Going out of my head with matching chevrons!
#11
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,660
Is this the effect you are trying for?
For the first section - is your template/pattern right?
My units have turned out better when I would mark each piece where I have placed a dark circle and then matched the dots.
I do lop (cut) off some of the long tails on the unit - but I usually leave about 1/2 inch seam allowance on them. They are easier for me to handle and usually turn our better when I leave that extra amount on the tails.
The chevron - I would deal with it in whatever manner I usually do flying geese units - some people use squares and trim - some people use the "exact" shape - I would probably do squares and trim.
the difference being that the center ends up being a parallelogram instead of a triangle.
For the first section - is your template/pattern right?
My units have turned out better when I would mark each piece where I have placed a dark circle and then matched the dots.
I do lop (cut) off some of the long tails on the unit - but I usually leave about 1/2 inch seam allowance on them. They are easier for me to handle and usually turn our better when I leave that extra amount on the tails.
The chevron - I would deal with it in whatever manner I usually do flying geese units - some people use squares and trim - some people use the "exact" shape - I would probably do squares and trim.
the difference being that the center ends up being a parallelogram instead of a triangle.
Last edited by bearisgray; 05-10-2019 at 08:39 AM.
#12
I think I would redo the offending side of the block so it matched up. I think they shorted the angled tip to end at the wrong place. It looks like you could re-draw the temple by laying a piece of templet plastic over the old one and re-drawing the angle. Do this for both pieces add the seam allowances and then it should match up perfectly.
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Brooklyn Park, MN
Posts: 261
The star point was a template and paper pieced. The chevrons were squares and then trimmed to 2"x3.5". I am wishing I hadn't trimmed them and waited until they were pieced together w/the star points. Oh well, I guess you live and learn.
Thanks for all of the responses - greaty appreciated.
Thanks for all of the responses - greaty appreciated.
#15
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,660
What is the "finished" and "unfinished" size of each unit supposed to be?
After looking at the picture more carefully - it looks to me like the left side of the chevron unit was cut narrower than the right side.
I measured the unit "on-screen" - and even allowing for seam allowances, I am thinking that the left side is cut about 1/4 inch narrower than the right side of it.
How are you making the chevron units?
After looking at the picture more carefully - it looks to me like the left side of the chevron unit was cut narrower than the right side.
I measured the unit "on-screen" - and even allowing for seam allowances, I am thinking that the left side is cut about 1/4 inch narrower than the right side of it.
How are you making the chevron units?
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Brooklyn Park, MN
Posts: 261
Each side of the chevron was 2"x3.5 and when sewn together block measured 3.5" square. Maybe it looks like the left side is narrower because it has already been sewn to the star point w/1/4" seam? I think I have learned that in the future I should actually make an entire block in its entirety before cutting and sewing all of the units. I am thinking that had I not trimmed my chevrons prior to sewing them to the star points I could have trimmed them After sewing them together and saved a bit of the unevenness. But I truly appreciate everyone's hints/impressions, as I am not a pro-quilt maker and have major issues with math/measurements and am totally open to learning from others and greatly appreciate the feedback. This is such a wonderful board and everyone is very generous in trying to help others.
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 05-10-2019 at 11:21 AM. Reason: shouting/all caps
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Brooklyn Park, MN
Posts: 261
I think it looks bigger because it was paper pieced and that's where I trimmed it. In my mind, I'm thinking that since it was paper pieced That piece should be perfect and something's off w/the darned chevrons.
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 05-10-2019 at 11:21 AM. Reason: shouting/all caps
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: SW, MI
Posts: 827
That's what I do also, and here's how I do it:
Put your patches right sides together. On the top fabric, stick a pin in the very center of the seam (right between the fabrics), 1/4" away from the raw edge. Slide the fabric up the pin so you can see the bottom fabric, and stick the pin in the very center of that seam, 1/4" away from the raw edge. Put a drop of Elmer's washable school glue in the seam allowance and press to set the glue. Remove pin and stitch seam. If you like to press your seams open, simply run a stiletto between the seams to un-glue them.
One of the things I've discovered is sometimes, even if you use a 1/4" seam, you have to move one of the fabrics in or out by 1/16" or 1/8" to get the seams to match.
Put your patches right sides together. On the top fabric, stick a pin in the very center of the seam (right between the fabrics), 1/4" away from the raw edge. Slide the fabric up the pin so you can see the bottom fabric, and stick the pin in the very center of that seam, 1/4" away from the raw edge. Put a drop of Elmer's washable school glue in the seam allowance and press to set the glue. Remove pin and stitch seam. If you like to press your seams open, simply run a stiletto between the seams to un-glue them.
One of the things I've discovered is sometimes, even if you use a 1/4" seam, you have to move one of the fabrics in or out by 1/16" or 1/8" to get the seams to match.
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: The Deep South near Cajun Country, USA
Posts: 5,434
A lot of good advice here. What is the name of the pattern you are doing? I use Peckish's method of pinning where it is matching and then carefully sewing and still don't always get the best fit. And, I agree with the theory about not trimming the block down until all pieces match up and are sewn. It sure makes it a lot easier to square up.
Last edited by Barb in Louisiana; 05-10-2019 at 01:18 PM.
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