How do I enlarge this pattern?
05-23-2017, 02:18 AM
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,729
here's a link to the pattern with dimensions - it's 48x60 - you'd have to add 12" across and 20" down
http://www.benartex.com/uploads/Imag...ht_pattern.pdf
http://www.benartex.com/uploads/Imag...ht_pattern.pdf
05-23-2017, 04:37 AM
#13
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,391
I see three borders around the outside. Wouldn't it be easy to make each border at least an inch wider? That would add 3 inches on each side (6 inches larger overall) and would not upset the proportions.
05-23-2017, 07:01 AM
#15
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,857
From a quick look (please verify dimensions), it looks like you could add 1/2" to the small blocks (both length and width). Make all your sashing 1/2" wider and cut the lengths to fit the new blocks. The strip piece looks like it is 1 1/2 x's wider than the small block so add 3/4" to the width and whatever equals to make it the length of the bigger small blocks and spacing. For the bigger block, make the small dark brown border 1/2" wider and the big piece to fit. This sounds confusing in words, but if you draw the small square on paper and then build around it, it should make sense (thank goodness for graph paper!). This is going to get you close to the bigger size, then just add an additional border to balance it.
05-23-2017, 10:35 AM
#16
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 12,861
I would use graph paper and sketch the quilt out figuring my measurements that way. Graph paper is one of my constant use sewing room tools. Would be lost without it, and would probably have poorly sized quilts. 
I used to mess up sizing a lot until I learned to start with graph paper and draw the frame- the size I want the quilt to be, then I fill in the center to fit. -- don't forget to add your seam allowances when you cut though.
I used to mess up sizing a lot until I learned to start with graph paper and draw the frame- the size I want the quilt to be, then I fill in the center to fit. -- don't forget to add your seam allowances when you cut though.
05-23-2017, 10:49 AM
#17
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Saskatchewan
Posts: 838
I played with this over lunch, and here is what I came up with. It finishes at 62" x 83".
[ATTACH=CONFIG]573518[/ATTACH]
The dimensions are in the attached pdf. I assumed you could get 43 1/2" of width from your fabric in the inner border (piece G1); if you can't, make it whatever length you can get, and lengthen E2 to compensate.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]573518[/ATTACH]
The dimensions are in the attached pdf. I assumed you could get 43 1/2" of width from your fabric in the inner border (piece G1); if you can't, make it whatever length you can get, and lengthen E2 to compensate.
05-23-2017, 11:58 AM
#18
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pittsburg, Kansas
Posts: 1,691
I have taken patterns to be enlarged to the college and had the printing dept. enlarge. There is a magic formula they use and it comes out perfect every time. Might cost $.25 or so depending on how large.
Good luck!
Mariah
A print shop could do it also. They don't like those small projects as it slows them down on the big ones
Good luck!
Mariah
A print shop could do it also. They don't like those small projects as it slows them down on the big ones
05-24-2017, 05:57 AM
#20
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maine
Posts: 873
First, 60X80 is not the same proportion as 48X60. 60 is 25% larger than 48, but 80 is 33% larger than 60. So you need to be shooting at 60X75 or 64X80. Get out your calculator and take the sides of each piece and multiply them times 1.25 or 1.33, whichever you choose as your number. So, if you have a 4" square, it's 4 X 1.25=5. A 5X22 strip would be 6 1/4 X 25. That's pretty easy. The problem is when you have 6 1/2 x 1.33 which is 8.64. That's about 8 2/3, which doesn't work for quilting. The 1.33 will be more difficult to work with, as you may end up with some weird dimensions, but just add a consistent % to every piece in both directions and adjust up or down to the nearest 1/4 inch. Be consistent though - either round up or down.
If I used the 1.33 measurement, I think I would assemble the two pieced parts (the squares and the long strips) and measure carefully. Add enough extra to the dark brown sashing around the large bird prints to make it match the width of the pieced parts. You may have to add a little to the tan sashing, so I would cut the sashing after assembling the piecing. Just keep a photo of the first quilt in case you have to check which lines have match up visually to get the look you want. Since you don't have any points to match, you should be able to adjust here and there and still get the proportions you like so much in this quilt. Just keep everything pressed and measure. Remember, measure twice, cut once.
One more thing I do is keep a "measurement" page on the quilt I'm working on. Once I calculate anything, I write it down on that same page so I don't have to keep measuring and calculating. (I had one quilt that I calculated the backing on about three times.)
bkay
If I used the 1.33 measurement, I think I would assemble the two pieced parts (the squares and the long strips) and measure carefully. Add enough extra to the dark brown sashing around the large bird prints to make it match the width of the pieced parts. You may have to add a little to the tan sashing, so I would cut the sashing after assembling the piecing. Just keep a photo of the first quilt in case you have to check which lines have match up visually to get the look you want. Since you don't have any points to match, you should be able to adjust here and there and still get the proportions you like so much in this quilt. Just keep everything pressed and measure. Remember, measure twice, cut once.
One more thing I do is keep a "measurement" page on the quilt I'm working on. Once I calculate anything, I write it down on that same page so I don't have to keep measuring and calculating. (I had one quilt that I calculated the backing on about three times.)
bkay
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