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    Old 10-10-2013, 02:30 AM
      #11  
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    I simply pin. No basting or glue here. When pinning intersections I put a pin straight up/down through the intersecting seams, top & bottom. Hold straight then put pins through both layers on either side of the up/down pin. Works for me. I do pin long seams fairly loose but sew slowly enough that I can wiggle edges as I go to get everything straight. Of course, it doesn't help when you forget to move the needle to the 1/4" setting on the machine! Make really nice seams the wrong size and have to rip and re-do. Grrr.
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    Old 10-10-2013, 02:57 AM
      #12  
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    Originally Posted by Jackie Spencer
    On a long row, I pin where my seams intersect, then sew those only, open it up and make sure everything is right, if its not, I don't have to rip out the whole thing, just that inter section. If its right, I can remove the pins and sew the whole thing.
    i like this idea... i think i'll try it on my next long row
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    Old 10-10-2013, 03:20 AM
      #13  
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    Originally Posted by Jackie Spencer
    On a long row, I pin where my seams intersect, then sew those only, open it up and make sure everything is right, if its not, I don't have to rip out the whole thing, just that inter section. If its right, I can remove the pins and sew the whole thing.
    Do you re-sew over that intersection when you get to it or stop and cut thread then start again?
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    Old 10-10-2013, 03:37 AM
      #14  
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    there's nothing wrong with basting your seams first.
    it is not a waste of time or effort if it helps you get the result you want.

    i use a variety of methods depending on how cooperative a top is as it goes together.
    the method Jackie Spencer mentioned is one i use often.
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    Old 10-10-2013, 04:03 AM
      #15  
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    I couldnt sew without my glue sticks! Keeps everything matched up.
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    Old 10-10-2013, 04:51 AM
      #16  
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    Originally Posted by Jackie Spencer
    On a long row, I pin where my seams intersect, then sew those only, open it up and make sure everything is right, if its not, I don't have to rip out the whole thing, just that inter section. If its right, I can remove the pins and sew the whole thing.
    I've done this too, where the intersections really need to hit right. I lengthen my stitch length during the basting run.
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    Old 10-10-2013, 05:15 AM
      #17  
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    Originally Posted by sandy l
    Do you re-sew over that intersection when you get to it or stop and cut thread then start again?
    I do that seam-match too - I baste inside the 1/4" line where the critical match-ups are on a long row, just an inch or so at each junction, then if it is right, just sew merrily along the whole length, easing it along.
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    Old 10-10-2013, 06:27 AM
      #18  
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    I don't usually baste blocks, but I have often basted rows. It is never a mistake to baste if that gets you the results you want. That said, try some of the different techniques suggested. I'm going to try the Elmers glue one. Sure wouldn't hurt and maybe will help.
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    Old 10-10-2013, 07:49 AM
      #19  
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    I only pin the intersections, put pin in on the side that needle goes into first. Machine can't push it out of place.
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    Old 10-10-2013, 07:53 AM
      #20  
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    Sometimes I baste and other times I use a glue stick which is the BEST way I have found to make sure the seams match perfectly! It does not leave a stain and washes out easily. I also use the glue stick to match patterns when I am sewing a quilt back, it is very forgiving
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