FMQ - tension? issues
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Usually in my sewing room
Posts: 813
FMQ - tension? issues
Ladies -- I've been practicing FMQ and I think I'm having tension issues but I don't know how to fix the problem.
Attached is a pic of the bottom side of a practice quilt sandwich. I've outlined in red where I removed the hopping foot and stitched with the straight stitch foot. No problems on the top or the bottom with the stitch quality.
Then before trying the FMQing, I thoroughly cleaned the bobbin case of dust and lint, and made sure that the tension was not changed from the straight stitch setting. I started out with a new needle and I'm using King Tut thread in the bottom and on the top. The batting is Warm and Natural low loft. When FMQ, I've started to get the hang of keeping the stitching speed even, the pressure on the foot pedal even, and not moving the fabric sandwich too fast.
Not sure how to fix this so if anyone can give me some suggestions I'd appreciate your help.
Stitch124
Attached is a pic of the bottom side of a practice quilt sandwich. I've outlined in red where I removed the hopping foot and stitched with the straight stitch foot. No problems on the top or the bottom with the stitch quality.
Then before trying the FMQing, I thoroughly cleaned the bobbin case of dust and lint, and made sure that the tension was not changed from the straight stitch setting. I started out with a new needle and I'm using King Tut thread in the bottom and on the top. The batting is Warm and Natural low loft. When FMQ, I've started to get the hang of keeping the stitching speed even, the pressure on the foot pedal even, and not moving the fabric sandwich too fast.
Not sure how to fix this so if anyone can give me some suggestions I'd appreciate your help.
Stitch124
#3
It could be that you are not quite in sync with the needle movement as you are moving the fabric; I struggled with that when I was starting out.
First, just concentrate on making good stitches, not necessarily making loops, curves, etc. Try stitching some straight-ish lines of stitching when you are FMQ and see if you can get a better feel for how/when to move the fabric as the stitches form. After awhile it becomes second nature to allow the fabric to momentarily pause as the needle is in its furthest down position. Your aren't really starting and stopping the fabric motion at all, just holding in a manner so that the machine dictates when it moves freely and when it hesitates ever so slightly. You will need to try stitching at different speeds to see when the fabric moves most smoothly for you also.
Hope this makes some sense to you. Give it a try, and keep asking questions, and eventually it will start to work for you too!
First, just concentrate on making good stitches, not necessarily making loops, curves, etc. Try stitching some straight-ish lines of stitching when you are FMQ and see if you can get a better feel for how/when to move the fabric as the stitches form. After awhile it becomes second nature to allow the fabric to momentarily pause as the needle is in its furthest down position. Your aren't really starting and stopping the fabric motion at all, just holding in a manner so that the machine dictates when it moves freely and when it hesitates ever so slightly. You will need to try stitching at different speeds to see when the fabric moves most smoothly for you also.
Hope this makes some sense to you. Give it a try, and keep asking questions, and eventually it will start to work for you too!
#4
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 41,548
I always have to increase my top tension for FMQ. I put mine up 2 whole numbers from regular sewing tension. When I get done with the FMQ, I dial it back down to the factory setting for regular sewing.
Also I am not very fond of King Tut threads and you didn't mention the weight of your thread. I like 50 wt. for top threads with a lighter thread in the bobbin.
Also I am not very fond of King Tut threads and you didn't mention the weight of your thread. I like 50 wt. for top threads with a lighter thread in the bobbin.
Last edited by Tartan; 02-04-2014 at 05:40 AM.
#8
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 17,861
It's not uncommon to need to adjust tension, once you leave straight stitching and move to FMQ ... under the same conditions as you have demonstrated with your test piece.
Don't fear tension adjustment ... just make notes as to where it is ideal for you.
And recognize that the next time it just might be different!
Don't fear tension adjustment ... just make notes as to where it is ideal for you.
And recognize that the next time it just might be different!
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Usually in my sewing room
Posts: 813
I am using 50wt for top and bottom...still learning about thread wts.
I always have to increase my top tension for FMQ. I put mine up 2 whole numbers from regular sewing tension. When I get done with the FMQ, I dial it back down to the factory setting for regular sewing.
Also I am not very fond of King Tut threads and you didn't mention the weight of your thread. I like 50 wt. for top threads with a lighter thread in the bobbin.
Also I am not very fond of King Tut threads and you didn't mention the weight of your thread. I like 50 wt. for top threads with a lighter thread in the bobbin.
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