Floating quilt top Pros and Cons
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 102
Floating quilt top Pros and Cons
I am about to quilt a graduation present for a friend. I am not an experienced quilter so I am nervous about this project. I pieced the top with no problems. I have floated all my tops up to this point but I want to be sure this stays straight. It has photos in the center of stars that are 4” square that will only be outlined. What do you more experienced quilters do with your quilts? Any suggestions for me before I start? This will also be my first custom design. I have always used pantos before this but not possible on this one. This is a favor for my brother or I would never have agreed to it. LOL. Thanks for any help or advice.
#2
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,783
For me, it's easier to keep the sides of the quilt from migrating towards the center if the quilt top is attached to leaders top and bottom. Even then I need to push it outward now and then with my palms on it where it's against the front bar to keep the edges in line with my longarm centering tape marker.
#3
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,097
When I float a quilt top it is attached at the bottom leader then sewn to a line sewn across the top backing and batting and then all basted on each side as I roll down the quilt. I don't think I've ever seen a quilt not be straight with this method.
#4
For those who may be wondering, floating the quilt is when the bottom of the quilt top is not attached to the leader. I started out not floating my quilts, then floated them for a long time. Recently I decided to stop floating, and the last quilt I did that way, attaching the bottom to the leader, seemed to be take less work. When you float the quilt, you have to check much more often that the quilt is staying square. Most of the longarm teachers I've taken classes from have recommended not floating the quilt.
#6
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: kansas
Posts: 6,407
I almost always float the top--sew it down at the top along a line stitching down the batting using my channel locks (so it's straight), then pin the edge to that line. One key to keeping it straight is to make sure not to tug too tight on the side clamps--as a matter of fact, I have my clamps attached to a school ruler that is inserted into a sleeve of canvas about 12-14" square--then I pin the canvas edge to the back/bat. That prevents the uneven tug on the sides plus keeps my ruler table from hanging up on the edges, too. As I roll the quilt I line up the sides using either a long tap measure with markers that velcros on the sides, or even just wood yardstick tucked into the quilt/take up roll and laid along the edge of the quilt. Where the quilt & bat lay over the belly bar, (I float the backing too) I use long magnets to keep it lined up that way. I have found that I'm able to keep it square this way. When I get a super king I will attach the quilt to the bar leaders just cause so much fabric to wrestle.
#7
I followed another QB members idea and put a bungie cord with paraclips on it along the front of my rails. I get the backing on and batting and have it adjusted on the tight side, then I lay the top down and get it relativiely straight along the top edge. I then use the chanel locks on my machine (if don't have the computer turned on, I use the plastic C clip to hold the carriage wheel in place) I roll the machine along and pin the top edge where it need to be to have the quilt straignt. Then I straighten down both sides and pin, and then move the clips on the cord to line up with vertical lines on the quilt - I have 6 clips so put one near each edge and the others where I can line up.
Then I loosen the quilt 2-3 notches as my machine likes the top on the loose side.
When I role, that front cord often is adequate to use to keep the front square, and I use the clips to keep the sides striaght. I always roll tight, get everything lined up and pinned on the sides, then loose up. Often I have to pull a bit on the upper sides as the quilting pulls everything in and I need to get it back in place if I'm using a computer design.
Since I put on the marking cord, I no longer need to measure anything when I advance the quilt. Makes it a lot easier.
Then I loosen the quilt 2-3 notches as my machine likes the top on the loose side.
When I role, that front cord often is adequate to use to keep the front square, and I use the clips to keep the sides striaght. I always roll tight, get everything lined up and pinned on the sides, then loose up. Often I have to pull a bit on the upper sides as the quilting pulls everything in and I need to get it back in place if I'm using a computer design.
Since I put on the marking cord, I no longer need to measure anything when I advance the quilt. Makes it a lot easier.
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Kansas
Posts: 102
Thank you all for your helpful replies. I am going to try to attach the top this time. Hopefully I will be okay. I would like to see pictures of the bungee cord setup though. That might be something I could try in the future. My machine is just the HQ16 and no computer so I am limited in the size of designs I can do. Wish me luck. I will post a picture when I am done.
#9
I tried attaching both ends to the leaders when I first got my LA 10 years ago and didn’t like it. Felt I had no control. Have floated ever since. I, too use the shock cord lineup system, and have had no problem keeping my quilt absolutely straight.
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#10
Super Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,184
I tried attaching both ends to the leaders when I first got my LA 10 years ago and didn’t like it. Felt I had no control. Have floated ever since. I, too use the shock cord lineup system, and have had no problem keeping my quilt absolutely straight.
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Thank you Macybay for the explanation and Cindi’s photo made it crystal clear.
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