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  • Getting seams to match up. Will I ever master it?

  • Getting seams to match up. Will I ever master it?

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    Old 06-17-2010, 10:05 AM
      #31  
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    if I have an intersection that I want to match up I'll pin until I get it just perfect then go to the machine and "pre-sew" just that place with a few stitches, then sew the pieces together just like normal. When I get to that intersection, it's already sewn so I know it's not going to shift or move and any adjustments can be made before or after that spot. I just sew right on over those few stitches as if they weren't there.
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    Old 06-17-2010, 10:44 AM
      #32  
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    that is a good tip, why didn't we think of that, thanks for sharing

    Originally Posted by Shibori
    if I have an intersection that I want to match up I'll pin until I get it just perfect then go to the machine and "pre-sew" just that place with a few stitches, then sew the pieces together just like normal. When I get to that intersection, it's already sewn so I know it's not going to shift or move and any adjustments can be made before or after that spot. I just sew right on over those few stitches as if they weren't there.
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    Old 06-17-2010, 10:45 AM
      #33  
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    I just love this board, everyone is so helpful and giving us cool tips and comments

    I salute all of you!

    Job well done!
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    Old 06-17-2010, 10:45 AM
      #34  
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    Originally Posted by Suzanne57
    Originally Posted by Katia

    What sort of glue do you use for basting, just the school type or something special?
    I use Elmers washable school glue and touch it with an iron to dry it. If it doesn't match up on the first try, it separates easily with a gentle tug to reposition and reglue.

    I line up the points with a straight pin stuck in the points as mentioned in other replies, then glue and iron. If the glue is dry, I haven't noticed any gunking of the needle.
    This is exactly what I use, and I have never had it gunk up on my needle. Drying it first with the iron sets the glue. A tiny drop is all you need to hold it in place :wink: It IS easy to pull apart if you need to reposition it.
    Try it on some scraps, I think you will be pleased with the results :D:D:D
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    Old 06-17-2010, 10:47 AM
      #35  
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    I had to check and see what ply my piecing thread is (Masterpiece) and it is 2 ply so I'm doing that right so far. I'm going to try the glue basting and see if that doesn't help get me a little closer. My pattern just calls for a 1/4" seam, so I haven't been trying to make it a scant one. Honestly, I don't really know how to make a scant 1/4 be the exact same "scant" everytime. It's much easier for me to follow my 1/4" mark on my foot and table.

    I appreciate all the suggestions and even if I don't use them for this quilt, I know I'll need them down the road for some other project! Thanks everyone!
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    Old 06-17-2010, 10:49 AM
      #36  
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    Can you move your needle to the right one or two clicks to get a scant 1/4"?
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    Old 06-17-2010, 10:50 AM
      #37  
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    and also try adjusting your stitch length a bit longer too.
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    Old 06-17-2010, 10:52 AM
      #38  
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    I just move my needle to get the scant and still used my foot with the 1/4 inch, it seems to work so far
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    Old 06-17-2010, 12:22 PM
      #39  
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    Originally Posted by amma
    Can you move your needle to the right one or two clicks to get a scant 1/4"?
    Oh my goodness, why didn't I think of that?! Yes, I can move my needle all sorts of ways. It's amazing how the most simple things just never come to mind! Thank you!
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    Old 06-17-2010, 12:29 PM
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    Originally Posted by Rachelcb80
    Originally Posted by amma
    Can you move your needle to the right one or two clicks to get a scant 1/4"?
    Oh my goodness, why didn't I think of that?! Yes, I can move my needle all sorts of ways. It's amazing how the most simple things just never come to mind! Thank you!
    This can make a big difference.

    Just sew a few strips together and see for yourself!
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