Help with binding
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: AR/NM
Posts: 358
Help with binding
I would like to learn how to make a perfect machine sewn binding that finishes at about 3/8 to 1/2 inches wide on both sides. I watched several you tube videos, but still cannot get what I want. I always have to finish the back side by hand stitching in order to cover the stitch line from the initial sewing on the front side. I would like to SID from the front side and catch the edge of binding underneath. I use a 2 1/2 inch wide strip, folded double. Should I cut my strip 2 3/4" wide?
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
#2
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 41,548
I cut my binding at 2-1/4 for 1/4 inch binding but find it impossible to get a straight line of stitching from the front to catch all of the back binding edge. I have tried pins, clips and dots of glue but I am never happy. If you use a fancy stitch it works better but not perfect.
If I want to machine stitch my bindings, I always use Charisma's Quick Machine Binding with flange tutorial here on QB. She gives the measurements for finished 1/4 inch binding with 1/8 inch flange that you stitch down from the front. If you match your thread to the backing it matches right in. If you wanted the binding to finish at 1/2 inch with a flange, you would change the measurements of your binding strips. I think it would work out to be a 2 inch strip for the flange colour and a 1-3/4 inch strip for the binding and they are sewn together and folded. Try a sample and see how you like it.
If I want to machine stitch my bindings, I always use Charisma's Quick Machine Binding with flange tutorial here on QB. She gives the measurements for finished 1/4 inch binding with 1/8 inch flange that you stitch down from the front. If you match your thread to the backing it matches right in. If you wanted the binding to finish at 1/2 inch with a flange, you would change the measurements of your binding strips. I think it would work out to be a 2 inch strip for the flange colour and a 1-3/4 inch strip for the binding and they are sewn together and folded. Try a sample and see how you like it.
#3
Super Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,391
I usually use 2 1/2in. width binding, but occasionally a narrower one.
I put the ironing board (folded) on the edge of the bed, lay the quilt on the bed, back side up, and work there. The bed holds the weight of the quilt so it is easier to work around the quilt.
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Horse Country, FL
Posts: 7,341
Try the 2 3/4" strip on a small something...like a potholder and see how you like it. I don't show my quilts and finally decided to do machine stitching on the binding finish...so I finish it on the front rather than on the back. Not too many folks are going to look at or criticize any wobbles on the back.
#5
Power Poster
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 19,127
It is near to impossible to sew thru so much bulk and get a perfectly straight stitch. You might want to Google "flange binding" because at least you can hide your stitches in the ditch that is created. I have always preferred doing the binding the old fashion way. It just looks neater and cleaner. I won Best of Show twice and many blue ribbons doing my binding that way.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 376
I machine bind about half of my quilts. I make my strips 2.5", fold down the center and press. Then stitch it to the BACK side using a .25" seam allowance. Then take it to the ironing board and press up that seam, fold using clips to secure, then stitch down using an edge foot. I should point out, I have a Bernina with dual feed, and the dual feed edge stitch foot works similarly to a walkng foot. I'm extremely pleased with the outcome using this method. Though show quilts and scalloped edge quilts always get hand binding.
#7
I have the same problem but I'd rather go over the missed sections than do the binding
by hand. I think there are two reasons why we don't reach the stitch line...either we
didn't stitch a straight 3/8" or we didn't trim our quilt properly. It happens.
If you have a lot of miss I would follow coopah's suggestion and cut the binding
a little wider. I've done it and it works better. Most of the time I forget. Oops. LOL
It also helps to do a running stitch along the edges of the quilt before applying
the binding. Do you use washable school glue when applying your binding?
It helps to sew straight because you don't have to struggle with pins, clips, etc.
I glue one side at a time.
I also make a better binding if I remember to make a test piece:-).
For example, a quilt with a piano key border is a lot thicker at the edge and
usually needs more than 2.5". The thickness of fabric and thread will also
make a difference.
by hand. I think there are two reasons why we don't reach the stitch line...either we
didn't stitch a straight 3/8" or we didn't trim our quilt properly. It happens.
If you have a lot of miss I would follow coopah's suggestion and cut the binding
a little wider. I've done it and it works better. Most of the time I forget. Oops. LOL
It also helps to do a running stitch along the edges of the quilt before applying
the binding. Do you use washable school glue when applying your binding?
It helps to sew straight because you don't have to struggle with pins, clips, etc.
I glue one side at a time.
I also make a better binding if I remember to make a test piece:-).
For example, a quilt with a piano key border is a lot thicker at the edge and
usually needs more than 2.5". The thickness of fabric and thread will also
make a difference.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
craftybear
Links and Resources
0
11-03-2011 01:23 PM
craftybear
Links and Resources
3
05-07-2011 10:05 AM
craftybear
Links and Resources
3
12-25-2010 09:49 PM