dresden plate help
#1
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bought the ez quilting plastic dresden plate cutting template...requires 20 'blades'...cut them & sewn them together, BUT...the circle doesnt lay as flat as i think it should...
went back & looked at instructions, 20 blades;
checked 1/4" seam
pressed flat
but still when i lay it on the table, the middle is ruffled, and the blades will have to be smoothed out before machine stitching, BUT...im afraid too much pull will ripple the background fabric
im an experienced quilter, have a quality machine - my machine, seam allowance and thread stitch length are on target...(have measured)
do i starch??...press w/presscloth??...will i have to baste down or dampen to block the circle???
ive checked the ez quilting website, they dont offer any suggestions...actually, the packaging & directions of their product leaves a lot to be desired...
im wanting to make this my leader/ender project for this year, so i want to make a lot of these for xmas gifts next year...but before i continue, i need to address this...
ANY SUGGESTIONS??? thanks, monica
went back & looked at instructions, 20 blades;
checked 1/4" seam
pressed flat
but still when i lay it on the table, the middle is ruffled, and the blades will have to be smoothed out before machine stitching, BUT...im afraid too much pull will ripple the background fabric
im an experienced quilter, have a quality machine - my machine, seam allowance and thread stitch length are on target...(have measured)
do i starch??...press w/presscloth??...will i have to baste down or dampen to block the circle???
ive checked the ez quilting website, they dont offer any suggestions...actually, the packaging & directions of their product leaves a lot to be desired...
im wanting to make this my leader/ender project for this year, so i want to make a lot of these for xmas gifts next year...but before i continue, i need to address this...
ANY SUGGESTIONS??? thanks, monica
#2
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#3
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I hate to say it, but I checked, and the ruler is 18 degrees (360 / 20 = 18). If everything was perfectly cut and sewn, it would work.
Might I suggest not using steam as you press. I find that pressing with steam or spray after the pieces are cut, will make the fabric warp.
They're fun to make! I made about 18 for Christmas gifts last year.
Might I suggest not using steam as you press. I find that pressing with steam or spray after the pieces are cut, will make the fabric warp.
They're fun to make! I made about 18 for Christmas gifts last year.
#4
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My thought is that every seam stretched when you sewed, as all of the cuts were probably on the bias. What I would do is *heavily* starch the fabric before cutting the blades. By this I mean a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo liquid laundry starch and water; spray starch is not nearly as heavy. My method for starching fabric is to "paint" the starch on with a large wall painting brush, wait a few minutes to allow the fibers to absorb as much starch as possible, toss in dryer, then iron with steam.
Also, when cutting the blades, I would place one cut side on the straight-of-grain of the fabric (the lengthwise grain is even more stable than the crosswise grain). I would also try to keep this always the same side of the blade -- e.g., the righthand side of the blade when rightside of fabric is up. This would ensure that you would always be sewing a straight-grain edge to a bias edge. (The edges most likely to stretch and distort while sewing are two bias edges together; having even one of the edges on the straight-of-grain will help.)
All of the above will help stabilize the fabric so it is less likely to stretch and distort as you sew. It is still a good idea to handle the pieces carefully.
I probably wouldn't do this, but you can also carefully trace the template onto paper so you have a paper template against which to place your plate as it is partially completed. It would help to catch distortions earlier, rather than waiting until all 20 pieces are sewn in place.
One last thing you might look at is your sewing machine. Some machines are better than others at sewing without stretching fabric. You might find that lightening the presser foot pressure helps (not all machines have this adjustment, though). Or, you might find that you need a walking foot on this particular machine. Usually heavy starching and careful sewing is enough, especially if you can cut pieces with one edge on the straight-of-grain.
Also, when cutting the blades, I would place one cut side on the straight-of-grain of the fabric (the lengthwise grain is even more stable than the crosswise grain). I would also try to keep this always the same side of the blade -- e.g., the righthand side of the blade when rightside of fabric is up. This would ensure that you would always be sewing a straight-grain edge to a bias edge. (The edges most likely to stretch and distort while sewing are two bias edges together; having even one of the edges on the straight-of-grain will help.)
All of the above will help stabilize the fabric so it is less likely to stretch and distort as you sew. It is still a good idea to handle the pieces carefully.
I probably wouldn't do this, but you can also carefully trace the template onto paper so you have a paper template against which to place your plate as it is partially completed. It would help to catch distortions earlier, rather than waiting until all 20 pieces are sewn in place.
One last thing you might look at is your sewing machine. Some machines are better than others at sewing without stretching fabric. You might find that lightening the presser foot pressure helps (not all machines have this adjustment, though). Or, you might find that you need a walking foot on this particular machine. Usually heavy starching and careful sewing is enough, especially if you can cut pieces with one edge on the straight-of-grain.
#6
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You could cut pieces of paper (with paper scissors) and sew the seams using them. This way the edges will not stretch if you pin them. I would work in quarters. Sew 4 or 5 together, lay aside, and sew each set like this. Then sew the sections together.
Another thing you could check is the circle size itself. Pin it to the ironing board and then measure from side to side, and top to bottom. Maybe that will show you if something is wrong. You could also fold it in half and see if there is something wrong this way. Hope this helps.
Another thing you could check is the circle size itself. Pin it to the ironing board and then measure from side to side, and top to bottom. Maybe that will show you if something is wrong. You could also fold it in half and see if there is something wrong this way. Hope this helps.
#8
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How did you sew them? Did you sew them one at a time adding another and the join the circle? I was shown at a class by Jenny Rayment to sew them in pairs, then join two pairs together, then join the 4's together pressing each set as you go(if this makes sense?) this gave us a flat plate.
#9
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: England Alton Towers
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I would suggest starching before cutting and joining in pairs before final day 10 and 10. I would not press in between only when final 10 stage and then I would not slide iron pick up and press.
good luck.
good luck.
#10
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Hey Monica, There was a tudorial by the Missori Star Co. I saw yesterday. Jenny said when that happens, just put a little starch and a little steam and it will lay flat. What you may want to do in this case if it still won't lay flat, is to pick out the last blade you sewn on. Cut that in half or 1/4 off then sew and see what happens. But if you already put the circle on, that ok. just use the starch and the steam. It will be ok.
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