Getting discouraged
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 161
You could try an Elmer's Gluestick if you want to glue baste...they work really well and are pliable enough after they dry that pushing a needle through wouldn't be an issue.
Do you have your heart set on hand piecing? Or are you hand piecing because you think it will be easier than machine piecing? If you really WANT to hand piece, try finer pins...sometimes the big thick pins they try to pass off as "quilter's pins" at big box stores will shift your seams. You can find extra fine quilting pins from Nancy's Notions or another specialty catalog like that.
I personally think that machine piecing is easier...if you're trying to perfect your hand quilting skills I totally get it...but if you're thinking that hand piecing will be easier to start with I totally am from the school of thought that thinks it's easier to quilt on a machine to avoid what you're going through right now. Just my two cents!!
Good luck, I hope you find something that works for you!!
Do you have your heart set on hand piecing? Or are you hand piecing because you think it will be easier than machine piecing? If you really WANT to hand piece, try finer pins...sometimes the big thick pins they try to pass off as "quilter's pins" at big box stores will shift your seams. You can find extra fine quilting pins from Nancy's Notions or another specialty catalog like that.
I personally think that machine piecing is easier...if you're trying to perfect your hand quilting skills I totally get it...but if you're thinking that hand piecing will be easier to start with I totally am from the school of thought that thinks it's easier to quilt on a machine to avoid what you're going through right now. Just my two cents!!
Good luck, I hope you find something that works for you!!
To answer some other questions it's not matching the seams on 2 pieces but at the intersections I'm having problems with.
#13
I would gladly piece on a machine but I don't have one and really can't afford one. Not only that but we live in a 2 bedroom apartment and don't have the room to set one up. I really want to get one but we are trying to downsize first.
To answer some other questions it's not matching the seams on 2pieces but at the intersections I'm having problems with.
To answer some other questions it's not matching the seams on 2pieces but at the intersections I'm having problems with.
I prefer hand piecing, myself.
#14
What she said! Pin perpendicular to the sewing line, not parallel to it.
I'm guessing you're speaking of matching seams when sewing 2 blocks together? I would pin for hand piecing the same way I pin for machine piecing...I put a pin straight down top to bottom through the seam on the top piece, then take the bottom piece and place that pin through that seam. With that pin still vertical, I place a pin as closely as possible on both sides horizontally through both pieces of fabric and then remove the vertical pin. I do this at each intersection. I also pin with the head of the pin on the outside edge of the fabric. You could then hand sew with the edge of the fabric towards you to reduce pin sticks. Hope this helps.
#16
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 5
I've been reading all the posts, and I thought I'd share some information I obtained fom customers when I worked in a fabric store. They used "Washaway Wonder Tape". It apparently disappears in the first washing. Just a thought. Another idea I have is to use the Heat and bond hem adhesive.
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 1,920
Hand piecing problems
My very first quilting course was handpiecing. We were taught to mark the 1/4" stitching line. We marked dots at corners where intersections would appear. For longer lengths, we did use pins every 3 or so inches. We were taught to check the back side to assure we were stitching on the 1/4" line.
The stitches and seams were not pressed like we do when machine piecing. Stitch to where two seams meet at an intersection, stopping at the dots, taking one stitch. Hold the fabric with the left hand fingers and thumb allowing both seams to stand up straight - one up and one down. Take a second stitch on the right of the seam at the dots making sure all four dots are "kissing". Carefully stitch through the intersection coming up on the opposite side of the intersection. The seams are still standing straight up. Take a second stitch on this left of these seams and continue to the end. ALL of the seams will stand until you press the entire block.
Hope this is clear. Ask for clarification, if not.
The stitches and seams were not pressed like we do when machine piecing. Stitch to where two seams meet at an intersection, stopping at the dots, taking one stitch. Hold the fabric with the left hand fingers and thumb allowing both seams to stand up straight - one up and one down. Take a second stitch on the right of the seam at the dots making sure all four dots are "kissing". Carefully stitch through the intersection coming up on the opposite side of the intersection. The seams are still standing straight up. Take a second stitch on this left of these seams and continue to the end. ALL of the seams will stand until you press the entire block.
Hope this is clear. Ask for clarification, if not.
#19
I do alot of hand piecing and I have added an extra step to my stitiching just for this same issue. What I do is I cut my pieces out per directions, then I go to "my" next step.
I draw a stitch line by measuring an 1/4" from the cut edge using a nice sharp white crayola pencil (for dark colors) or mechanial (?) pencil (for the light fabrics) on each side of each piece. And since I've started doing this things line up for me regardless if it's a big block or a 2" square for my doll/mini quilts.
I also always use the same ruler and needles for the whole project. Since then I started that, all my seams match up so I have less frustration and found it so worth the extra step.
Hope you might consider adding this in your hand quilting project.
Tricia
I draw a stitch line by measuring an 1/4" from the cut edge using a nice sharp white crayola pencil (for dark colors) or mechanial (?) pencil (for the light fabrics) on each side of each piece. And since I've started doing this things line up for me regardless if it's a big block or a 2" square for my doll/mini quilts.
I also always use the same ruler and needles for the whole project. Since then I started that, all my seams match up so I have less frustration and found it so worth the extra step.
Hope you might consider adding this in your hand quilting project.
Tricia
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