KyKaren1949

I just Googled Sewing Machine seam guide and found where to order several of these. Then, I happened across some in Wal-Mart for about $1. I bought a bunch to share with friends.

Pilgrim

If you are just making quilts for yourself then you don't have to worry if 1/4" is exact. As long as you do them all alike it will work out in the end. If you are doing blocks to trade then you will have to make sure it is 1/4". I used tape and credit card like Bonnie Hunter suggests and I have top load bobbin. I have to remove and replace to put in bobbin but I have to check each time to make sure I put it back exactly right.

My time

Reading all these posts brings up a question. If your 1/4 inch seams are a few threads more or less wider or narrower, than a 1/4 what difference would it make so long as you keeping using the same seam allowance throughout your project? I mean I understand if it was 1/3 of an inch of more. Just wondering if anyone else had this thought?

charsuewilson

I have a top drop-in bobbin and I use a piece of tape, cut so the bobbin cover can be removed. It doesn't last as long as if you have a different type bobbin, though, because the edge of the tape comes unstuck.

Wonnie

Have a Baby Lock Quilters Choice........the feed dogs are actually larger than any of the feet and the 1/4" mark goes right through them. Don't know about other machines...is this the standard? The 1/4" marking in the back is not visible as it sits right smack in the middle of the rear of any of my feet. And from the back of the throat plate to the edge of the rear machine bed there is less than a 1/4". My needle can only move to the left or right with no variations in between. If I use the 1/4" foot it only has one small hole which can only be used with the needle in the right hand position and since the machine defaults to the left when switched on I frequently forget and break my needles. Does anyone else have these problems and how did you solve it?

QultingaddictUK

I would recommend a 1/4" foot but a GOOD one, something like this http://www.amazon.com/Distinctive-Qu.../dp/B003QCOYFG which has the edge guide. Also you don't say what machine you have and whether you have a needle position feature on it, that can make one heck of a difference making life so much easier Hope you find something that works for you soon as I know it can be so frustrating.

bizzibee

From ABOUT QUILTING.COM Here is a very good way to check to see that you are actually sewing a 1/4" seam: Test Your Seam Allowance

Let's set up your sewing machine to sew an exact quarter inch seam, the standard seam allowance used for quilts. Once you've mastered a quarter inch seam, your blocks will have units with sharp points and crisp corners, and they'll go together easily when it's time to assemble the block or quilt.
Some patterns will tell you to sew a 'scant quarter inch seam allowance.' When you see the term used, make the seam allowance about a pencil-line's width narrower than 1/4" (a scant seam is sometimes necessary for patches to fit together just right, see page 5). Be sure to brush up on your rotary cutting skills and learn important pressing techniques before you begin.
Materials to Test Seam Allowances

• Rotary cutter, mat and 24-inch rotary ruler
• Iron and ironing board
• Sewing machine with a quarter-inch presser foot; use the standard foot if you do not have a quarter-inch foot
• 2 light fabric strips, each 2" x 4"
• 1 dark fabric strip, 2" x 4" [h=3]Let's Test the Seam Allowance[/h]
  1. Install a quarter-inch or standard presser foot on your sewing machine. If using a standard presser foot, try to determine which vertical groove on the machine's throat plate is equal to a 1/4" seam allowance.
  2. Align a a 2" x 4" light strip with a 2" x 4" dark strip, right sides together and edges carefully matched.
  3. Sew the patches together lengthwise, feeding them through the machine with the 1/4" presser foot's right edge aligned exactly with the right edge of the patches. For a standard foot, align edges with the mark for 1/4".
  4. Sew another light strip to the opposite edge of the dark strip.
  5. Press seams allowances toward the dark strip.
  6. Use a rotary ruler to measure the dark center strip. It should be exactly 1-1/2" wide along its entire length. The outer strips should be exactly 1-3/4" wide along their entire lengths.
  If the dimensions of your pieced unit are accurate -- congratulations! You're ready to sew a quilt.

lynndianne

At one of Bonnie Hunters classes I asked her about the quarter inch foot. She said she has one but ripped the little metal piece off of it as it wasn't accurate.

Lynn

Sandygirl

I perfected my 1/4" seam by doing the Eleanor Burns sewing "test" . Even with a quarter inch foot, I still needed to move my needle to the right to get that perfect seam. I wrote the needle position n my machine so as not to forget the setting. My blocks improved greatly by doing this test. It should be on her website.

sandy

tessagin

I just use the edge of a sticky note. The sticky part is 1/4". No big deal to me if I have change it. You can always purchase foot with the 1/4" guide also.