Fat Thread?
#21
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 71
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Hi Joyce
I have a question concerning purchasing a new bobbin case for your machine. I have not done so yet, but was wanting to. I was wondering if they already come with the tension set like they do when they come with the machine, or do you have to set it? Thanks for any help
I have a question concerning purchasing a new bobbin case for your machine. I have not done so yet, but was wanting to. I was wondering if they already come with the tension set like they do when they come with the machine, or do you have to set it? Thanks for any help
#22
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I have seen perel cotton on a larger ball, it's not quite as thick as the 2 strands I used. What I used was on a skein like embroidery floss. If you want to use your machine for a "hand quilted" look, one way is to put the colored thread in the bobbin and use a clear thread on the top. Adjust the tension so that the bobbin thread comes up to the top of the fabric. Do this by tightening the top tension and lowering the bottom tension.
#23
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The "fat" thread you saw was probably a heavier weight thread like 12 wt. or 20 wt. I love the look these threads make as well but they are a little tricky to work with your machine but worth the effort. Others can probably help you with needle size, bobbin thread, tension, etc. I don't know what kind of machine you have Anyway, give the 12 wt. a try, it is a great look. :lol:
#24
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I have used poly serger thread (verigated) when I wanted the stitching to show. Even the Mettler #50 is a bit heavier looking than #50 mercerized cotton. My experience is this with this type of thread: pre-wash your fabrics for minimal shrinkage/distortion, use a smaller needle with a bigger eye (embroidery needles are usually easier to find, but sometimes I get lucky and find quilting needles- and stock up when I do- or "sharps" as a last result- NEVER "universal" because they cut or puncture instead of sliding between the fibers of the fabric). This reduces the thread pop-ups you will occasionally see when machine quilting. I loosened the top tension just slightly, and left the bottom tension alone. (Because of the smaller needle size you play with the tension a bit less.) One word of warning about this thread: it is a poly thread which means it is stronger than your cotton fabric, so I (would recommend) only use it on large quilts where I am doing larger quilting designs. (If I decide to add smaller quilting to the quilt, I switch to a cotton thread.) After using this type of thread you will want to wash the quilt, throw it in the dryer for a short time, removing before completely dry, and then spread out to dry, "blocking" it before binding if possible. I am no expert, but I do love to play with many threads just to see which effect I like for each quilt I make. If you want to stick with all cotton thread I can recommend Valdani #40, or Star (I think is the name) #50. Both quilt a bit heavier looking and are available in many colors. (The Star brand is more effective if you use the same color in the top & bobbin.) You can also "Trick" the eye by using a #40 or #50 for your main quilting and then do your background quilting with a bit finer thread like a #60 on up to a #100.
With all of the new threads in the market and access to the internet the possibilities are endless; jump in & have fun with as many of them as possible! Here is one rule I learned to always be true- keep like threads in both top & bobbin (cot/cot, poly/poly, however, you can mix silk & rayon). Poly thread will cut cotton thread.
Sorry to be too verbal on this subject, but it is so near & dear to my heart!! I could go on, and on, and on... Have fun!! Have fun!! Have fun!!
With all of the new threads in the market and access to the internet the possibilities are endless; jump in & have fun with as many of them as possible! Here is one rule I learned to always be true- keep like threads in both top & bobbin (cot/cot, poly/poly, however, you can mix silk & rayon). Poly thread will cut cotton thread.
Sorry to be too verbal on this subject, but it is so near & dear to my heart!! I could go on, and on, and on... Have fun!! Have fun!! Have fun!!
#29
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 17
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I am working on my first quilt ever, and I also bought varigated thread. I couldn't woit to use it, but as I am taking a class to learn some quilting skills, my teacher had a hissy fit and said no.
I wondered if there are some guidlines to using varigated thread so it doesn't compete with all the hard work I've done making my blocks? (sometimes daily arguements with my sewing machine...)
I plan to use the thread in my next quilt (assuming I ever finish the first one that is :) ) and it would be helpful to know what I am doing.
I wondered if there are some guidlines to using varigated thread so it doesn't compete with all the hard work I've done making my blocks? (sometimes daily arguements with my sewing machine...)
I plan to use the thread in my next quilt (assuming I ever finish the first one that is :) ) and it would be helpful to know what I am doing.
#30
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 6
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I have an HQ16 long arm. Some of the threads that I purchase from Superior Threads are a lot thicker than others. Especially the verigated. Superior's website is very informative to all the different types of threads and their uses. I seem to remember some heavier threads designed for hand quilting, but I'm more familiar with the ones that I use on my long arm.
Happy Quilting!
Candy
Happy Quilting!
Candy
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