How do I "pretreat" batiks? I need your advice!
#1
I have purchased assorted batiks to do the Tradewinds quilt. This is my first time using batiks so I need some advice. I usually do not prewash my fabrics but I know that batiks are different. Do I wash them in hot, warm, or cold water? Do I add white vinegar or salt to set the fabric dyes? Should I use a Shout color catcher? Can I wash all the colors at the same time or do I need to do each individually or separate them into lights and darks? I have invested more money than usual in this fabric and want to do it right! Any help or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks!
#4
You'll want to use Retayne. It will set in the dyes.
I had 20 green batiks that I set. You can put a bunch of fabrics into one Retayne bath, but I didn't want to risk the batiks bleeding into each other (some excess dye will shed...that's normal) and setting into each other. I know its possible because one of the fabrics I did bled a lot and the selvage went from white to green. So to be extra safe I did them separately. Its a little bit more work, but I think its worth it if it means knowing for sure I'm not going to ruin my fabrics.
I had four separate containers to keep the fabrics in. I usually had the same amount of yardage in each bowl (like a quarter yard in each bowl). I figured out how much water was needed to completely cover the fabric in each bowl and then boiled that much water to 140F degrees. The water has to be HOT for the Retayne to work. Then the Retayne went in...its 1 tsp per yard of fabric. I usually had a quarter yard in each bowl---equaling one whole yard---so I put in 1 tsp. Then the water got poured into the bowls, barely covering the fabric. Let sit for 20 minutes, stirring occassionally. Once 20 minutes passed I rinsed the fabrics in cold water, squeezed the excess water, and hung them up to dry. I had a lot of fabrics that were less than a yard so I set more fabrics until I had enough for a decent load of laundry. When they were dry I separated them (lights/darks/similar colors) and washed them normally...I typically wash mine cold anyways, but the bottle says do not wash hot. I do throw in a Shout Color Catcher just in case I didn't rinse my fabrics out good enough, but if you did it right then the color catcher will come out white.
I had 20 green batiks that I set. You can put a bunch of fabrics into one Retayne bath, but I didn't want to risk the batiks bleeding into each other (some excess dye will shed...that's normal) and setting into each other. I know its possible because one of the fabrics I did bled a lot and the selvage went from white to green. So to be extra safe I did them separately. Its a little bit more work, but I think its worth it if it means knowing for sure I'm not going to ruin my fabrics.
I had four separate containers to keep the fabrics in. I usually had the same amount of yardage in each bowl (like a quarter yard in each bowl). I figured out how much water was needed to completely cover the fabric in each bowl and then boiled that much water to 140F degrees. The water has to be HOT for the Retayne to work. Then the Retayne went in...its 1 tsp per yard of fabric. I usually had a quarter yard in each bowl---equaling one whole yard---so I put in 1 tsp. Then the water got poured into the bowls, barely covering the fabric. Let sit for 20 minutes, stirring occassionally. Once 20 minutes passed I rinsed the fabrics in cold water, squeezed the excess water, and hung them up to dry. I had a lot of fabrics that were less than a yard so I set more fabrics until I had enough for a decent load of laundry. When they were dry I separated them (lights/darks/similar colors) and washed them normally...I typically wash mine cold anyways, but the bottle says do not wash hot. I do throw in a Shout Color Catcher just in case I didn't rinse my fabrics out good enough, but if you did it right then the color catcher will come out white.
#5
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Dupont, WA
Posts: 1,063
Originally Posted by Flying_V_Goddess
You'll want to use Retayne. It will set in the dyes.
I had 20 green batiks that I set. You can put a bunch of fabrics into one Retayne bath, but I didn't want to risk the batiks bleeding into each other (some excess dye will shed...that's normal) and setting into each other. I know its possible because one of the fabrics I did bled a lot and the selvage went from white to green. So to be extra safe I did them separately. Its a little bit more work, but I think its worth it if it means knowing for sure I'm not going to ruin my fabrics.
I had four separate containers to keep the fabrics in. I usually had the same amount of yardage in each bowl (like a quarter yard in each bowl). I figured out how much water was needed to completely cover the fabric in each bowl and then boiled that much water to 140F degrees. The water has to be HOT for the Retayne to work. Then the Retayne went in...its 1 tsp per yard of fabric. I usually had a quarter yard in each bowl---equaling one whole yard---so I put in 1 tsp. Then the water got poured into the bowls, barely covering the fabric. Let sit for 20 minutes, stirring occassionally. Once 20 minutes passed I rinsed the fabrics in cold water, squeezed the excess water, and hung them up to dry. I had a lot of fabrics that were less than a yard so I set more fabrics until I had enough for a decent load of laundry. When they were dry I separated them (lights/darks/similar colors) and washed them normally...I typically wash mine cold anyways, but the bottle says do not wash hot. I do throw in a Shout Color Catcher just in case I didn't rinse my fabrics out good enough, but if you did it right then the color catcher will come out white.
I had 20 green batiks that I set. You can put a bunch of fabrics into one Retayne bath, but I didn't want to risk the batiks bleeding into each other (some excess dye will shed...that's normal) and setting into each other. I know its possible because one of the fabrics I did bled a lot and the selvage went from white to green. So to be extra safe I did them separately. Its a little bit more work, but I think its worth it if it means knowing for sure I'm not going to ruin my fabrics.
I had four separate containers to keep the fabrics in. I usually had the same amount of yardage in each bowl (like a quarter yard in each bowl). I figured out how much water was needed to completely cover the fabric in each bowl and then boiled that much water to 140F degrees. The water has to be HOT for the Retayne to work. Then the Retayne went in...its 1 tsp per yard of fabric. I usually had a quarter yard in each bowl---equaling one whole yard---so I put in 1 tsp. Then the water got poured into the bowls, barely covering the fabric. Let sit for 20 minutes, stirring occassionally. Once 20 minutes passed I rinsed the fabrics in cold water, squeezed the excess water, and hung them up to dry. I had a lot of fabrics that were less than a yard so I set more fabrics until I had enough for a decent load of laundry. When they were dry I separated them (lights/darks/similar colors) and washed them normally...I typically wash mine cold anyways, but the bottle says do not wash hot. I do throw in a Shout Color Catcher just in case I didn't rinse my fabrics out good enough, but if you did it right then the color catcher will come out white.
#6
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: close to the grand babies!!!
Posts: 2,170
[quote=maine ladybug]I use Retayne and hot water. I soak them for a few minutes and rinse. Then wash as usual.[/quo
I've never heard of Retayne. What exactly is it and where do you find it?
Thanks in advance for all your answers.
I've never heard of Retayne. What exactly is it and where do you find it?
Thanks in advance for all your answers.
#7
Power Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 12,861
retayne is a color fixative- which will stop the running (after the excess dye is washed away. Batiks always have excess dye- just part of the process---
vinegar will not set the dye. it only works on acid dyes- which are not used on cottons- but used on wools- and some synthetics.
retayne can be purchased at (some lqs) places like joannes/hobby lobby or places like Dharma Trading Company (which is a textile dye company which carries everything you need to dye your own fabrics (including batiks)plus they are worth a visit just because then have tons of free information- and can help you in alot of ways when dealing with fabrics/dyeing/ setting colors/ even photo printing.
follow the instructions on the retayne bottle- and sort the fabrics lights/darks
remove them from the washer right away- don't let them sit on each other wet.
and color catchers will certainly help you know they are not still running.
another good product to have on hand is synthropol- it is a water additive that will keep (fugative dyes- dye that does run)from getting on other fabrics in the wash- so if you do have a bleeder- it will not bleed on others-the fugative dye stays in the water. both products are very good to keep on hand.
vinegar will not set the dye. it only works on acid dyes- which are not used on cottons- but used on wools- and some synthetics.
retayne can be purchased at (some lqs) places like joannes/hobby lobby or places like Dharma Trading Company (which is a textile dye company which carries everything you need to dye your own fabrics (including batiks)plus they are worth a visit just because then have tons of free information- and can help you in alot of ways when dealing with fabrics/dyeing/ setting colors/ even photo printing.
follow the instructions on the retayne bottle- and sort the fabrics lights/darks
remove them from the washer right away- don't let them sit on each other wet.
and color catchers will certainly help you know they are not still running.
another good product to have on hand is synthropol- it is a water additive that will keep (fugative dyes- dye that does run)from getting on other fabrics in the wash- so if you do have a bleeder- it will not bleed on others-the fugative dye stays in the water. both products are very good to keep on hand.
#9
Originally Posted by dyer804
I have purchased assorted batiks to do the Tradewinds quilt. This is my first time using batiks so I need some advice. I usually do not prewash my fabrics but I know that batiks are different. Do I wash them in hot, warm, or cold water? - *YES, HOT WATER (see notes below)
Do I add white vinegar or salt to set the fabric dyes?
*NO - waste of time and money
Should I use a Shout color catcher? *YES, could help
Can I wash all the colors at the same time or do I need to do each individually or separate them into lights and darks?
*SEPARATE OUT LIGHTS, DARKS. RED, ALWAYS, ALWAYS ALONE
I have invested more money than usual in this fabric and want to do it right! Any help or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks!
Do I add white vinegar or salt to set the fabric dyes?
*NO - waste of time and money
Should I use a Shout color catcher? *YES, could help
Can I wash all the colors at the same time or do I need to do each individually or separate them into lights and darks?
*SEPARATE OUT LIGHTS, DARKS. RED, ALWAYS, ALWAYS ALONE
I have invested more money than usual in this fabric and want to do it right! Any help or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks!
Thanks for posting. THis is a great chance to dispel
some myths etc. I am a hand dyer of cotton and silks. I have also made batiks in classroom several times.
1. Batiks are made by applying wax with stamps called Tjaps (pronounced "chops") primarily in Indonesia.. Higher count cotton is applied with wax, dyed and redyed. Each washing in hot water to release that dye color used also "melts" the wax and with the soap too it washes out.
2. Vinegar is used during the dye process to set "acid" dyes on silk, wool and other "protein" fiber (vs plant fiber-cotton). Acid doesn't mean you use actual acid. You can use citric acid - Fruit Fresh - or vinegar. The point is you are raising the ph to 4 (vs 11-less acidic for cotton) to set the dye particles. Using it after the dyeing is over is of no use. Dye is viable for only about 45 min in the dyebath. After that, the extra "spent" dye is in the dyebath. It is "used up" - particles that can attach have...you cannot "re-fix" with vinegar or any other acid.
3. Salt is used in the solution used to mix cotton dye into a liquid concentrate. It is also used in the container you dye in with the water and liquid concentrate. Salt increases the electron activity and "pushes" the dye particles into the dye fibers. It is indespensible in getting bright, intense colors during the dye process. Once it is dyed, it is of no further use.
4. Others talk about the color catchers as being helpful. I have never used them. As a dyer I use a product called Synthropol (soapish liquid) or Reyatne to pre-wash fabric others give me. Both of these products isolate the used up, but UN-WASHED out dye particles. You only need a TB per a load in the washer of fabric. I am told on the dying list I belong to that Dawn liquid diswashng soap-no perfume or dyes-is the same type of soap.
5. I always pre-wash. Just last moth, was in a hurry to finish a flannel quilt for my pre-teen boy with dogs. One wash in cold...the pale yellow released extra unwashed dye and is now a shade of pink. ALWAYS WASH. I think God was reminding me. As a dyer, I should know better. I tripple wash the hand dyes I make in hot water and the mentioned products. I STILL have problem sometimes. Especially red. It is the hardest dye particle to wash out effectively as it is a very small, almost dust size particle and can really wedge itself into the weave of the fabric.
A good pre test in a hurry is to put the fabric on an old towel. THen mist pretty heavy with warm water. Cover with paper towel sheets and put a book on top. Let it dry and check it. Even if you get nothing, pre-wash. If it is really bad you will know to maybe do it alone, in a lingere bag if small piece...or extra rinse etc. I hope some of this information helps.
GREAT questions and I would love to see a finished photo with the batiks. One quick point, batik has a higher thread count. You will need a larger tip, sharp needle. You will wear out your needle sooner. Also NO fabric softener in the dryer...the residue will really wear out your rotary blade. Best to dry mostly dry and then finish with an iron. Smaller pieces in hosiery bag. GOod luck.
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