#1piecemaker

I was watching a tutorial on the Pounce pad. I thought I just had to have one. So, I ordered it. Wound up and gave it as a gift. But, just traded for another one. Before I open it, I just wondered what kind of luck you have had out of it. Now, that I've got it, it looks like it might be really messy! Is it worth the bother?

merridancer

I use the pounce pad when my fabric is dark and the pens can't be seen. It is messy, and if you are very allergic this could be a problem. I do not use the pounce stencils cause the pounce pad can be used with any stencil, so there is no need to buy the special ones that the pounce company makes. The pounce pad has its uses with the dark colors and I use both the white chalk and the blue chalk (though not as much).

mighty

I have it and have not used it yet.

Crqltr

I like it, faster than marking with pens or pencils and I can actually see the lines!

omaluvs2quilt

I just used it for the first time and like it better than most things I've tried. I have the iron off "magic" pounce and just use a small painting sponge type brush, works great! I made my own stencils from the Golden Threads paper by sewing thru them with my machine unthreaded. I also used the pounce on a light cream fabric and could see it just fine. I'm sure the pounce pad would work too, just rub over the stencil.

Phyllis nm

THIS MAY OR NOT BE HELPFUL ALWAYS TEST ON SCRAP<O:p></O:p>
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CHALK<O:p></O:p>
For 25 years I have done freehand embroidery work and this has worked best for me.<O:p></O:p>
I ground up different colors of chalk in my mill grinder to see what worked best [what could be seen and removed]. White chalk [baby power, or corn starch] can be vacuumed off on med and dark fabric no problem.<O:p></O:p>
Other colors can be reduced in color intense with white, the more intense the color the harder it is to remove. I just use white and light blue now, the blue is reduced with white. Blue and white chalk is at hardware stores for snap lines [cheap].<O:p></O:p>
You can use a vanishing power with a black light on any color [in the dark]. It is very good for names.<O:p></O:p>
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PAPER<O:p></O:p>
I use canary paper from an art or drafting supply.<O:p></O:p>
I tear off more than I need and trace a design with 5mm mechanical pencil, place on a piece of ¼” foam rubber on a firm surface. Then I use a small needle syringe [for shots] and poke holes into the lines at key points about 1/8[SUP]th[/SUP]” apart following the design, then I flip it over and sand off the tips with a sanding block or sand paper. I have also used a clear plastic film a permanent marker and sanded the tips, or a small stencil burner. When sanding place pattern on foam or batting, not on a hard surface, to much pressure you might tear your pattern. Mark top front with an “F” [north] so you know placement direction. This way you can tell which way your pattern is laying, and it is easy to <st1:PersonName sab="1239" w:st="on">rev</st1:PersonName>erse, or flip.<O:p></O:p>
Then I have a reusable pattern I can use over and over.<O:p></O:p>
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APPLYING CHALK<O:p></O:p>
I took a short wide mouth ball jar lid and a nail [or drill] punched a lot of holes in it. <O:p></O:p>
Took a ¼”green scrubber cut it to fit in<st1:PersonName sab="1270" w:st="on">sid</st1:PersonName>e rim on top of the lid.<O:p></O:p>
Took a scrap of velour about 3/8” larger than the lid and placed it on top of the scrubber then screwed the hole thing together onto the jar with my chalk in it. You will have to pounce a while till the chalk starts coming through good. Wipe off your pattern before replacing it so you don’t get shadows. <O:p></O:p>
I did this, years before any thing else was on the market, and still use the same ones today.<O:p></O:p>
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PATTERN MARKING<O:p></O:p>
Holding your pattern down firm with one hand, slide your chalk jar across your pattern in one direction only, you can repeat as long as you do not let up with your first hand. You can see if you need to slide again as long as the first hand stays in place. If it is wrong, vacuum it off and start over. <O:p></O:p>
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ON A QUILT MACHINE:<O:p></O:p>
I use a piece of Plexiglas about 48x20 and slide it between my batting and my quilt top. This makes a firmer surface to stencil on. Then I take my pattern stencil and place it where I want it, swipe it with powder. Slide the Plexiglas out and quilt. Then vacuum the power off later.<O:p></O:p>
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If unsure where to place your pattern on the quilt after it is on the machine try this. Draw placement lines on your pattern, north-south-east-west. [Fold in half matching center both directions]. Mark your top with an X placement before you load it on the machine. Then you have your placement mark and don’t have to guess alignment. <O:p></O:p>
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LETTERING <O:p></O:p>
I have made charts of script alphabets in different sizes 1”-2”-ect. on large sheets of card stock paper. [ years ago, with a projector.] Then I trace my words to transfer to my garment or quilt. Now copy machines are the answer. <O:p></O:p>
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I am fast at this as I have done it for years. If you think this is to long, I don’t type, I peck.<O:p></O:p>
I am just saying…..I hope this helps someone.<O:p></O:p>
Phyllis <O:p></O:p>
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NJ Quilter

Just remember to 'rub' vs 'pounce'...at least that's what I've read. I've never used mine.

BellaBoo

I use it now and then. Like NJQuilter posted, don't pounce it a good swipe is all it needs.

Holice

There are two kinds that look alike. The pounce is chalk The second is filled with a different white powder or Miracle Chalk. the first of chalk will wipe off easily. The second does not and can be removed with a steam iron.
The miracle chalk stays on longer. Definitely use a rubbing motion like erasing on a black board for the miracle chalk.
Miracle Chalk only is available in white. The company has not been able to find a color that will come off with steam.
There have been some reports of the blue chalk available in the Pounce not coming off when brushed.

lfletcher

I use it on darker fabrics, but I apply with a sponge type paint brush. Less messy and the lines are clearer. I do like it for marking quilts over anything else, but of course, it won't work on light fabrics. I have been told to steer away from the blue powder as it is for tailoring and the marks won't come out of quilts.