Binding Question: I need help
#11
Just hand sew it...that happen to me also when I handed sewed my son's. If you decide you don't want to keep that binding. Just use the seamripper and begin over .I machine sew bindings only now. So much easier. Also make sure you wash the material first. Other wise it does shink and pulls...I also sew the outside of my quilts before binding it. and when i sew on a border I sew it twice. After working hard on quilts I am learning the the extra work is worh it.
#12
There are lots of solutions here, but I don't think you could ever make a binding too thick - it gets the most wear and the thicker the better! Having double bindings - why not? You may be onto something.
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,134
Originally Posted by chuckbere15
My question/solution is would it be okay to put another binding over the existing binding making the new binding bigger? The original binding started out with a 2 1/4 inch strip. If I wanted a 1 inch binding on the front, how big to make the strip? What is the distance to sew on the new binding? And how far to stop sewing at the corner to get a perfect miter corner.
You would cut your binding strips 6.25" (or maybe even 6.5" if you're keeping the old binding on). Folding the strips in half would give you 3.125". You would sew the bindings to the front 1" from the edge of the quilt, turn the binding to the back and sew it down as you normally would.
For the mitered corners, you would stop 1" from the edge of the quilt (it will always be the same measurement as whatever the finished binding width is on the side you're sewing). You will also get a lovely miter on the back as well that will be the same as the front.
You could have, if you wanted to, cut the strips narrower, and had a larger binding on the front then in the back (or visa versa), but you didn't say you wanted to do that. Again, the math is pretty simple - just add the binding widths you want on the front and back, and triple it plus 1/4" (to 1/2") to accommodate the folding and turn to the back of the quilt. It also makes the binding on the back a tad wider, if you wanted to sew in down by machine from the front.
Now, with all that said, that's a big chunk of material around all edges. It can feel AND look very heavy (especially if you're not removing the previous binding).
Plus, depending on your design, a 1" binding can chop of a whole mess of star points. I'm not sure that it's the best choice.
I'm sure not sure why you don't want to remove the current binding and resew it on. Pics would help. I've done this many times when I went back and redid my earlier pathetic attempts - it's really not that big of a deal. A bit time consuming but what isn't. ;-)
Good luck!
#14
If you add a patch to that area, and then add others around the edges it would look planned :wink:
If you want to make the binding wider, take a scrap 6 1/2" wide, fold it, press and then pin baste it to the quilt in the same manner that you would sew it. See if that is what you want, you can trim it down until you get it where you want it.
As to where you stop sewing, if you use a 1/4" seam, you stop 1/4" from the ends.
If you use a 1/2" seam, you would stop 1/2" from the end :D:D:D
If you want to make the binding wider, take a scrap 6 1/2" wide, fold it, press and then pin baste it to the quilt in the same manner that you would sew it. See if that is what you want, you can trim it down until you get it where you want it.
As to where you stop sewing, if you use a 1/4" seam, you stop 1/4" from the ends.
If you use a 1/2" seam, you would stop 1/2" from the end :D:D:D
#15
I really appreciate the help. It has been most educating.
Some question why I could not remove and reattach, at the very end on the stitch line, some of the fabric pulled away. I did not want to remove the original as I use 1.5mm stitch length and that would be a bear to try and remove. This was my bad as when I squared up the quilt with the batting, backing and top there was a little of the batting and backing sticking out farther than the top. Next time I will trim so all three layers are the same. This was the first time that I applied actual binding to a quilt as I usually just roll the backing onto the front.
I did apply the second wider binding over the existing binding. It turned out great. If you did not know that there were two bindings on the quilt you would just think that the binding is stuffed to the gills.
Again, I can not thank everyone with their knowledge and ideas on how to resolve this dilemma. It work!!! And the quilt is finished. Well almost, I have to remove the loose threads and put my label on.
Thank You!!! Thank You!!! Thank You!!! Thank You!!! Thank You!!!
Some question why I could not remove and reattach, at the very end on the stitch line, some of the fabric pulled away. I did not want to remove the original as I use 1.5mm stitch length and that would be a bear to try and remove. This was my bad as when I squared up the quilt with the batting, backing and top there was a little of the batting and backing sticking out farther than the top. Next time I will trim so all three layers are the same. This was the first time that I applied actual binding to a quilt as I usually just roll the backing onto the front.
I did apply the second wider binding over the existing binding. It turned out great. If you did not know that there were two bindings on the quilt you would just think that the binding is stuffed to the gills.
Again, I can not thank everyone with their knowledge and ideas on how to resolve this dilemma. It work!!! And the quilt is finished. Well almost, I have to remove the loose threads and put my label on.
Thank You!!! Thank You!!! Thank You!!! Thank You!!! Thank You!!!
#17
Click the link below to see pictures of the finished quilt.
http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-113238-1.htm#2939603
http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-113238-1.htm#2939603
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