How to Piece Better
#21
how to piece better...
I can relate to a lot of these posts. Just this past May I went for my annual eye check. Knew there was something about my eyes that wasn't quite right. After the exam, I asked the eye doc, and he said; "you can use more magnification." He explained that was a stronger lens to see better up close. So, after getting the stronger lens I have found that my seams are not only straighter and the 1/4" consistently, but I also enjoy piecing more. Took me a long time to figure that out!! Mariah
#22
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,666
Sometimes the problem is somewhere else than the seam width.
Are you cutting the pieces "scant" - "close enough" - or "generous"?
Do the cutting and sewing test to see what You need to do to get the finished size to be about what you expected it to be.
(When I say "approximate" - it's pretty close to what is expected. I worked with engineers who worked with thousandths of an inch tolerances. For some things now - that tolerance is a miss by a mile!)
One can't get "exactly" because of the nature of the materials and tools we are using.
P.S. The "test"
Cut three strips 2 x 5 inches
Sew them together with your version of a 1/4 inch seam
Press the unit like you usually press units
Measure the center strip - it "should" be 1-1/2 inches wide
If it is wider or narrower, make the appropriate adjustments - which can be in either the cutting width or seam width. The unit size "should" end up being 5 x 5 inches.
P.P.S. The whole idea of a "scant" 1/4 inch really annoys me. Say 7/32 or 15/64 if that's what is really wanted. "A couple of threads" is just as vague to me - depending on the fabric I'm using, that can vary quite a bit, too.
Are you cutting the pieces "scant" - "close enough" - or "generous"?
Do the cutting and sewing test to see what You need to do to get the finished size to be about what you expected it to be.
(When I say "approximate" - it's pretty close to what is expected. I worked with engineers who worked with thousandths of an inch tolerances. For some things now - that tolerance is a miss by a mile!)
One can't get "exactly" because of the nature of the materials and tools we are using.
P.S. The "test"
Cut three strips 2 x 5 inches
Sew them together with your version of a 1/4 inch seam
Press the unit like you usually press units
Measure the center strip - it "should" be 1-1/2 inches wide
If it is wider or narrower, make the appropriate adjustments - which can be in either the cutting width or seam width. The unit size "should" end up being 5 x 5 inches.
P.P.S. The whole idea of a "scant" 1/4 inch really annoys me. Say 7/32 or 15/64 if that's what is really wanted. "A couple of threads" is just as vague to me - depending on the fabric I'm using, that can vary quite a bit, too.
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 07-23-2018 at 03:39 AM. Reason: shouting
#23
I know what you're saying....I feel the same way, which is why I haven't posted any pictures yet....I will in the future, but so many people have put beautiful quilts on here that I'm afraid mine aren't that great...
#24
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Texas currently
Posts: 1,222
Leah Day has just put out a new book that promises to help even the 'old hands' get better at this. You can get it as an e-book off her site or buy one at Amazon. I'm sorry I don't remember the name of it, but just go to her site and you'll find it. Just google Leah Day.
#25
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,973
I second this, a friend pointed out how thin the "quilting pins with the glass heads" and how they don't take as much of a bite out of the fabric. It sure helps.
#26
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky live in WV
Posts: 8,483
Make the block slightly larger, stitch piece, and trim down to size. I watched Fons & Porter last Saturday where a comment was made that we all have this slight bit of extra material to waste. It really is a small amount.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Tri-Cities, Washington
Posts: 757
What brand are these thinner pins? I'm thinking I need to replace my flower head pins and I want to get the next pins right to do a better job in my piecing. I'm sure it does make a difference.
#28
Welcome to the custom world of quilting!
Each of us sews differently. Problems could occur for many reasons ...
- Do you starch or Best Press? I'd advise it as then the material won't inadvertently be stretched and thus the edges not match up. Do you iron or press, as this can also make a difference as you build you blocks and quilt.
- Where do you cut the material in relation to the lines on the ruler. I have learned the way I need to get the material aligned to cut for my pattern to work properly. The way in which the rotary cutter is held against the ruler can be another factorl
Try this: get a few quilting friends together and, using their own tools, have them cut then sew 2 equal sized square together for HST's, then iron them and check them against each other. I'd bet that there would be slight differences in the final HST sizes.
- Do you sew a 1/4" or scant 1/4" seam consistently. This is why many of us sew practice blocks. Some patterns need the regular 1/4" seam and others the scant 1/4" seam. Yes, you can do test strips to see that you have a 1/4" seam. However, not all pattern makers use this reference.
Are you confused yet?
Personally, I use a flanged 1/4" foot for sewing seams together.
- Do you use pins ... and how? Again, this can be very individual. I rarely pin my seams. For me, if I have to pin it is using my smallest pins [not those easy to use flower head pins which are way easier to use, darn it] and pin on either side of where 2 seams match. Again, personally, I have my pins coming from the right to the left and stop with the pinpoint just before the seam line. I do better this way and I never sew over the pins, which is good because I can be distracted quite easily.
- Yes, for Hst's and the like, make them bigger then trim if that is the best way for you. There are also paper piecing methods using things such as Thangles or Triangles on a Roll. There are many special ruler, if you want to invest in them. Remember also that with some methods and rulers for things like HST's you would be making multiple HST's all the same colors not individual colors.
- Then come the teachers of quilting. Not all are alike and some may not be able to understand this fact. Very few things have to be done in a specific manner. That's why some of us love chain piecing and others like to do a block at a time. Listen, learn, then find what works best for you.
I say this last because I am a math person. I need to know the relations ships between the different pieces and shapes. For me I need to know measurements not just marking my ruler with tape like the teacher might want the students to do. I can look at a pattern and usually figure out how to resize it without much difficulty or using EQ. You may not have these needs, and that is fine. Find what works best for you. Take notes if needed or mark notes to yourself on your patterns. Become your own teaching assistant.
And .... Have fun!
Each of us sews differently. Problems could occur for many reasons ...
- Do you starch or Best Press? I'd advise it as then the material won't inadvertently be stretched and thus the edges not match up. Do you iron or press, as this can also make a difference as you build you blocks and quilt.
- Where do you cut the material in relation to the lines on the ruler. I have learned the way I need to get the material aligned to cut for my pattern to work properly. The way in which the rotary cutter is held against the ruler can be another factorl
Try this: get a few quilting friends together and, using their own tools, have them cut then sew 2 equal sized square together for HST's, then iron them and check them against each other. I'd bet that there would be slight differences in the final HST sizes.
- Do you sew a 1/4" or scant 1/4" seam consistently. This is why many of us sew practice blocks. Some patterns need the regular 1/4" seam and others the scant 1/4" seam. Yes, you can do test strips to see that you have a 1/4" seam. However, not all pattern makers use this reference.
Are you confused yet?
Personally, I use a flanged 1/4" foot for sewing seams together.
- Do you use pins ... and how? Again, this can be very individual. I rarely pin my seams. For me, if I have to pin it is using my smallest pins [not those easy to use flower head pins which are way easier to use, darn it] and pin on either side of where 2 seams match. Again, personally, I have my pins coming from the right to the left and stop with the pinpoint just before the seam line. I do better this way and I never sew over the pins, which is good because I can be distracted quite easily.
- Yes, for Hst's and the like, make them bigger then trim if that is the best way for you. There are also paper piecing methods using things such as Thangles or Triangles on a Roll. There are many special ruler, if you want to invest in them. Remember also that with some methods and rulers for things like HST's you would be making multiple HST's all the same colors not individual colors.
- Then come the teachers of quilting. Not all are alike and some may not be able to understand this fact. Very few things have to be done in a specific manner. That's why some of us love chain piecing and others like to do a block at a time. Listen, learn, then find what works best for you.
I say this last because I am a math person. I need to know the relations ships between the different pieces and shapes. For me I need to know measurements not just marking my ruler with tape like the teacher might want the students to do. I can look at a pattern and usually figure out how to resize it without much difficulty or using EQ. You may not have these needs, and that is fine. Find what works best for you. Take notes if needed or mark notes to yourself on your patterns. Become your own teaching assistant.
And .... Have fun!
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 453
When you are starting to sew two pieces of fabric (blocks, strips, etc...), are you using a starter swatch? I know this sounds small, but it does help. Also pin, pin, pin - I know this can be a pain, but I don't think you can use too many pins. When I was starting to quilt I just stuck my pins in any only way (some going one way others going another), I found that is also can change things up a little. Pull a hair one way and push a hair the other. So I make sure when sewing two rows together that the pins all face the same way.
#30
Super Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,391
The good thing about fabric is that it stretches - you can nudge it a bit to make it fit. The bad thing about fabric is that it stretches - it makes it difficult to be consistent. We have to remember that we are working with a malleable medium which can shift and distort when cutting, sewing, and assembling. I have never been very successful cutting multiple layers of fabric so I don't do it. For others this is not a problem. Some can sew right along without pinning. I have to pin for things to come out right. The way you pin and the types of pins can make a difference. I have the agree the thinner the pins the more accurate my matching is. Some people can sew fast and chain piece. I find that I have to go slower and be careful about chain piecing because I lose track of which piece goes to what. Some people can finger press and move on. I find that I have better luck pressing with an iron before I move on. Some people pull their fabric through when sewing. I find I have better luck by letting the machine pull the fabric through as it stitches and only using my hands to gently guide the fabric through. The point is what works for some doesn't work for others. I think practice makes a difference and finding your own rhythm will come. Use the tips of others but don't become so OCD over it that you lose the enjoyment.
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