Watson

I am doing a paper piecing pattern that is supposed to end up as a 12 1/2" block. Each time I do it, it ends up 12". The last time I did it I was really careful at every step and still got 12".

Also, there are two areas on the outside of the block that don't meet up. Two of the smaller blocks seem to be cut off and there is no 1/4 allowance and I am also losing where they are supposed to meet up each time. Or, does it even matter if the outside edges don't line up because they will be caught in the seam allowance when the next block is sewn on?

I've checked the pattern and it is correct...the pieces that go together to make a block are mirror images of each other and are exactly the same size.

Any ideas? Tips?

Watson

Here's a pic to show you what I mean about not meeting up. Clear as mud?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]593470[/ATTACH]

SusieQOH

I see what you mean. How frustrating!
I have no advice but I'm sure the others will.
Hope you find a solution.

gingerd

Do you have the "add an 1/8" ruler or only the 1/4?

I've learned that I use the narrower one if I want my sections larger.

Here's what my girlfriend says and I have learned to believe it.........if you are consistent that is all that matters.

Where they don't line up can you rip those sections only and stretch the fabric?

ILoveToQuilt

It almost appears that the white sections just above the "off" bands are different sizes. Are you extremely accurate with sewing on the line? Make sure you do not stretch the fabric at all. Sometimes it helps to pin the points of the patches where they meet. I put a pin straight down on one point and match it to the corresponding point on the next patch. (One pin through two pieces - do not "weave" the pin it). I don't know how to draw this, but I will try to use my keyboard to illustrate:

l
l pin
l________
l
l
l_________
l

Hope this is clear. After I match the points, I "weave" a pin through the patch to hold the seams accurately. Remove the up/down pin and sew.

Also: how are you copying the foundation papers? Make sure you copy all of them at the same time, on the same printer/copier. There are slight variations between copiers and this will throw off your accurate seams. To make sure all foundations are the same, hold a couple (one on top of the other) up to a strong light and see if they match up.

If you need to unsew a seam, rip out the stitches, then use scotch tape over the printed line (Scotch makes a removable tape in a blue plaid dispenser. This works really well.) Resew though the taped line.

Can't think of anything else at this point. I do a lot of paper piecing and sometimes I, too, have these problems. Often times, you can fudge the seams - a little stretch here, a resewn line there.

Good luck. Hopefully others here on QB will have more suggestions.

PaperPrincess

:I had one pattern that didn't include the final 1/4" seam allowance around the edge. Double check the paper foundation itself. Print off 4 of the units and fold back the seams where the wedges join up. Tape them together and measure the half block.

QuiltE

ditto ditto ditto ..... to the earlier suggestions!!!

Perhaps enlarge your PP patterns to more than 100% until you get to the 12-1/2"?
Make sure that there is 1/4" seam allowances on the original, or add them.

Also, I always let my fabric go over the outside seam edges when doing the PPing.
Then trim to the perfect size after papers are off and it has been fully pressed.

Your asked whether it mattered if they line up on the outside edge?
Yes, of course ... you'll find there is a wonderful secondary pattern that will show, and if you don't have the matches, the flaws will show all the more.

You do stunning work ... don't let temptation let you down this time!

IceLeopard

That was my thought too, that maybe the seam allowances weren't included and you didn't realize it. Some otherwise great pattern makers do that (and it drives me nuts!) I always make one copy, mark out the seam allowance, and use that as my master.

Macybaby

I've had this happen too - with each and every one of the 50 stars of Carol Doak's pattern. I found when I started removing the paper before sewing the sections together and then using a scant seam, things improved.

But if I sewed the sections together using the lines on the paper, I got a full 1/4" seam (or more) and then the finished block was too small.

Now, I always do the sections, trim and remove the paper. Then I sew them together just like they were non-paper peiced blocks. I have so much better luck getting everything to line up correctly that way.

wondermom

Did you print the template yourself? The one and only paper-pieced block I did came out 11 3/4 instead of 12.5 because it had been printed out incorrectly.

Just a thought.

nativetexan

my thought too. otherwise it would be seams.