newbee3

your quilting is superb

quiltjoey

Have the GT paper I purchased a while back but haven't used it! Your work is inspiring and beautiful!

katybob

I've used it several times. I trace or draw the design on the paper with pencil then safety pin the paper to the quilt and sew along the pencil lines.

patchsamkim

I have used the Golden Threads paper, and also use examining table paper (have a friend order for me).

Valerie Ann

Thank you, thank you! I'm off to GT website and buying some as my stocking stuffer!

mommessy

I haven't tried this paper yet, and chances are I won't because of Craftsy classes also! I am enrolled in several FMQ classes with different instructors and I have learned so much. They are well worth the money. I think Ann Petersen may be my favorite.

Phyllis nm

THIS MAY OR NOT BE HELPFUL ALWAYS TEST ON SCRAP

CHALK
For 25 years I have done freehand embroidery work and this has worked best for me.
I ground up different colors of chalk in my mill grinder to see what worked best [what could be seen and removed]. White chalk [baby power, or corn starch] can be vacuumed off on med and dark fabric no problem.
Other colors can be reduced in color intense with white, the more intense the color the harder it is to remove. I just use white and light blue now, the blue is reduced with white. Blue and white chalk is at hardware stores for snap lines [cheap].
You can use a vanishing power with a black light on any color [in the dark]. It is very good for names.

PAPER
I use canary paper from an art or drafting supply.
I tear off more than I need and trace a design with 5mm mechanical pencil, place on a piece of ¼” foam rubber on a firm surface. Then I use a small needle syringe [for shots] and poke holes into the lines at key points about 1/8[SUP]th[/SUP]” apart following the design, then I flip it over and sand off the tips with a sanding block or sand paper. I have also used a clear plastic film a permanent marker and sanded the tips, or a small stencil burner. When sanding place pattern on foam or batting, not on a hard surface, to much pressure you might tear your pattern. Mark top front with an “F” [north] so you know placement direction. This way you can tell which way your pattern is laying, and it is easy to reverse, or flip.
Then I have a reusable pattern I can use over and over.

APPLYING CHALK
I took a short wide mouth ball jar lid and a nail [or drill] punched a lot of holes in it.
Took a ¼”green scrubber cut it to fit inside rim on top of the lid.
Took a scrap of velour about 3/8” larger than the lid and placed it on top of the scrubber then screwed the hole thing together onto the jar with my chalk in it. You will have to pounce a while till the chalk starts coming through good. Wipe off your pattern before replacing it so you don’t get shadows.
I did this, years before any thing else was on the market, and still use the same ones today.

You can use cinnamon to mark on light fabric then wash it away.
I add white chalk to dark blue powered, the blue and red does not want to wash out.

PATTERN MARKING
Holding your pattern down firm with one hand, slide your chalk jar across your pattern in one direction only, you can repeat as long as you do not let up with your first hand. You can see if you need to slide again as long as the first hand stays in place. If it is wrong, vacuum it off and start over.

ON A QUILT MACHINE:
I use a piece of Plexiglas about 48x20 and slide it between my batting and my quilt top. This makes a firmer surface to stencil on. Then I take my pattern stencil and place it where I want it, swipe it with powder. Slide the Plexiglas out and quilt. Then vacuum the power off later.

If unsure where to place your pattern on the quilt after it is on the machine try this. Draw placement lines on your pattern, north-south-east-west. [Fold in half matching center both directions]. Mark your top with an X placement before you load it on the machine. Then you have your placement mark and don’t have to guess alignment.

I just read that if you hair spray your pattern after applying it the chalk stays on till washed. I have not tried it yet.

LETTERING
I have made charts of script alphabets in different sizes 1”-2”-ect. on large sheets of card stock paper. [ years ago, with a projector.] Then I trace and connect my words to transfer to my garment or quilt. Now copy machines are the answer.

Canary paper I buy at a book store across form UNM. They have it at drafting supply stores,12” to 24” wide.

littlebitoheaven

I used pins as this was for a narrow border. Next time I am going to try the Elmer's Sticky Dots that another Board member said she uses.

Capri

Pin it on = less cost. You can also use regular greaseproof paper (the unwaxed kind from the supermarket). I had to as I ran out on a Sunday. It's very good too. If you're making a template to pounce, you can save time by only drawing the design on the top of a stack of up to 9 sheets of greaseproof or GT paper, stitch the lines, turn upside down and place on the quilt to pounce. Works really well and fast for multiple designs/borders.

omaluvs2quilt

I use it regularly, just the way you did, only I pounce thru it so I don't have to tear the pamper away. I found I was spending too much time tearing paper as well as it being slippery while stitching. I also tried tracing paper, but like the golden threads much better!