Disappointed in my Zigzag and Satin Stitch
#31
Super Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: S.E. Queensland, Australia
Posts: 1,489
If you notice the fabric is being pulled in under the satin stitch, fabric is too soft. There are several things to try. If doing applique use an iron-on backing, vliesofix, or even starch the fabrics. Note that dealers always use a double thickness of stiff fabric to demonstrate decorative stitches. There are also sticky-backed washaway stabilisers, [ I think this is the 'bees knees' of backings] Loosen top tension 2 or 3 clicks. If using decorative stitches on one layer of fabric I just use copy paper or w/away sticky. Hope this helps
#32
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Heart of Colorado's majestic mountains!
Posts: 6,026
Are you using the right presser foot? I have Bernina machines and for a long time I thought the regular sewing foot was OK because it had the wide opening to do zig-zag stitches. They left much to be desired. When I asked a dealer/technician I was told to use a different presser foot because it has a channel on the bottom to go smoothly over the column of satin stitches. The result was perfect stitches. Thread weight and type need to be matched with needle size as well.
#34
Are all of you that are recommending stabilizer, referring to the fusible products, such as WonderUnder, heat n bond,etc for better results? Or are you suggesting additional tear away or cutaway products with the fusible? Would love a few more details on the technique you are referring to.Thanks
#35
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,198
I took a class to learn to make fabric bowls with the Timtex (the very stiff stabilizer), I was told to sew the seams on one side, using a longer (not wider) stitch length. You would still be able to see fabric between the stitches. Then turn the bowl over and go over all the seams, which would cover most of the fabric. Then turn the bowl over again and stitch a third time, which smoothed out all the rough edges and covered all the fabric. It was so much easier than using a shorter stitch length and trying to sew the seams just once.
Last edited by mckwilter; 03-10-2014 at 09:47 AM.
#38
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Here and there
Posts: 1,669
We have an expert on machine applique in our guild. When she taught a class for us, she insisted that we play with the stitch width and stitch length adjustments on our machines until we got what we wanted. Then we were supposed to write them on paper and keep them nearby. Following her advice, I got better looking stitches than I had ever produced before. I have found that I sometimes have to make adjustments based on the thickness of the fabric or the number of layers with which I am working. I'm sure you have already made adjustments, but could be if you keep fiddling with your machine, you will finally hit it just right. If not, look at Janome machines. froggyintexas
#39
We have an expert on machine applique in our guild. When she taught a class for us, she insisted that we play with the stitch width and stitch length adjustments on our machines until we got what we wanted. Then we were supposed to write them on paper and keep them nearby. Following her advice, I got better looking stitches than I had ever produced before. I have found that I sometimes have to make adjustments based on the thickness of the fabric or the number of layers with which I am working. I'm sure you have already made adjustments, but could be if you keep fiddling with your machine, you will finally hit it just right. If not, look at Janome machines. froggyintexas
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09-22-2011 10:33 AM