Binding corners
#1
Binding corners
When I attach my binding I use 2 1/2 inch strips. I sew my binding with a 1/4 inch seam and when I get to the corner I stop 1/4 inch and do my turn and miter. When I sew my binding by hand on the back if I wrap it around snug the binding is narrower on the top and wider on the back. I would like to sew my binding on with a 3/8 inch seam so that the quilt edge fills in the binding. My question is if I use a 3/8 inch seam do I stop 3/8 inch when I get to the corner? Thanks for any help.
#2
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 41,548
I do my double fold binding 2 and 1/4 and use a slightly larger than 1/4 inch seams to do the front. I do stop the same distance from the corner as the amount of the binding on the front. If you want 3/8 to show on the front than you will want to stop at 3/8 from the corner.
#4
I use a 3/8" seam allowance because I use my walking foot to attach my binding. The answer to your question is YES you would stop 3/8" from the corner and then fold your miter. The rule is you stop whatever distance your seam allowance is. I make my bindings 2 1/4" wide, fold them and then use a 3/8" seam allowance which fills up the binding, makes the binding a little wider on the back but not much. You want the binding wide enough in the back to cover your stitching from sewing it on the front. Mine does just that. I don't press my binding before I put it on. I find that it rolls to the back easier and more neatly this way and it is easier to hide my hand stitching in the fold. I also stitch around the edge of my quilt close to the edge to hold the layers together before I attach my binding. I actually stitch around the edge of my quilt before I trim away the excess batting and back but after the quilt is quilted.
#6
I use a 3/8" seam allowance because I use my walking foot to attach my binding. The answer to your question is YES you would stop 3/8" from the corner and then fold your miter. The rule is you stop whatever distance your seam allowance is. I make my bindings 2 1/4" wide, fold them and then use a 3/8" seam allowance which fills up the binding, makes the binding a little wider on the back but not much. You want the binding wide enough in the back to cover your stitching from sewing it on the front. Mine does just that. I don't press my binding before I put it on. I find that it rolls to the back easier and more neatly this way and it is easier to hide my hand stitching in the fold. I also stitch around the edge of my quilt close to the edge to hold the layers together before I attach my binding. I actually stitch around the edge of my quilt before I trim away the excess batting and back but after the quilt is quilted.
#7
No matter how wide I want my binding, I stitch ¼" from the edge of the quilt top and stop that far from the corner of the raw fabric edge (not the corner of the batting) for the miters. The difference is I leave more batting/backing for the wider bindings so it's always full and even on both front and back.
If you stitch further into the quilt top than ¼" you lose points and other design details. I measure from the binding stitching line after it's sewn on the front and do the final batting trim to accomodate the binding width I want for that particular quilt. It works perfectly every time and guarantees full, even bindings.
If you stitch further into the quilt top than ¼" you lose points and other design details. I measure from the binding stitching line after it's sewn on the front and do the final batting trim to accomodate the binding width I want for that particular quilt. It works perfectly every time and guarantees full, even bindings.
Last edited by ghostrider; 05-18-2014 at 10:57 AM.
#8
Power Poster
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 19,127
If you are hand stitching the binding to the back, you don't need to cut 2.5". Try cutting your binding 2.25". Normally, the people who finish their binding by machine need that extra 1/4 of an inch. Yes, if you want 3/8" you need to stitch to the corner an 1/8 of an inch earlier.
#9
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,148
If you stitch further into the quilt top than ¼" you lose points and other design details. I measure from the binding stitching line after it's sewn on the front and do the final batting trim to accomodate the binding width I want for that particular quilt. It works perfectly every time and guarantees full, even bindings.
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