yngldy

How big is your circle? I make a circle out of cardboard (cereal box, etc) and cut fabric about 1/2" larger all around. Then hand baste around the circle, like making a yo-yo and draw thread up tight around the circle but don't tie it. Give it a good press, then remove cardboard. Use glue stick to tack circle to base fabric and press again to make "crisp". Flip and cut "back" fabric away. Open out circle from back and stitch on pressed circle line. When I did mine, the circle was about 11" so I didn't have to clip which kept the circle round. First time I tried it that way, so don't know if it is as easy when smaller. If making drunkard's path, cut in 1/4's. Hope I explained it well. Good luck.

NJ Quilter

What I haven't seen mentioned so far is to make sure you clip your seam allowance. Granted this goes back to garment sewing days but the theory still holds. If you clip your seam allowances at very close intervals it does flatten your piece. You will be have to careful not to make your snips too deep. Or cut your piece larger than the normal 1/4", mark your seam lines and then clip. And use LOTS of pins. HTH.

Grambi

This is exactly the reply I was going to make. I had no luck with the CurveMaster but did have luck with the technique they show and my 1/4" foot.

Tartan

I am not clear. Are you insetting curves and circles (Drunkard's Path) or applique stitching around circles? If insetting then pin often, sew slowly and readjust the fabric and foot while you are in needle down position. If appliquing, sew slowly with an open toe foot so you can see where you are going. Stop with the needle down on the outside of the circle to readjust the fabric for a smooth job.

AliKat

I have never snipped seam allowances and my curves turn out really great. I do divide the curve into portions equally. If one section is longer then that is what goes on the bottom when sewing .... relaxed bottom. I use my long bent angled tweezers to line up the seams as I sew. I also separate the two layers of material with a finger til I get to where there isn't any more room for a finger. Works for me.

ali

Peckish

One tip I don't see listed is to put the convex curve on top of the concave curve.

(in case you have trouble remembering which is convex and which is concave, convex is the well-endowed piece. Concave is not. )

MacThayer

Piecing is an art unto itself. To learn to do it, and do it well, requires patience, practice, and guidance. There is one book I can recommend, and I do recommend you get it at Alibris. It's an online bookstore with rock bottom prices. I have picked up quilting books there for as low as .99¢, no joke. The web site is:http://www.alibris.com/booksearch.de...isting-_-title That will take you right to the book. The book I'm thinking of for you is called: Piecing: Expanding the Basics, by Ruth McDowell.

The description of the book reads: "A guide to piecing, looking at techniques for piecing curved seams, insets, multiple angles, Z seams, Y seams, puzzle seams, diagonals, intersecting seams and slipped seams. Each technique is explained step-by-step with problem solving tips and hints on fabric selection and working style."

I have this book, and can vouch for its usefulness. It seems every pattern I come across want you to "avoid" Y-seams, and other difficult seams. But you don't have to do that. With a little patience and practice, you can do these like a pro. They're not as hard as you think.

This was one of my more expensive books. It cost me $5.75. Usually I don't buy books over $5.00. Do understand these are used books, not in perfect condition. If you don't mind that, and you don't mind paying less than $5.00, there are a zillion (well, maybe not that many) books on every aspect of quilting you can imagine in this store. Of course you can spent more money. But if you just keep hunting, no doubt you'll find something a lot more reasonable in the subject you want. People have been writing about the same topics for a long time.

Just a thought.