Binding
#2
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sturbridge, Ma
Posts: 3,992
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If you want a wider binding - say 1/2" then you have to adjust your cut binding acordingly - probably 2 3/4" or even 3"
The width of your cut binding is in diret relation to the widgh of your seam. Do a small test piece to see what you need before cutting the entire binding and applying to quilt Fullness of the batting can make a difference as well as thickness of the fabric and even the weight of the thread. You have to account for folds.
The width of your cut binding is in diret relation to the widgh of your seam. Do a small test piece to see what you need before cutting the entire binding and applying to quilt Fullness of the batting can make a difference as well as thickness of the fabric and even the weight of the thread. You have to account for folds.
#6
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Piedmont Virginia in the Foothills of the Blue Ridge Mtns.
Posts: 8,562
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I cut bindings at 2 and 3/4" for quilts where I am machine finishing the binding. I sew these to the back of the quilt, turn to the front, and machine sew down.
For hand finished bindings I cut the strips at 2 and 1/2". These I sew to the front and hand stitch on the back.
Jan in VA
For hand finished bindings I cut the strips at 2 and 1/2". These I sew to the front and hand stitch on the back.
Jan in VA
#7
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Lately I've been doing a faux piped binding. It allows me to machine finish it while hiding the stitches. Cut the binding color @ 1 1/2" and the piping color @ 1 3/4". Miter the piping pieces together into one long piece and repeat with the binding pieces (whatever length you would normally make for the binding for that quilt). Then sew the piping and the binding right sides together along one of the long edges. You'll now have a faux piped binding that is 2 3/4" wide. Press toward binding color. Fold in half wrong sides together and press as you normally would press your binding. One side will be completely the piping color and the other side will be the binding color with about 1/8" of the piping color peeking over the fold. Sew to the BACK of the quilt with BINDING side DOWN (as you would normally sew your binding). Turn over to the front and stitch in the ditch along the piping/binding seam. I suggest using a thread that matches your piping color. It makes the stitching nearly invisible.
#9
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 15,639
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I just put binding on my DP9 yesterday. I cut it at 2.5" and folded it in half. I trimmed my backing 1/4" past the quilt top. When I sewed the binding strips with a 1/4" seam aligned with the top, I had 1/4" extra to "beef up" the batting. I do not use the continuous binding method, rather I use a double-mitered binding. I machine stitch the front and hand-stitch the back. It came out dang near perfect.
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