Best invisible thread??
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Highlands Ranch, CO
Posts: 391
Best invisible thread??
What is the best invisible thread? My Horizon's tension has a nervous breakdown with the stuff. I can do a sample piece and get the tension right. Then after FMQ for a little bit, it tangles and "eyelashes" like crazy. I've tried a couple different brands, Sulky is one of them. I use a cone holder to let the thread relax a bit before it gets to the machine. And I use a metalic needle with a large eye. Any help would be really appreciated.
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I use YLI nylon filament, and have had none of the problems people warn about. Have occasionally tried other types of invisible thread and don't find them as "invisible" as the YLI.
Mine is on a cone. I use a thread net on the cone and place it in a jar behind the machine. I use an "outrigger" -- just a stick with a hole on each end. One hole goes over the thread spool holder; the thread goes through the other hole.
I use only metal bobbins; plastic bobbins are more likely to distort. When winding, I wind slowly to minimize the stretching of the thread and I fill the bobbin only 3/4ths full to make sure it does not distort the ends of the bobbin.
Are you loosening the upper tension? I don't know how much polyester threads stretch, but the nylon stretches quite a bit, and this requires loosening the upper tension.
Edit: I should add that I no longer FMQ with this thread, simply because I have found I prefer using Aurifil 50wt variegated for most projects. I still use the YLI for invisible machine applique, however; have never found an invisible thread that works better, and I have tried several.
Mine is on a cone. I use a thread net on the cone and place it in a jar behind the machine. I use an "outrigger" -- just a stick with a hole on each end. One hole goes over the thread spool holder; the thread goes through the other hole.
I use only metal bobbins; plastic bobbins are more likely to distort. When winding, I wind slowly to minimize the stretching of the thread and I fill the bobbin only 3/4ths full to make sure it does not distort the ends of the bobbin.
Are you loosening the upper tension? I don't know how much polyester threads stretch, but the nylon stretches quite a bit, and this requires loosening the upper tension.
Edit: I should add that I no longer FMQ with this thread, simply because I have found I prefer using Aurifil 50wt variegated for most projects. I still use the YLI for invisible machine applique, however; have never found an invisible thread that works better, and I have tried several.
Last edited by Prism99; 07-30-2012 at 09:21 AM.
#3
What is the best invisible thread? My Horizon's tension has a nervous breakdown with the stuff. I can do a sample piece and get the tension right. Then after FMQ for a little bit, it tangles and "eyelashes" like crazy. I've tried a couple different brands, Sulky is one of them. I use a cone holder to let the thread relax a bit before it gets to the machine. And I use a metalic needle with a large eye. Any help would be really appreciated.
The cone holder and letting it relax before it gets to the machine is the problem. You need to put invisible thread upright so it feeds off the side of the spool. When you feed it off the end of the cone it twists and it loosens the thread on the cone and lets it start pooling around the cone.
#4
I haven't used any in a while, but I did prefer the poly to nylon. It seemed more supple, but that may have just been the brand I was using. I used small spools, placed without any support in a coffee cup behind the sewing machine. I don't remember doing anything else special for this thread, and I don't remember using it at all in the bobbin.
#5
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 10,590
Have you considered invisfil?
http://www.softexpressions.com/softw...ads/WNInvF.php
It is not a clear monofiliment but it is so fine, it is like silk and sinks right into the fabric.
http://www.softexpressions.com/softw...ads/WNInvF.php
It is not a clear monofiliment but it is so fine, it is like silk and sinks right into the fabric.
#8
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 17,858
Being that you have a Janome ... do you have the blue dot bobbin case? and are you using their FMQ foot (not the darning foot)? Both are add-ons that would not come with your machine, but are well worth the investment. I don't know if they will help with your invisible thread, but the blue dot is for tension issues, and the special foot is definitely a breeze for FMQ in comparison to the standard darning foot.
I'd also suggest you talk with your dealer and ask for their suggestions/solutions to your problems.
Ditto to the 100 wt Invisafil ... Or if you want a little more thickness then get their 80 wt DecoBob thread. Both are almost invisable and do a really nice job.
I'd also suggest you talk with your dealer and ask for their suggestions/solutions to your problems.
Ditto to the 100 wt Invisafil ... Or if you want a little more thickness then get their 80 wt DecoBob thread. Both are almost invisable and do a really nice job.
#9
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 9,312
I use lots of invisable thread . I do like the invisble from Superior thread. Contrary to what many use... I find I have the best sucess with the smallest needle 70/10. The thread is so fine there is not much need for a big needle. Letting the thread relax is important for sucess as well. Just last night I was using some on a spool and not a cone... I set the spool a good 6 inches from the machine and let it feed. Most machines work best with invisable when the upper thread tension is loosened, each machine will have its own "adjustment" factor .. so do have a sample sandwich to fine tune the tension.
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