charlottequilts

If you don't want to haul your quilt out to one of the places mentioned or don't want to spend a lot of time scrubbing their table (that would be me), you could get one of those plastic folding tables from HD or Lowes. I think they're on sale a lot in the summer for gatherings. If you don't like its height, you could add risers or set on a tall bed. Risers are super cheap at BBB. I just pinned one at chest height, using a combination of risers, and it was heaven.

I have learned the hard way about bending over a low surface to baste.

Hugs,
Charlotte

citruscountyquilter

I use glue basting and never have globs so I'm not sure how you're doing it. I hold the glue bottle fairly high above the quilt bat and a thin stream will start to run out and then I just make zig zag motions with the thin stream. If I do get more than I want in a space, usually when I start or stop, I just smooth it out with my finger. I've never had a problem with a sewing machine needle going through the layers with glue basting. You don't need much glue for it to work.

I use Warm and Natural batting which is 100% cotton with scrim. I believe that polyester batting is more prone to shifting and might produce more wrinkles.

I sandwich in sections on a small table. I put the batting down first, squiggle the glue on it and then smooth the backing over that. You can readily see any wrinkles and smooth them out with your hand. I don't have to clamp the batting down because it is thicker and stays relatively stable throughout the process. When that section is dry I move the batting and back, fold the back the backing and repeat the gluing process. When I'm done with the back I flip the whole thing over and repeat the process with the front.

When I'm working on a smaller surface I will mark the center point both vertically and horizontally with straight pins of the batting, backing and top and match those up to center my batting and backing and eventually my top so I don't end up with things lopsided.

The thing that made sandwiching so much easier for me was not having to have all three layers together at the same time like you do with thread or pin basting and having either the back or front of the quilt which has thin more slippery material against the smooth slippery surface of a table. By putting the batting down first which is more stable and then putting the other on top of that was a real life changer for me.

I'm young enough and agile enough to crawl around on the floor but I choose not to do it. It is so much easier and more fun to not do it on the floor. You don't need a big surface to baste.

Prism99

I haven't read through the entire thread, so forgive me if I am repeating.

One way to reduce or eliminate puckers in the backing is to heavily starch the backing fabric. I use a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo liquid laundry starch and water, "paint" this onto the yardage using a large wall painting brush, wait a couple of minutes to make sure the starch has saturated the fabric, toss in dryer, and iron with steam.

I also starch the top using several layers of spray starch. Starch stabilizes fabric so it is much less likely to pucker or distort.

The above works for me because I use cotton batting and 505 basting spray. It may not work if you use polyester batting, especially if you are using a brand other than 505 for the spray. There have been reports of the layers not sticking together when the batting is not cotton, especially if not using 505.

Edit: And, whether you use basting spray or glue, it's a good idea to have on hand a yardstick so that you can smooth the fabric from the center to the edges as you work.

Edit2: I re-read your post and just want to make sure that you are basting only half of a side at a time. That is, after laying the backing over the fabric, you need to (1) peel back the backing halfway, (2) spray baste the half of the batting that is exposed, (3) smooth the peeled backing half over the batting, using the yardstick to help you smooth from the middle out to the edge. You repeat this procedure for the other half of the backing. Then use the same procedure after flipping the batting over to add the top.

Just want to make sure you are not spray basting the entire batting, then trying to smooth the entire backing or top over the batting. This makes the process much more difficult.

Edit3: I also want to add that, for glue, one of the best suggestions I have seen is to use a small painter's tray and a foam painter's roller to apply the glue. Dilute it by half with water, place in paint tray, dip foam roller in water and wring out well, then use the roller to apply glue to the batting. Remember you do not have to cover the entire surface of the batting! You can simply criss-cross. This allows you to apply a small amount of glue (which is all that is needed) but to apply it evenly. If you happen to get a gob, just roll over it to spread it out.

Prissnboot

Hello all, and thank you very much for your helpful replies, especially to Prism99 for the starch hint. I will definitely try this method, it seems like it would be the best for me. When I lay the batting down, I lay the backing on top of it, then fold the backing in half on top of itself, spray about 8-10" of adhesive spray from edge to edge, and then smooth the backing over the adhesive sprayed section. Wash, rinse and repeat to end of fabric, then I go to the opposite end and repeat the process. I then flip this over so the other side of the batting is facing up and then put the quilt top over it and do the same process. Next time I baste a quilt, I will starch the heck out of it. I use the liquid starch and dilute it 1:1 with filtered water, and dry iron. I use mainly muslin for my quilt backings, I can get it on sale or with a coupon for $1 a yard. I say many times that quilting is NOT a cheap sport!

Speaking of quilting not being cheap, I'd best get back to my day job so I can afford to keep quilting! I can't wait to hear what other helpful tips show up.

Thanks,
Gina

Prism99

Wash, rinse and repeat??? Sounds like you are doing everything correctly, except I don't understand the wash, rinse and repeat part.

I think you will be happy with the heavy starching.

mckwilter

I have back and knee problems, so can't bend over for long periods of time or get on my knees, so I spray baste my wallhangings on my design wall. I cover the wall with a sheet, then pin the backing on the design wall. I spray with the adhesive, then place the batting on top of the backing and pin the batting to the wall. Smooth everything down, then spray the batting and place the top on the batting and pin the top to the wall. Once again, smooth everything down. I haven't tried this with a full-size quilt yet, but for wallhangings, table runners, etc., it works great. Also, are you FMQ with a hopping foot or quilting with a walking foot. I've never had a problem with tucks when I use my walking foot.

mtkoldra

I found that basting on my kitchen island is so much easier then on the floor, I mark the center and sides center just to help if the backing is only 2-4 inches bigger, when the quilt hangs over it actually helps to keep the fabric smooth, I then pin it with a long pins plus cut up pencil erasers. it works for me

pocoellie

Although I have a fairly large cutting table, it's not nearly big enough for my quilts usually. I lay my backing on the cutting table(centered) and then use masking tape, usually starting at the top or bottom, then go to the opposite end and "pull" and tape so that it's taut, I will do the same on the sides except I don't pull it, just tape it so that the wrinkles are mostly gone, I don't usually have problems with wrinkles/tucks. I also starch anything I'm going to be working with, a minimum of 2 hours before I work with them.

AFQSinc

I spray baste all of my quilts on my bed. I use an old fitted sheet that I put over my bed and then on top of that I have an old duvet cover that I don't use anymore. Then I take my well starched and pressed backing and lay it down. Using T-pins I lightly secure the backing just to give it a little tension to ensure that there are no puckers and then I lay my batting down and then my top. Unless it is a windy day I open the window and start. I have no problems with overspray or any glue or anything getting on the furniture or floor or anywhere it shouldn't. Since I began spray basting I have stopped dreading quilting. I've not had any puckers or wrinkles and no pain in my back or knees.

AngeliaNR

This is also how I do it, though I often use poly batting and have had no trouble with it. I've also found that, as with so many things, practice helps. I've done a bunch of quilts this summer, and each one has been easier than the last. Too long a break between them makes it harder for me to remember the best way to do it.