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  • Disappointed in my Zigzag and Satin Stitch

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    Old 03-09-2014, 05:39 PM
      #31  
    Gay
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    If you notice the fabric is being pulled in under the satin stitch, fabric is too soft. There are several things to try. If doing applique use an iron-on backing, vliesofix, or even starch the fabrics. Note that dealers always use a double thickness of stiff fabric to demonstrate decorative stitches. There are also sticky-backed washaway stabilisers, [ I think this is the 'bees knees' of backings] Loosen top tension 2 or 3 clicks. If using decorative stitches on one layer of fabric I just use copy paper or w/away sticky. Hope this helps
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    Old 03-10-2014, 03:54 AM
      #32  
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    Are you using the right presser foot? I have Bernina machines and for a long time I thought the regular sewing foot was OK because it had the wide opening to do zig-zag stitches. They left much to be desired. When I asked a dealer/technician I was told to use a different presser foot because it has a channel on the bottom to go smoothly over the column of satin stitches. The result was perfect stitches. Thread weight and type need to be matched with needle size as well.
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    Old 03-10-2014, 06:19 AM
      #33  
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    Using a stabilizer makes a huge difference in my stitches during appliqué. I have many machines and they all require stabilizer to prevent "tunneling".
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    Old 03-10-2014, 07:47 AM
      #34  
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    Are all of you that are recommending stabilizer, referring to the fusible products, such as WonderUnder, heat n bond,etc for better results? Or are you suggesting additional tear away or cutaway products with the fusible? Would love a few more details on the technique you are referring to.Thanks
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    Old 03-10-2014, 09:42 AM
      #35  
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    Originally Posted by Mitch's mom
    If all else fails, a vintage Singer 237 portable from the early 70's makes a fabulous satin stitch. They can be found - usually in pretty good shape - for around 35.00 to 50.00.
    That was the first machine I purchased in 1971. Cost me $75 brand new. And mine still works just fine.

    I took a class to learn to make fabric bowls with the Timtex (the very stiff stabilizer), I was told to sew the seams on one side, using a longer (not wider) stitch length. You would still be able to see fabric between the stitches. Then turn the bowl over and go over all the seams, which would cover most of the fabric. Then turn the bowl over again and stitch a third time, which smoothed out all the rough edges and covered all the fabric. It was so much easier than using a shorter stitch length and trying to sew the seams just once.

    Last edited by mckwilter; 03-10-2014 at 09:47 AM.
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    Old 03-10-2014, 10:22 AM
      #36  
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    Mine got a lot better when started using stabilizer and embroidery needle's. Now I also use the embroidery thread and it looks a lot better.
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    Old 03-10-2014, 10:45 AM
      #37  
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    Since you have a dealer close to you take your machine in to them and have them show you how to get the perfect stitch. I know my dealer will spend time to do that happily. The want your business.
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    Old 03-10-2014, 11:35 AM
      #38  
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    We have an expert on machine applique in our guild. When she taught a class for us, she insisted that we play with the stitch width and stitch length adjustments on our machines until we got what we wanted. Then we were supposed to write them on paper and keep them nearby. Following her advice, I got better looking stitches than I had ever produced before. I have found that I sometimes have to make adjustments based on the thickness of the fabric or the number of layers with which I am working. I'm sure you have already made adjustments, but could be if you keep fiddling with your machine, you will finally hit it just right. If not, look at Janome machines. froggyintexas
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    Old 03-10-2014, 12:34 PM
      #39  
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    Originally Posted by FroggyinTexas
    We have an expert on machine applique in our guild. When she taught a class for us, she insisted that we play with the stitch width and stitch length adjustments on our machines until we got what we wanted. Then we were supposed to write them on paper and keep them nearby. Following her advice, I got better looking stitches than I had ever produced before. I have found that I sometimes have to make adjustments based on the thickness of the fabric or the number of layers with which I am working. I'm sure you have already made adjustments, but could be if you keep fiddling with your machine, you will finally hit it just right. If not, look at Janome machines. froggyintexas
    I've done all that. When I get it where I like it, I always write it down to use next time. But this machine has a lot of automatic adjustments (including presser foot pressure) and it tells you what foot to use based on the stitch you select. I just think it should make a nicer stitch than it does without so much fiddling with it. I can get the other stitches looking fine, just not the zigzag and satin. I'm generally working with cotton, always use stabilizer.
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    Old 03-10-2014, 02:02 PM
      #40  
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    I have the Viking Sapphire and have no trouble with my satin stitch or Zig-zag. Maybe my eyesight isn't as good as yours
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