster
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 10,357
I agree with Jan, you would have to go with something really fine though. I love the look of the snowballing, embroidery never shows up too well on computer monitors, just be sure in your own mind (and visuals) the embroidered blocks do not get lost with the vibrancy of the patch blocks. You may wish to consider using solids?
10-03-2016, 05:44 AM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 383
Since the hoop outline cannot be erased by either heat or water on these blocks, I decided to use the same green to disguise it & frame the pictures and try to give it a "finished" look.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]559522[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]559523[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]559522[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]559523[/ATTACH]
10-06-2016, 05:37 PM
#27
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Piedmont Virginia in the Foothills of the Blue Ridge Mtns.
Posts: 8,562
The fusible interfacing I've use says "featherweight" or some other word to mean ultra light weight. Also from Joannes.
Did you try dampening it from the back ONLY on the hoop lines and then pressing? But, I think the hoop markings will eventually relax out.
Did you try dampening it from the back ONLY on the hoop lines and then pressing? But, I think the hoop markings will eventually relax out.
Last edited by Jan in VA; 10-06-2016 at 05:40 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
craftybear
Links and Resources
14
11-28-2010 09:07 AM
tallysue
Introduce Yourself
13
11-14-2010 12:06 PM
BettyGee
Main
17
11-08-2010 04:05 PM
FERSID
Links and Resources
28
05-28-2010 02:57 PM
