How Do You Bind?
#32
Super Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,391
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Most of the time, I sew the binding onto the front, then turn it to the back and stitch in the ditch from the front.
But I don't trim the quilt perfectly until the binding is sewn on. That way I can see to save my points when needed. After the binding is sewn on, then I trim the back and batt at exactly 3/8 of an inch from the sewing line. I use a 12 inch ruler and rotary cutter to make short cuts at the correct distance. (Watch out for the corners. Don't cut that fold in the binding as you turned the corner.) With a little extra batt there, you can get a full binding. I only pin it at the corners.
This method works well for straight cut binding. I wouldn't try it with bias binding.
But I don't trim the quilt perfectly until the binding is sewn on. That way I can see to save my points when needed. After the binding is sewn on, then I trim the back and batt at exactly 3/8 of an inch from the sewing line. I use a 12 inch ruler and rotary cutter to make short cuts at the correct distance. (Watch out for the corners. Don't cut that fold in the binding as you turned the corner.) With a little extra batt there, you can get a full binding. I only pin it at the corners.
This method works well for straight cut binding. I wouldn't try it with bias binding.
#33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 110
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Libits, What happens when the binding "is no longer perfect" for you? Is there too much binding on one side of the fold? Are there troubles at the corner folds?
Try stitching the binding onto the quilt using a 3/8 " seam allowance for 2 1/2 inch binding. Stop stitching 3/8 inch before the corner so you still have the 45 degree angle.
I stitch the binding onto the back and bring to the front. Binding is completed with machine and no hand stitching.
Try stitching the binding onto the quilt using a 3/8 " seam allowance for 2 1/2 inch binding. Stop stitching 3/8 inch before the corner so you still have the 45 degree angle.
I stitch the binding onto the back and bring to the front. Binding is completed with machine and no hand stitching.
I think you have a brilliant idea of making the seam on the back larger than ¼” although I don’t have the accuracy (yet) of working in 8ths but I could do a ½.
Incredibly, I have no problems with the mitered corners. Go figure.
The dark brown fabric in the pictures I used for contrast because my countertops are light colored and you couldn’t see the binding very good.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]614828[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]614829[/ATTACH]
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 07-14-2019 at 05:46 AM. Reason: shouting/all caps
#34
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 114
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I use 2-1/2 inch strips, folded in half, ironed, and use a 1/4" foot to attach the binding strips to the "back" of the quilt. I then turn the strips over, press once again, lightly on the front before stitching. The fold of the binding should be placed very slightly over the 1/4" inch seam line and stitched. I like using a short/narrow zig-zag stitch which catches both the front and the back edges. You can also use a straight stitch or a decorative stitch. Takes a little practice, but the main thing to remember is the placement of the fold of the binding on the stitch line.
#35
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 10,590
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sometimes, I do a flange binding, totally by machine.
Though ..... does anyone have the technique to do the flange the other way???
What I'd really like to do is a flange stitched by machine to the front,
then hand stitched to the back.
Anyone who can give me that how-to, will be a true hero!!!
![Smile](https://cdn.quiltingboard.com/images/smilies/smile.png)
#36
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Flagstaff, Arizona
Posts: 9,475
#37
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I now do all of my quilts, all the time, with this flange binding. It is sew easy to do, and it looks great. I will never hand sew a binding on another quilt. I love the flange binding.
Depends on the quilt. If I need to finish in a hurry I bind with the "faux flange" method. I machine sew it to the back then flip it to the front, glue in place with elmers washable school glue then SITD along the faux flange. But if I am not in a hurry I machine stitch to the front flip the binding to the back and hand sew it. I like both methods and I don't mind the hand sewing at all.
Here is a tute to the faux flange method.Quick Machine Binding with Flange The only thing I do different is cut my strips at 1.25 and 1.5 to end up with 2.25 wide binding strip. I also press it to the "flange" fabric to fill it up so it give the appearance of piping rather than a flange. I also use monofilament thread when doing the top stitch so it doesn't show at all. Here is a close up pic on this thread: Scrappy log cabin clam shell setting
Here is a tute to the faux flange method.Quick Machine Binding with Flange The only thing I do different is cut my strips at 1.25 and 1.5 to end up with 2.25 wide binding strip. I also press it to the "flange" fabric to fill it up so it give the appearance of piping rather than a flange. I also use monofilament thread when doing the top stitch so it doesn't show at all. Here is a close up pic on this thread: Scrappy log cabin clam shell setting
#38
Power Poster
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 17,798
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
In this case you have to do a true flange application or piping. With both flange and piped bindings, you have to make them and sew them on separately so you can do your mitered corners in the binding. I use my invisible zipper foot for doing the piping and it works the bomb! The piping and flanges are not mitered. I have only incorporated a flange in the body of the quilt but have done piped bindings a few times. They can be very fussy but look spectacular when done and well worth the extra effort.
What did you use for your "cording" in the piping? I remember way back in 4-H days (so that's like a 100 yrs ago!
![Smile](https://cdn.quiltingboard.com/images/smilies/smile.png)
#39
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,141
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I basically do this with my french fold bias binding. I never trim until after the binding is on the front of the quilt. Since I cut my binding at 3", I line up my half-inch mark on my seam line and then trim. Gives me a nice full binding and I never ever miss catching my back into the binding, as seems to often happen to those I know who trim first.
I think the trimming first is a viable method with thinner warm & natural type batts. Would never do it on a fluffy one.
I think the trimming first is a viable method with thinner warm & natural type batts. Would never do it on a fluffy one.
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 540
![Default](/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was recently introduced to very wide binding. I love it. It is much easier to machine sew it too. I make straight binding the usual way no matter how wide I choose so it still is double folded fabric. The miters fall in place like magic. For wide binding you adjust the border width or add border to be covered by the binding to the non border quilts. Here is one quilt with wide binding I made: [ATTACH=CONFIG]614836[/ATTACH]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post