Diagonal Joins

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08-25-2016, 03:50 AM

#21

Momala24

Junior Member

Join Date: Nov 2012

Posts: 178

I check with my ruler to make sure the two ends are at 90* to each othe, pin to hold in place, use a ruler to draw the diagonal and sew slowly.

08-25-2016, 05:02 AM

#22

patchwork

Junior Member

Join Date: Sep 2011

Location: Washington

Posts: 196

When I cut my binding strips, I lay them on my table with all the folds at one side. ( Strips folded like I cut them off the fabric) Put 3 strips together and use my ruler 45 degree angle on the open ends and cut. All the angles are cut for you. It even works if the fabric is stripes or directional. Fast and easy.

08-25-2016, 06:29 AM

#23

AZ Jane

Super Member

Join Date: Feb 2012

Location: Phoenix, AZ

Posts: 2,876

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tartan

I usually cross my strips with a little extra on each end. That lets me sew from V valley to valley for a nice join. I also have a piece of painters tape on the bed of my machine with a straight line drawn on with a sharpie. If I keep the little V valley on the line opposite from the needle, I can sew a straight join without marking.

EXACTLY what I do! Works every time, the overlap and the tape on the bed of the machine!!

08-25-2016, 06:41 AM

#24

csknott

Junior Member

Join Date: Sep 2014

Location: deep east Texas

Posts: 146

This is the way I do it but not with index card. Thanks for that tip.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rryder

I overlap them just a bit, pin on each side of the diagonal (place them parallel to the diagonal and far enough from it so they won't get sewn over), then lay an index card along the diagonal and mark it. The index card is flexible enough that it won't wobble when you lay it over the pins like a ruler will, but the edge is sturdy enough that you can mark a nice straight line with it. Then sew along the mark, leaving the pins in place until done. Works well for me.

Sometimes there is a little bit of discrepancy but as long as it's smaller than your seam allowance it won't show.

Rob
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08-25-2016, 06:54 AM

#25

duckydo

Super Member

Join Date: May 2009

Location: Pleasant Hill MO

Posts: 1,669

Jenny Doan, has a video on u tube that makes it come out perfect every time... That is the only way I put binding on. You will be so proud of yourself.

08-25-2016, 07:27 AM

#26

Quilter 65

Super Member

Join Date: Jan 2012

Location: NE Missouri

Posts: 6,418

I line them up on my cutting mat using the edges of the strip. The ends are 90 angles. Pin and mark and sew. Have tried so hard doing it the other ways, but this is how I get the most consistent results that are pleasing to me.

08-25-2016, 11:42 AM

#27

Jingle

Power Poster

Join Date: Dec 2009

Location: Outside St. Louis

Posts: 38,213

I lay my strips to allow for a 1/4" at each end. I still draw a line from V to V. If I get off a bit I trim it off to be same width as the rest of the binding.

08-25-2016, 04:09 PM

#28

Fabric Galore

Super Member

Join Date: Jan 2011

Location: Central FL

Posts: 1,478

Years ago when I first started quilting I bought a book by Georgia Bonesteel and I loved her directions for joining the binding. I leave about a 6" tail on the binding when I start stitching and when I come within 6" of the finish of the binding I lock the stitches. unfold the beginning of the binding and fold the full width of the binding at a 45 degree angle and crease the seam. Lay the beginning of the binding on top of the open tail end of the binding and draw a thin line where the beginning binding ends. Subtract 1/2" from this line for seam allowances and place the beginning tail perpendicular to the tail end matching the second marking 1/2" from the meeting place and sew. When you fold the binding and stitch it in place you can't tell whether the seam is perfect or not.