Do you iron your seams open?
#11
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 41,491
I only press open if there are a lot of seams coming together in one spot. While I use good thread to machine sew, if a seam thread breaks, it is easier to use an invisible ladder stitch to hand stitch it closed if the seams are pressed to one side. You do you and I’ll do me. 😁
#12
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 9,595
I press my seams to one side unless there are a lot of small pieces and I need to press open. I feel that the seams are stronger when pressed to the side and I can adjust my machine to still have accuracy.
#14
If the seams will nest nicely, I press to the side. My system is to press odd numbered rows to the left, and even rows to the right. But my newest game-changer is the wooden clapper. Once I googled it, I ordered a 2 piece set. After pressing, I use the clapper with a weight on top. Super flat seams!
With curves, I tend to press open.
With curves, I tend to press open.
#15
Super Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 4,235
The big reason I prefer to press to the side is that I have serious trouble matching up seams that are pressed open, and there is a very high probability that I will have to rip out and re-do. On the other hand, it is easy for me to match up seams that nest. The other reason I don't like pressing open is because the seams don't stay flat and open for me, whereas seams pressed to the side stay right where I've pressed them. I will consider pressing open when a pattern specifies to do so, and I have taken to pressing open the last seams of some sampler blocks, where the rows are sewn together.
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: northern minnesota
Posts: 2,422
I do a lot more finger pressing then I used to. I do it right at the sewing machine. I usually do press with an iron once the block is assembled. Works for me. I actually think finger pressing distorts the fabric less as there is no heat applied.
#18
The only time that seams pressed open are a problem is when you want to " stitch in the ditch". If you stitch on the sewing line, there is no fabric there... only thread. When l custom quilt a top with seams pressed open, l need to be careful to avoid quilting down those seams, and stitch next to them instead.
#19
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: The Finger Lakes of upstate NY
Posts: 3,486
We discussed this at a guild meeting earlier this week. Two people who long arm quilts said that seams pressed open are more likely to distort or even pop when loaded, given the stress on them. LA's pull those tops pretty taut.
Personally, I find it takes too long as it requires a lot more pinning to line the seams up. When pressed to the side, nesting naturally occurs. Without that little ridge to bump up against, pinning becomes needed. Most of the tops I sew have lots and lots of small pieces - 2-1/2" is pretty much the biggest I use - so it is a lot of seams to pin, slowing me down.
Personally, I find it takes too long as it requires a lot more pinning to line the seams up. When pressed to the side, nesting naturally occurs. Without that little ridge to bump up against, pinning becomes needed. Most of the tops I sew have lots and lots of small pieces - 2-1/2" is pretty much the biggest I use - so it is a lot of seams to pin, slowing me down.
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,137
Short form: I get the best results pressing open and pinning. Your mileage (and preferences) may differ.
Long form: I do not find pinning to be all that time consuming. Yes, there is definitely time spent pinning and unpinning both. I can see where people could have accuracy problems without pinning. Watching people who use stilettos, that seems to take as much or more time as my pinning. Once pinned I can zoom along at high speed. I always pin the leading edge as well as about every 2 inches because I do get better results that way. I didn't always pin, but started so I could have something to do at my quilting group and I liked the results. Plus, I often drop things (or my cat would jump up on things) and pinning keeps them together.
I have never had a problem quilting in the ditch on my open seams and have done a number of quilts over the last couple of decades doing just that. One reason is that I do piece with a pretty tiny stitch and needle, (more than 12 stitches per inch, prefer a size 10 needle) and I quilt with a larger stitch, plus I am using a new needle (typically 14 or above). I would no more expect my seams to be broken than I would to punch holes through woven fabric. Quilting in the ditch was typically with my standard sewing machine.
I have pictures of heavily used quilts that are now in the dog crate. I had severe allergies for many years and had to wash my quilts at least monthly, as well as change the sheets and pillow cases at least weekly. I've posted them before and will try to find them again. You can see that my open seams and in the ditch quilting have held up well. What didn't hold up well is I didn't do enough quilting, oh the batting held up and in place but what wore out was the center of the pieces.
Nor did have any problems with my seams when using a long arm. When I was using my friend's long arm, I'd typically do one quilt for me and one for her. With her quilts yes, I had all sorts of problems because she was using 10 or less stitches per inch. All her outer edges (all of them, blocks, columns, rows) would have issues because of her stitch length. I will also run a stay stitch around the outer edges of my quilts if there are a lot of seams. Don't bother with single pieces of border. Typically the stay stitch is slightly larger than my quilting stitch, so maybe 10ish per inch. I run it within the 1/4" seam allowance, using my quilters foot with one fork off the fabric.
Long form: I do not find pinning to be all that time consuming. Yes, there is definitely time spent pinning and unpinning both. I can see where people could have accuracy problems without pinning. Watching people who use stilettos, that seems to take as much or more time as my pinning. Once pinned I can zoom along at high speed. I always pin the leading edge as well as about every 2 inches because I do get better results that way. I didn't always pin, but started so I could have something to do at my quilting group and I liked the results. Plus, I often drop things (or my cat would jump up on things) and pinning keeps them together.
I have never had a problem quilting in the ditch on my open seams and have done a number of quilts over the last couple of decades doing just that. One reason is that I do piece with a pretty tiny stitch and needle, (more than 12 stitches per inch, prefer a size 10 needle) and I quilt with a larger stitch, plus I am using a new needle (typically 14 or above). I would no more expect my seams to be broken than I would to punch holes through woven fabric. Quilting in the ditch was typically with my standard sewing machine.
I have pictures of heavily used quilts that are now in the dog crate. I had severe allergies for many years and had to wash my quilts at least monthly, as well as change the sheets and pillow cases at least weekly. I've posted them before and will try to find them again. You can see that my open seams and in the ditch quilting have held up well. What didn't hold up well is I didn't do enough quilting, oh the batting held up and in place but what wore out was the center of the pieces.
Nor did have any problems with my seams when using a long arm. When I was using my friend's long arm, I'd typically do one quilt for me and one for her. With her quilts yes, I had all sorts of problems because she was using 10 or less stitches per inch. All her outer edges (all of them, blocks, columns, rows) would have issues because of her stitch length. I will also run a stay stitch around the outer edges of my quilts if there are a lot of seams. Don't bother with single pieces of border. Typically the stay stitch is slightly larger than my quilting stitch, so maybe 10ish per inch. I run it within the 1/4" seam allowance, using my quilters foot with one fork off the fabric.