economical foundation papers for paper piecing?
01-29-2015, 06:20 AM
#41
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Illinois
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...wish there was a paper factory near here.....there used to be a newspaper printing place not too far away, but they closed.........
The trouble with online ordering sometimes S&H takes away " the great price"
The trouble with online ordering sometimes S&H takes away " the great price"
01-29-2015, 06:32 AM
#42
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Location: Lost in my stash- do not find
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Find a Dr.'s office that will give you a roll of paper used on the tables. It is HUGE and should last quite awhile. Mine I have had for over two years and it never seems to get smaller. I use it for any piecing project that requires smaller than 1 1/2" cuts.
01-29-2015, 06:59 AM
#44
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
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I you check on the "net" for the flip and sew method that uses freezer paper...you can adapt that method by using a children's glue stick to secure the fabric to the pattern, then you sew along the fold line NOT through the paper, flip, press, stick, trim and sew again. The pattern then peals off and can be used again, no pointy sewn papers to remove, you use less paper, fewer mistakes to rip because you see what you are sewing, can use a regular stitch length...it is the way to go. That roll of newsprint will supply an entire guild plus and you are saving trees as well.
01-29-2015, 08:35 AM
#45
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: No. California
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I prefer the regular foundation paper, but have used my 20wt. copy paper and it works pretty good. Just use a small stitch and I prefer to use a size 14 needle......just take a little care when pulling the paper off....in other words, don't stress the fabric......
01-29-2015, 08:43 AM
#46
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Apache Junction, AZ
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This the paper I use also. The only problem I have is that my printer only lets me use one sheet at a time.
01-29-2015, 09:09 AM
#47
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Location: American Canyon, CA
Posts: 1,086
For my last PP project I used the Scribble Pads at the $ store. Only issue is that I had to cut the paper down to fit into my printer. It does run through my printer well with no issues. A friend offered me a tip and it works well with me---before sewing any fabric to your paper fold on all the lines using your fingernail to make a nice crisp crease. She will usually do this step while she's watching TV or sitting in a meeting. This helps to line up your fabric and makes tearing off the paper so much easier. I've tried it with my last project of 224 blocks and it worked well.
01-29-2015, 09:17 AM
#48
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 469
I have used a pad of 8.5 x 11 inch tracing paper at office supplies stores or Pat Catan's or maybe Michaels?;
You might also be able to get a roll of "canary paper" (pale yellow) at an art supply store that might be reasonably priced (haven't bought that in years!). That you can cut to size, but might have trouble in a printer.
Otherwise reg. copy paper (cheaper the better) with shortened stitch lengths.
Good luck.
You might also be able to get a roll of "canary paper" (pale yellow) at an art supply store that might be reasonably priced (haven't bought that in years!). That you can cut to size, but might have trouble in a printer.
Otherwise reg. copy paper (cheaper the better) with shortened stitch lengths.
Good luck.
01-29-2015, 09:43 AM
#49
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lowell, MA
Posts: 14,083
I've always used regular copy paper and it works. Although Mdegenhart has a good idea of buying 8 1/2 x 11 newsprint, which would go through the printer and would tear away easier; however, using a small stitch, then a technique I learned in a class with Carol Doak, you pull on 2 corners of the block, then the other 2, which helps release the paper.
01-29-2015, 01:56 PM
#50
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,688
The reason I don't reduce my stitch length when paper piecing is because it makes removing the stitches in case of 'misplacement' completely impossible plus dinky stitches can pull the fabric too tight resulting in a puckered block.
In my experience, folding on the stitch line after the block is done or brushing the stitches with a damp paint brush are all that's needed to remove most types of paper effortlessly even with normal piecing stitch lengths.
In my experience, folding on the stitch line after the block is done or brushing the stitches with a damp paint brush are all that's needed to remove most types of paper effortlessly even with normal piecing stitch lengths.
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