bkay

I've held on to this magazine for a long time, intending to make this quilt https://www.apqshop.com/Two-of-Kind-p/qgr-00240.htm (in the calicos). The pattern offers wall hanging, throw, full/queen and King sizes. I want to make something in between those sizes. The throw size is 51X58, which I think is skimpy. Then, I realized I've never made a quilt from an actual pattern that requires planning the layout before making the block. (I think it's still going to be easier than card trick and all those HSTs.)

This quilt is put together on the 45 degree diagonal, for lack of a better description. You have to use a design wall, as each block has to match some fabrics on the next row.

My assumption is just to add another row or two and another block to each row. It sounds simple when I say that, but when I look at the pattern, my eyes cross. How do I figure out how many more fat quarters I need (throw size calls for 10, full/queen calls for 32)? How many FQ may not be an issue, as I have plenty. I think I need to know how many so that the colors all work. (My cousin sent me a box of 30's fat quarters, but I need to choose which ones and return the others to her.)

I have enough design wall space to lay out a few rows, but not the whole top. Each row finishes at 5". It appears that the block finishes at 5" x 10". I can't see how you'd be able to add a 1/2 block.

I'd like the quilt to be about 60X68.

Do I just dive in and figure it out as I go?

bkay

Iceblossom

bkay, if I'm getting it correctly from your description and the picture is that if you start in that upper corner with the triangle and then full block, then the next block down is a 4-patch? That would be one way, anyway, to piece it but would be squares and not rectangles.

It would be easy to set up in EQ but unfortunately I've just taken down my system with it getting ready for a house guest. Could even draw it out on graph paper but that won't help so much with yardage.

Although you will be piecing the blocks on the diagonal, I would probably find it easier myself to layout the colors in the horizontal rows first and then combine them into the blocks -- if that makes sense.

Tothill

If you multiply 51x58=2958 sq inches
60x68=4080 sq inches

4080-2958=1122 sq inches

There are 1440 sq inches in a yard of fabric.

So it looks like you will need the equivalent of an additional 4 FQ, but keep in mind a portion, perhaps 1/4, of that will also be your background.

Me I would use 4 more FQ and purchase at least 1/2 yard extra background.

Remember you will need more border fabric too to accommodate the larger inside section.

This is a pretty pattern. I would go up one more row and across one more row, drawing it out on graph paper and decide from there is if it is big enough. I agree 51x58 is too small for a lap and too big for a baby. I like 72x72 for lap quilts.

bearisgray

One could add rows and columns to get the size you want.

A design wall is definitely needed for this to keep things arranged the way you want them.

I think I would start with the "whole" units first, and then do the "side/edge" ones.

Iceblossom

Nice chart Bearisgray!

You can see with it drawn like that how easy it would be to layout the colors going across. That top row starts with a Solid Square and then units that are only 1 corner square with 3 sides of fabric. Then once all the blocks are made and laid out, you would put it together as the diagonal rows.

You would only have to layout 2 of those rows at a time, and set up the 4-patches between them after that. But notice that using the same background fabric means that row is just the same fabric as above it and then below it.

While you are making your subunits, you would make the L+1 blocks, plus 2 each of the contrast and background rectangles that would be combined into the 4-patches.

I don't think it would be as hard to do as first glance even if any written instructions I give are confusing. However, it is amazing how I can pick something up from right next to my sewing machine and sew down the wrong side...

bearisgray

Iceblossom

I like your suggestion for how to lay it out (if I understood it correctly!)

Iceblossom

Pretty much exactly what I was thinking of. Layout the colors across the rows, but when you go to sew it you will be sewing the blocks along the diagonal lines. If you try to figure out the layout by the diagonal lines it will drive you crazy!

After I layout, I number each of my blocks with a 1" alpha/number pinned on in the upper left corner out of seam allowance but so I can orient the blocks correctly. I use Alpha across and Numbers Down, so blocks are A1, B1, etc., if there is a K9 block I use dog fabric!

Here's my own less great grid and picture vs. scan. But it shows what I mean about the L block, I hope.

I think the big thing for me is that each I don't really need to worry about the L shaped fabrics other than where they place on the top. Then for each of the contrast colors (the +1) so long as I have the two rectangles they will layout correctly.

bearisgray

Interesting - I was thinking of the units as made up of four squares instead of one rectangle and two squares -

but that makes sense now that I see it drawn out.

bearisgray

I am fond of graph paper and colored pencils.

Iceblossom

You do great! I remember when I first came to the boards and you posted one of your helpful diagrams and then it took me another 6 months before I figured out how to post pictures. I'm used to drawing with pencil so use patterns but my designs don't translate well to other people.

Well, they will be 4-patch units once they are laid out, they just start as a rectangular subunit so you can cut the correct number of squares.

I guess what I would do is make all my L blocks first, you could sort your fabric into light/dark or just depend on contrast. For each L block I would make at the same time the two units of the contrast fabric.

Then you just layout the blocks, starting with the solid square and touching the L blocks on the center point until you like the row. Leave the space for the 4-patch row and layout the next L block row. Then you go back and match the contrast fabrics to their correct L block and make the 4 patches.

To make the setting triangles, you would still use those 2-patch subunits. Include a slightly larger rectangle of background for the other side, basically making a Reverse L block (contrast in the square, background as the L) and then trim across the points remembering your seam allowance. That's the purpose of the slightly larger piece, for a better seam line.

Same thing for the next set, layout the L blocks, then fill in with the 4 patches as you develop the layout.

Unless you want the color to move in a deliberate way across the quilt, you really only have to layout out each row so it is pleasing to you.

I have a small house and suffer from limited layout space myself. The only space I really have for a design wall is the back of my sewing room door and it just isn't enough So when I need a large space I have to layout on my queen sized bed which can be challenging laying out a quilt large enough for it.