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  • Differences between the Singer 500 and the Singer 503 machines

  • Differences between the Singer 500 and the Singer 503 machines

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    Old 01-22-2013, 04:23 PM
      #41  
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    If you take the fiber gear off (remove the cir-clip with cir-clip pliers and a flat screwdriver), there's a spring and some grease under there. The locating pin from the fiber gear goes in one of the spring ends (round hole) you can tell which by the lack of grease. When it's properly assembled, you'll feel that spring and snap action that you do when you turn the fiber gear either way on a healthy handwheel.

    Did that with the rescue 401 and then reassembled incorrectly. Wow that sounds horrible!

    That stuff under there seems to have something to do with the lash of the fiber gear when the motor stops or starts. Maybe it's working wrong? I don't strictly understand how that part works, only the basics. I find it very strange that another wheel wouldn't fit.... I think you're in the right area... If you need, I'll disassemble again and post a couple of pics.

    As for smells: Light oil is OK. Unused motor too. Any "heat smells" (I don't know if that makes sense, there are certain smells I associate with heat), or weird rubber like, etc smells would be bad, but also a clue. I'm trying to think of what could be dragging only after a few seconds of use. No change in sound of the machine other than the motor?

    Rest up your shoulder. Maybe when you come back to it, something will jump out at you.
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    Old 01-22-2013, 04:28 PM
      #42  
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    I know what you mean about heat smells - no heat smell - just an oil smell.
    I'll get a look at that thing in a few days.
    This doesn't sound real bad - it just slows down or goes slow with the load.
    I've never taken that balance wheel gear apart - I should do it on the parts machine first - it did not turn at all when I put it on the slow machine. I need to do some more looking some time. For now I need to get the ice out.
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    Old 01-22-2013, 10:12 PM
      #43  
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    K,.. here are DH's suggestions:
    1. We discussed the motors being swapped, so this might not be relevant: First place heat will start to be generated is in the bearing on top of the motor, is it lubed? - of course if you changed the gear and motor together, this is irrelevant, and I believe you did. It does seem like a bad / hot bearing type of thing though...
    2. Definitely take a peek behind the fiber gear. Because of the spring action, maybe it's malfunctioning somewhere.
    3. See if you can prove the shaft is bent, with a pencil and a piece of tape or something. See if the mark it leaves is "straight" or if it wobbles.

    I think that was all of them.

    Get some rest. We don't troubleshoot well when we're tired or sore. Sewing machines are like computers, they don't care if they're not 100%, we do.
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    Old 03-03-2013, 06:04 AM
      #44  
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    just for giggles... It is the upper deck of a Singer 600 - not very much different from a 401 or a 500 - it is the lower part that is different on these machines.
    This one was very gooped up - it is now clean and runs smooth - best one I've seen.
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]399423[/ATTACH]
    Attached Thumbnails odds-ends-february-004.jpg  
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    Old 03-23-2013, 03:16 PM
      #45  
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    Ok I did get the 401 working much faster. Something was gunked up in the feed dog/gear area I think. I oiled the begeebers out of it - applied heat - then I laid it on it's back and ran it full tilt. All of a sudden it took off! I think the heat made all the difference.
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    Old 03-24-2013, 02:32 PM
      #46  
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    Originally Posted by JudyTheSewer
    The cleanup on my 403A is probably as good as it will get. I looked in the machine to see if anything was gummed up Miriam but it looks really, really clean to me. I tri-flowed everything very well one day and went back the next day and did it again. I manually moved the needle bar back and forth until is seemed to be moving well by itself. However, it still didn't seem to zag to the right as far as it ought to. I checked the needle position by piercing a piece of paper to the left, center, and right. The zag does not go as far to the right of center as it does to the left of center. Oh well, LOTS better than before. It is about 1/10th as noisy from when I got it and it moves faster too. Since it did not come with any extra's I made a little padded, drawstring bag to hold the accessories I happened to have from a drawer in a White treadle cabinet. The quilting is done with the cams I have for the machine. I can do a total of 6 different stitches! I plan on hanging this bag on a knob or pin somewhere on the machine so that I have the attachments close at hand when I use my "new" machine.
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]389489[/ATTACH]
    I'm sorry I think we missed you in the shuffle. You do still have a problem. The needle should go all the way to the right. To get it to do that you will need to look:http://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f1...s-t160607.html maybe you will see there what you still need. It a little pin or plunger under the square thing - between it and the cam stack - it has some dried up oil in there. A drop or two of solvent should dissolve the dried up oil. Do protect the paint and yourself as mentioned in the above link.
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    Old 03-24-2013, 03:23 PM
      #47  
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    Any chance it needs to be "zeroed out"? like in the service manual?
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    Old 03-24-2013, 03:27 PM
      #48  
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    Originally Posted by ArchaicArcane
    Any chance it needs to be "zeroed out"? like in the service manual?
    what you mean 'zeroed out?'
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    Old 03-24-2013, 04:05 PM
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    In the service manual, there are references to zeroing out the camstack and for the needlebar.
    Page 140 - To Zero-Out the machine
    And the other one I was thinking of was timing the cam stack (138- 139),.. not relevant, I think
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    Old 03-24-2013, 04:11 PM
      #50  
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    I doubt if it is 'zeroed out' I've had it not move all the way to the right when I didn't clean the goop off those two zz pins - I think I hit it with Tri-Flow and it wasn't enough to get all the oil moving or something. I had to zap it with solvent - clean up good from that and re-oil it after it had time to dry a little.
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