Does the thread really matter?
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 421
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My machine does not like cheap thread, including Coats and Clark, for FMQ. I save the spools of C & C for regular sewing projects--but any strain or pulling on the thread, as in quilting, causes it to shred. And it does lint up.
#22
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Heart of Colorado's majestic mountains!
Posts: 6,026
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It is important to use a topstitch needle for FMQ because the hole in the needle is much longer than a universal needle. Most FMQ instructions say to use a size 14. It is also important to be sure the needle is in perfect condition-no burrs from stitching over pins, etc. I like to use a variety of threads-but none that are 'cheap' because thread makes a huge difference in your quilting and also the lint problem. I do not use nylon or polyester thread for STID. I really like the Bottom Line from Superior for that purpose. I do like Aurefil, Sulky and Superior for quilting because I like heavy threads in my designs sometimes. I do think you get lots of 'bang for the buck' with good quality thread.
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 264
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I recall a sewing machine repairman commenting that the cheap Walmart threads were the repairman's favoriite because they caused so much lint and frequent trips to the repair shop. ;-)
#27
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If I were you, I would be watching CL for an old Singer that just does straight stitches forward and backward. I forgot to look and see where you are; but I personally would not even consider using my Elna for quilting in any way shape or form (and here I shall add that my quilting machine is a Gammill set up on a 14' table for BIG bucks about four years ago); but failing that, think about saving your big bucks Singer from the quilting chores--it might be worth it in the long run to pay $100 to $150 for an old all metal Singer (Monkey Wards, or New Home, or Brother, or Kenmore to name only a few); PM me and we can talk about this further. Good luck; you're way braver than I am when it comes to doing FMQ.
#28
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So I have new thread - I changed my needle - the tension seems ok - but my thread is still breaking... I just told my husband throw my machine away - I am not sewing anymore! Of course that is not true...but that's how I feel right now. He asked what was different - basically nothing - I lower the feed dogs - the needle still just goes up and down...I just can't figure it out. I know it has to be something with my needle. The new thread comes through the machine ok - but after it goes through the needle it seems be kind of like how ribbon is when you pull it to make it curly on a knife or something sharp. The thread is kind of loopy....
Then I thought maybe a different needle - so I put the "orange" one in that came with the machine and it would not work with the threader which made me think that it was not in right.
That was when I cut the thread and pushed the machine away like a sassy dog.
UGGGGGG.....
Then I thought maybe a different needle - so I put the "orange" one in that came with the machine and it would not work with the threader which made me think that it was not in right.
That was when I cut the thread and pushed the machine away like a sassy dog.
UGGGGGG.....
#30
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The fact is that Gutermann and Mettler are some of the most expensive threads you can buy, and not the highest quality.
As for the FMQ on your Quantum, a couple of things:
1. The horizontal bobbins are a little more challenging to FMQ on than the vertical bobbins. Tension will tend to be a little different than on the verticals but typically top tension will need to be looser than with regular sewing.
2. I was successful with a 50wt thread and a 90/14 needle on a different machine, but even one needle size up might not be bad for learning.
3. Topstitch needles all the way!
4. Quality needles! Organ, Schmetz, etc. Not the cheap dollar store or the lower priced walmart needles. It bears noting if you're buying the "cheaper" thread, you may be buying the cheaper needles too. Lots of the cheaper ones have burrs, or aren't straight, or flex too much / not enough, etc.
5. I don't recall if you said you were using a darning / free motion foot - imperative!
6. Pressure foot - loosen the pressure on it
7. Stitch length - some people don't drop their feed dogs and just set their stitch length to 0. Either or, you don't need to go both. Some peopl get better results from leaving the dogs up and SL to 0 - including Leah Day.
It sounds like your Quantum doesn't do "0", so maybe check if there's a way to drop the dogs, or if there's a setting for free motion or darning on it.
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