End of Cut Tabs
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 2,353
End of Cut Tabs
I have no idea why this is happening or how to prevent it. I'm cutting strips and they are straight, but the end of each cut has this blip. I've tried smoothing down the selvedges before placing my ruler and also move my hand up so I'm holding the ruler tight when cutting. Nothing seems to work. In the end, it won't affect anything because I need to trip the ends to sew them together into long strips but this is annoying. What is causing it?
#2
Our arms are not long enough to cut long lengths of fabric.
I would recommend a Slidelock ruler or putting a weight on
your ruler or changing the way you cut your fabric.
I usually try to fold my fabric twice...which means four layers.
I also cut a little bigger so if there is a bow in the strip I can
correct it when I sub-cut. That's just me and my not so flat
table. :-)
I would recommend a Slidelock ruler or putting a weight on
your ruler or changing the way you cut your fabric.
I usually try to fold my fabric twice...which means four layers.
I also cut a little bigger so if there is a bow in the strip I can
correct it when I sub-cut. That's just me and my not so flat
table. :-)
#3
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Davenport, Iowa
Posts: 3,886
I use two individual 2 lb hand weights to hold my ruler in place so it doesn't move even the slightest bit. I would rather take the time to move the weights after each cut and then move them back again to the ruler than to have a miscut of fabric.
#4
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,660
Have you tried clipping the selvage up to the main part of the fabric? Especially if you have washed or starched the fabric. The selvages often shrink more than the main part of the fabric.
Or cut the selvages off - which I try to avoid doing right away because 1) I like to know the blah blah printed on then. And 2) minimizes fraying while they are intact.
Or cut the selvages off - which I try to avoid doing right away because 1) I like to know the blah blah printed on then. And 2) minimizes fraying while they are intact.
#5
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 9,735
Have you tried clipping the selvage up to the main part of the fabric? Especially if you have washed or starched the fabric. The selvages often shrink more than the main part of the fabric.
Or cut the selvages off - which I try to avoid doing right away because 1) I like to know the blah blah printed on then. And 2) minimizes fraying while they are intact.
Or cut the selvages off - which I try to avoid doing right away because 1) I like to know the blah blah printed on then. And 2) minimizes fraying while they are intact.
#6
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: NW MN lake country
Posts: 3,589
I agree with EasyPeezy that we try to reach too far when we cut, but I have solved that problem by adding narrow strips of anti-slip floor tread tape to the backs of all my rulers. They will not move at all, no matter how long the ruler. It has saved me a lot of recutting and aggravation for a very small investment. Maybe this will help you too.
#7
Power Poster
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern USA
Posts: 16,426
I use the Quilter's Slidelock when using long rulers. The fabric stays exactly where you put it under the ruler. I bought it years ago when it was an Australian product, right after cutting my finger with a rotary cutter. I knew I never wanted that to happen again so got it for safety purpose. It has been one of my best purchases for quilting. I have the two sizes. The patent was bought by a US seller and then resold recently to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CisZ7inyWA
#8
I agree with EasyPeezy that we try to reach too far when we cut, but I have solved that problem by adding narrow strips of anti-slip floor tread tape to the backs of all my rulers. They will not move at all, no matter how long the ruler. It has saved me a lot of recutting and aggravation for a very small investment. Maybe this will help you too.
said when she puts True Grips on the back of her rulers and always
put one in the centre. That makes sense and could solve the bowing
problem.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Northeast
Posts: 682
I use one/sometimes two, 5 pound exercise weights - one toward each end of the ruler. I started doing this after seeing Donna Jordan of Jordan Fabrics use a weight. It stopped my ruler and fabric from moving, which it can do even with the no slide backed rulers, or tack dots or strips on the back of the rulers.
A lot of acrylic rulers are not completely flat and are definitely not heavy enough to hold down and keep the fabric from moving. You need weight, either your hands or like I do, using both my hand as I go along and an exercise weight or two to keep the ruler in place and in total contact with the fabric. I also still take the time, when I am making cuts, to hold down the ruler opposite of where the blade is cutting, as it is cutting, to make sure the ruler is actually in contact with the fabric and holding it secure.
A lot of acrylic rulers are not completely flat and are definitely not heavy enough to hold down and keep the fabric from moving. You need weight, either your hands or like I do, using both my hand as I go along and an exercise weight or two to keep the ruler in place and in total contact with the fabric. I also still take the time, when I am making cuts, to hold down the ruler opposite of where the blade is cutting, as it is cutting, to make sure the ruler is actually in contact with the fabric and holding it secure.
Last edited by quiltsfor; 10-15-2023 at 04:23 PM.