Binding
#11
Originally Posted by spinnergs
I do a French binding (double fold) and cut it 2 1/4" wide. I press it in half and sew the raw edge to the raw edge of the quilt after I have squared the quilt up. You can sew it from the front or back, then I hand stitch it down on the opposite side.
#16
Originally Posted by spinnergs
I do a French binding (double fold) and cut it 2 1/4" wide. I press it in half and sew the raw edge to the raw edge of the quilt after I have squared the quilt up. You can sew it from the front or back, then I hand stitch it down on the opposite side.
#18
Originally Posted by Prism99
Here's a Youtube video that demonstrates how to attach a binding:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buCKs-Fgvb4
I do think cutting the strips 2" wide is a little on the narrow side. I prefer 2-1/4".
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buCKs-Fgvb4
I do think cutting the strips 2" wide is a little on the narrow side. I prefer 2-1/4".
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Daphne, AL
Posts: 124
There is a video tutorial that should help you a great deal. Type in "free instructions, quilt binding" and click on the 5th website "Sewing Quilt Bindings: How to Quilt/eHow.com."
Very clear instructions. You can replay it until it "clicks."
I always cut my fabric 2 1/2" as I prefer using a 3/8" seam to sew on my binding. Just feel that it is more secure and allows for an occasional wobble.
Very clear instructions. You can replay it until it "clicks."
I always cut my fabric 2 1/2" as I prefer using a 3/8" seam to sew on my binding. Just feel that it is more secure and allows for an occasional wobble.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 660
[quote=I always cut my fabric 2 1/2" as I prefer using a 3/8" seam to sew on my binding. Just feel that it is more secure and allows for an occasional wobble.[/quote]
Thank you to Peggy for noting that she sews her cut 2-1/2" binding with a 3/8" seam allowance - not 1/4". I've been trying to teach my guild members that 2-1/2" is way too wide if you are sewing 1/4" seams - leaves too much on the backside and can be difficult to miter.
The "magic" number is to multiply your seam allowance times 6 and add a bit depending on the batting. With this math and 1/4" seams I cut my binding 1-3/4" (that's 1/4" x 6 = 1-1/2" plus 1/4" for batt) and it comes out just fine. Sounds scarey I know, but with a flat batt (like Warm & Natural or Quilter's Dream Request) it works just fine. Gives a nice tight binding when hand sewn. OK, 2" will work, too. And there is no problem with sewing a larger than 1/4" seam for binding.
My suggestion is to try making a few samples with differing cut bindings and seam allowances. Did you now that there are antique quilts with 1/8" binding? It's amazing to me how they did that 150 years ago without all our "toys" - not even electricity!
OK, time to stop rambling - hope y'all find this helpful.
Sandy in Mooresville, NC
Thank you to Peggy for noting that she sews her cut 2-1/2" binding with a 3/8" seam allowance - not 1/4". I've been trying to teach my guild members that 2-1/2" is way too wide if you are sewing 1/4" seams - leaves too much on the backside and can be difficult to miter.
The "magic" number is to multiply your seam allowance times 6 and add a bit depending on the batting. With this math and 1/4" seams I cut my binding 1-3/4" (that's 1/4" x 6 = 1-1/2" plus 1/4" for batt) and it comes out just fine. Sounds scarey I know, but with a flat batt (like Warm & Natural or Quilter's Dream Request) it works just fine. Gives a nice tight binding when hand sewn. OK, 2" will work, too. And there is no problem with sewing a larger than 1/4" seam for binding.
My suggestion is to try making a few samples with differing cut bindings and seam allowances. Did you now that there are antique quilts with 1/8" binding? It's amazing to me how they did that 150 years ago without all our "toys" - not even electricity!
OK, time to stop rambling - hope y'all find this helpful.
Sandy in Mooresville, NC
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