How do I sew triangle on to rectangle? Help please
04-09-2013, 09:06 AM
#21
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Littlefield, TX, USA
Posts: 1,077
I am assuming the grid is 1" squares.
I am going to assume the larger piece on the bottom of your drawing is 6-1/2" tall (looks a bit less, but you can always trim at the plain edge). That said:
The larger block should be cut 7-1/2" wide x 7" tall (this gives you a 1/4" seam allowance).
The top section:
Cut the middle fabric color 7-1/2" wide x 3" tall (again, this gives you the 1/4" seam allowance).
Your side pieces need to be 2-1/2" wide by 3" tall ( this includes the seam allowance.
Draw a diagonal line down the center (wrong side) of the side pieces..from the tall (3") corner down.
This line will be the stitching line. Note: I use a #2 pencil (the cheap mechinal pencils) to draw the lines..you want them really thin...if you have to mark on dark...use a light colored pencil..that is sharp.
You want to lay the end piece onto the end of the center fabric (right sides together)...matching the three edges...then stitch on the line (try to stay to the outside edge of the line). Once stitched, you want to open out the small fabric to make sure it will meet with the outside edge of the larger square exactly. Now is the time to make any adjustments needed to your stitching. Once you have made any needed adjustments (if any were needed), you want to press the seam (do not press open yet). Open out the pressed area & trim 1/4" from the sewn seam.
Now is the time to press the seam open, if that's what you want to do. I rarely press a seam open...that's a matter of preference though.
Hope this helps!
I am going to assume the larger piece on the bottom of your drawing is 6-1/2" tall (looks a bit less, but you can always trim at the plain edge). That said:
The larger block should be cut 7-1/2" wide x 7" tall (this gives you a 1/4" seam allowance).
The top section:
Cut the middle fabric color 7-1/2" wide x 3" tall (again, this gives you the 1/4" seam allowance).
Your side pieces need to be 2-1/2" wide by 3" tall ( this includes the seam allowance.
Draw a diagonal line down the center (wrong side) of the side pieces..from the tall (3") corner down.
This line will be the stitching line. Note: I use a #2 pencil (the cheap mechinal pencils) to draw the lines..you want them really thin...if you have to mark on dark...use a light colored pencil..that is sharp.
You want to lay the end piece onto the end of the center fabric (right sides together)...matching the three edges...then stitch on the line (try to stay to the outside edge of the line). Once stitched, you want to open out the small fabric to make sure it will meet with the outside edge of the larger square exactly. Now is the time to make any adjustments needed to your stitching. Once you have made any needed adjustments (if any were needed), you want to press the seam (do not press open yet). Open out the pressed area & trim 1/4" from the sewn seam.
Now is the time to press the seam open, if that's what you want to do. I rarely press a seam open...that's a matter of preference though.
Hope this helps!
I want to add a triangle to the ends to make a rectangle...and for the life of me I can not figure out what size to cut these. I am attaching a drawing I made. The finished width is 7" - each finished triangle will be 2 1/2" x 2". Can someone give me the dimensions of the 3 pieces I need to cut. The finished sizes are shown on the drawing too. I am ready to pull out all my hair! Thanks!
04-09-2013, 09:34 AM
#22
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Littlefield, TX, USA
Posts: 1,077
When sewing templates that are cut on a diagonal, you stager the ends...and they form a "V"...the center of the "V" should be your 1/4" seam allowance.
A good tip for making sure is to cut the template out along the stitching line (no seam allowance)& trace the template with no seam allowance onto the WRONG side of the fabrics NOTE: draw at least 1/4" past the corners of the templates (where the lines cross will be where you match up the two pieces for stitching. Leave at least 1/2" between each piece traced for cutting out the pieces with a 1/4" seam allowance (does not have to be exactly 1/4"). Now, you have pieces with the stitching lines drawn out on them.
As I mentioned above...drawing past the edges or corners of the templates will create a "+" at the corners...the very center of the "+" is what you match up to know where your diagonal seam ends should be.
There are some good tutorials on youtube on this.
A good tip for making sure is to cut the template out along the stitching line (no seam allowance)& trace the template with no seam allowance onto the WRONG side of the fabrics NOTE: draw at least 1/4" past the corners of the templates (where the lines cross will be where you match up the two pieces for stitching. Leave at least 1/2" between each piece traced for cutting out the pieces with a 1/4" seam allowance (does not have to be exactly 1/4"). Now, you have pieces with the stitching lines drawn out on them.
As I mentioned above...drawing past the edges or corners of the templates will create a "+" at the corners...the very center of the "+" is what you match up to know where your diagonal seam ends should be.
There are some good tutorials on youtube on this.
Thanks! That is what I have been doing. I knew Jan was really smart from reading her posts and suspected she had the solution, but I couldn't see it.
Then when a later post said to do a template...I tried that and couldn't figure out how to line it up to sew....then I saw how it had the right angles and looked like 1/2 a kite...that Jan was talking about. So then a made the template double (like a kite) and it works perfectly. I thought Jan had forgotten to add the seam allowance, but she was right again on size.
Sometimes my brain does not think well in abstract and this, for me, is very abstract. Thank you Jan, and all of you...you made me think...made me prove you right or wrong, y trying each direction. I will add a picture of what I have later... have to leave for an appointment.
Then when a later post said to do a template...I tried that and couldn't figure out how to line it up to sew....then I saw how it had the right angles and looked like 1/2 a kite...that Jan was talking about. So then a made the template double (like a kite) and it works perfectly. I thought Jan had forgotten to add the seam allowance, but she was right again on size.
Sometimes my brain does not think well in abstract and this, for me, is very abstract. Thank you Jan, and all of you...you made me think...made me prove you right or wrong, y trying each direction. I will add a picture of what I have later... have to leave for an appointment.
04-09-2013, 12:31 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Royse City Texas
Posts: 2,870
These snowballs won't be squares, but will look more like kites in their shape.
The graphic below was drawn for another project be still will work for yours; just turn the kite shape so the short side is along the bottom rather than the long side being along the bottom.
Jan in VA
The graphic below was drawn for another project be still will work for yours; just turn the kite shape so the short side is along the bottom rather than the long side being along the bottom.
Jan in VA
04-09-2013, 07:18 PM
#26
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 25
could you cut a 7 1/2" X 2 1/2" rectangle and 2 2 1/2" squares, putting right sides together, place a square at each end of the rectangle. Measure and mark 2" along the bottom, from bottom corners, and 1/4", along the top, from top corners. Draw diagonal line from top mark to corresponding bottom mark on each side. Sew along the lines you drew, trim as you would a snowball, 1/4" from your stiches. Press open "squares" along your seams. You may need to do a little trimming to size, but I think this might work.
04-09-2013, 09:48 PM
#27
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Bacliff, TX on Galveston Bay
Posts: 1,174
This is what I was going to tell you. If you use 1/4" seams, you add 1/2" to each measurement: 3" x
7 1/2" rectangle, and 2 1/2" x 3" small rectangles. This should work. Just be sure you use 1/4" seams.
7 1/2" rectangle, and 2 1/2" x 3" small rectangles. This should work. Just be sure you use 1/4" seams.
I must not have been very clear with my information. The drawing I show has the FINISHED sizes shown. When I follow your directions, and some of the others ...it comes out too small. When I add a 1/2" to each piece it comes out too long. and the triangle is not equal to the rectangle.
I really appreciate all the attempts! Maybe I am just not following the directions right. I will try again today to see why this isn't working for me.
I really appreciate all the attempts! Maybe I am just not following the directions right. I will try again today to see why this isn't working for me.
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