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    Old 03-26-2015, 05:58 AM
      #21  
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    When the tabletop was cut it changed the weight disbursement and design of the table. You might look at the brackets or mounts used in holding your shelf. Also what did you use to make your shelf with? Sometimes using a lighter shelving product is not the way to go. Because your table can lose some balance and stability. It might be as simple as adding a little weight to the shelf (try duct taping a wrench to the bottom of the shelf and then sew something fast, see if you still have all the movement).
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    Old 03-26-2015, 06:42 AM
      #22  
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    My first thought was the "shelf" was not 100% level, so add padding!
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    Old 03-26-2015, 07:10 AM
      #23  
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    My Viking Rose sets on a lowered sewing machine cabinet shelf. If it bounces, it's telling me to slow down.
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    Old 03-26-2015, 07:21 AM
      #24  
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    My Viking Rose sets on a lowered sewing machine cabinet shelf. If it bounces, it's telling me to slow down.
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    Old 03-26-2015, 08:18 AM
      #25  
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    Just looking at your shelf, it is not supported in the middle/back. I had this problem with the 6 foot "church tables" in quilt classes...it seemed I was the one that was in the middle of the table. My machine jumped all over the place when sewing fast, or fmq. I purchased an expansion rod....sort of like a shower curtain rod, that when depressed you could slide it under the table...release it under where the machine was. It gave great support under the machine and the bouncing stopped. Someone borrowed it from me and never returned it....I have looked for the exact same rod. I think I will check into the dowel rod....it would have to be cut to the standard height of a "church banquet table"...
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    Old 03-26-2015, 08:41 AM
      #26  
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    I know the back is thin...but have hubby drive a few finish nails through the backing, into the edge of the shelf (I'd predrill, as the particle board is easy to damage, and a bugger to nail into). This will help a lot. The dowel from floor to center edges of the shelf will help also. One on each side...your metal brackets act like a spring to some extent...and abouncin' your machine will go...just like kids on a bed.
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    Old 03-26-2015, 10:18 AM
      #27  
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    Thanks ... and it won't be hubby LOL it's going to be me ... no hubby in my life hahahaha

    I had a friend do what I wanted (and he did EXACTLY what I asked) ... I just didn't think of the consequences ... hahahaha
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    Old 03-26-2015, 10:29 AM
      #28  
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    It is a really nice sewing table. Sorry about the vibration problem.
    Part of the problem may the material the shelf is made of. In the picture it looks like a laminated MDF (ready made shelving available at most hardware stores), which is prone to saging. Any moisture in the air will collect in the unfinished part of the shelf and change the dimensions. I suggest that you replace the shelf with solid wood, or a fully laminated shelf (also readily available at most hardware stores such as HomeDepot). If you use a laminated shelf and have to cut it, be sure to paint or seal the cut so that moisture cannot get into it. Also, use a level and made sure the shelf is level.
    Good luck.
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    Old 03-26-2015, 12:03 PM
      #29  
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    I thought mine was super sturdy too, but even with extra boards under I would get shake. I ended up wedging a pole in there, and now it's only shakes if I go SUPER fast.
    The pole is small, probably 3/4" across but it makes a big difference.
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    Old 03-26-2015, 12:19 PM
      #30  
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    Originally Posted by DebraK
    I wonder if that non slip material that is put under area rugs would help with the bouncing. maybe that little bit of cushion and traction would keep things stable. Probably nonsense, but it is the first thing that popped into my head.
    I have two old mouse pads that I use under my less expensive, bouncy machine. Works great! No vibration, no bounce.
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