FMQ in thirds
#11
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Bikini Bottom
Posts: 5,652
Originally Posted by lisalovesquilting
You could do any of these but I was thinking FM. Billy, I don't think wrinkles would be a problem because you would pin or use spray adhesive. But it would have to be marked somehow so you would know where to stop. I was thinking about this, maybe a row of pins or a line made with a water removable marker. It would depend on the pattern used whether you could tell where you stop and start I guess.
Billy
#12
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I have not used this method yet because I haven't done any large quilts recently, but I wouldn't hesitate to use it. I ran across a very good description of how to do it in one of Debra Wagner's books (don't remember which one and most of my books are packed in boxes at the moment), and Marti Michell has a book out on it, "Machine Quilting in Sections".
It seems to me that DB recommended creating the quilt sandwich first as usual, then folding back the top and backing fabrics from the side and pinning them out of the way when making the cuts. I think this was before the days of spray basting, though. Now I think I would measure how wide I wanted the center piece of batting and cut it first. For basting, I'd layer as usual but just use the middle piece of batting, fold back the fabric to expose the top half of the batting, put some newspaper or other protection underneath the batting, place a strip of paper 4-6 inches wide on top of the batting edge (so it stays free for connecting later), spray the batting, smooth the fabric back over the batting, repeat with the other half, then flip the whole sandwich over to do the other side. Easy peasy.
The big thing I remmber from Debra Wagner's book is that, when cutting the batting into thirds, she advises cutting a curvy line rather than a straight line. It would be like alternating scallops every 6-8 inches or so. Label the sections for right-side-up and left/right. This allows you later on to match up the pieces of batting exactly as they were before you cut, and eliminates any tendency for the quilt to always fold along that line.
I always thought I would hand sew the two pieces of batting together with a stitch like the one Sharon Schamber uses in her basting video on Youtube. Seems to me that was what DB recommended to keep the join totally invisible. After sewing the two pieces of batting together, I would spray baste that side together. (The only difference would be you would fold back from the side instead of from the top/bottom.)
It would be a good idea to mark where you want to stop quilting on the middle third. What I would do, after spray basting, is run a line of machine basting stitches down the quilt about 6 inches from each edge.
The big advantage of this method is that bulk under the arm of the machine is greatly reduced while you are machine quilting the middle section. Just be sure to pin the top and backing together and keep them rolled out of the way so you don't accidentally quilt over the sides while in the middle!
It seems to me that DB recommended creating the quilt sandwich first as usual, then folding back the top and backing fabrics from the side and pinning them out of the way when making the cuts. I think this was before the days of spray basting, though. Now I think I would measure how wide I wanted the center piece of batting and cut it first. For basting, I'd layer as usual but just use the middle piece of batting, fold back the fabric to expose the top half of the batting, put some newspaper or other protection underneath the batting, place a strip of paper 4-6 inches wide on top of the batting edge (so it stays free for connecting later), spray the batting, smooth the fabric back over the batting, repeat with the other half, then flip the whole sandwich over to do the other side. Easy peasy.
The big thing I remmber from Debra Wagner's book is that, when cutting the batting into thirds, she advises cutting a curvy line rather than a straight line. It would be like alternating scallops every 6-8 inches or so. Label the sections for right-side-up and left/right. This allows you later on to match up the pieces of batting exactly as they were before you cut, and eliminates any tendency for the quilt to always fold along that line.
I always thought I would hand sew the two pieces of batting together with a stitch like the one Sharon Schamber uses in her basting video on Youtube. Seems to me that was what DB recommended to keep the join totally invisible. After sewing the two pieces of batting together, I would spray baste that side together. (The only difference would be you would fold back from the side instead of from the top/bottom.)
It would be a good idea to mark where you want to stop quilting on the middle third. What I would do, after spray basting, is run a line of machine basting stitches down the quilt about 6 inches from each edge.
The big advantage of this method is that bulk under the arm of the machine is greatly reduced while you are machine quilting the middle section. Just be sure to pin the top and backing together and keep them rolled out of the way so you don't accidentally quilt over the sides while in the middle!
#13
Interesting and well worth trying this method :D:D:D I really like the idea of reducing that extra bulk...if it works I might even be convinced to go larger than lap quilts :D:D:D
#15
Super Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 3,708
I think it sounds like a great method. I do FM quilting and I bet you could do a more intricate pattern easier with that method. I can do a FM one on my yard sale machine but I think I could do better with this method. If I ever stop getting into swaps and start making tops I will give it a try. I think I did try it a long while ago and like the method.
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DawnFurlong
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02-16-2012 03:50 PM