quiltingnd

Not sure what I did today exactly, as I tried a lot of things. I tried switching needles, but ended up putting my original 90 needle back in. But, after shredding the thread just once, my machine and I tentively made peace with each other and I managed about 20 minutes of fmq'ing without shredding any thread. (And then I stopped.) I am hoping I have figured out the hand speed/machine speed and can finish the other half of the quilt without so much trouble.

And I'm still using connecting threads thread. (Fyi)

Furball

I had the thread shredding during FMQ problem a few months ago on my Janome 7700. IT was very frustrating.

I tried moving to larger topstitch needles, lowering top tension, and slowing down. It all helped but did not completely resolve the issue. Turns out there was a burr/rough spot on the hole in my needle plate. Once I buffed that out, the problem was fully resolved.

To see if this is your problem, take off the needle plate and insert a piece of thread through the hole. Run the thread around the hole listening and feeling for a burr. If you find one, buff it out with emery cord/cloth/paper pulling it back and forth over the area as if flossing. Then use the thread again to be sure it is completely smooth.

It is also possible to have a burr on your hook, but unless your owner's manual tells you how to deal with that, it is best left to the pros because if you sand off the point it won't form stitches.

In normal straight stitching the thread doesn't come in contact with the edge of the needle hole. In FMQ the faster you go especially as you are changing direction around a curve or point and the smaller the needle, the more likely the thread is to touch the hole. Then any burr will cause shredding.

Good luck

Bubbie

I feel you!! I have a Pfaff (love them, but you and your machine need to STAY friends), check the way your needle is in (not back wards - I've done that). The other thing is check for lint around the bobbin case and under the feed dogs (again I've missed this too). Also check for burs (again I know my Pfaff and when she's not HAPPY, I'm not quilting). If all else fails use a different needle (sometimes you just get a BAD needle). Good luck

Peckish

In addition to everyone's suggestions, make sure the eye of the needle is big enough for the thread. Different needles have different sized eyes. Leslie suggested a Topstitch needle, and here's why that's a good recommendation: Topstitch needles not only have a larger eye, they have a longer scarf. A scarf is an indentation running vertically up from the eye, and gives the thread a place to tuck into as the needle moves in and out of the fabric. It protects the thread and reduces friction.

Another thought: Sharon Schamber will lubricate her thread if it's breaking a lot. We may buy the thread and think it's "fresh", but who knows how long it's been sitting on that store shelf, and the warehouse shelf before that. Here's how Sharon lubricates her thread - she dips the cone in pharmaceutical-grade white mineral oil, lets it sit and drain for a minute, wipes the excess off with a paper towel, then quilts with it. I've tried it and I have several longarming friends in my quilting group who have tried it. Yes it does work and no it does not leave grease or oil stains on the fabric. Just be sure to get the right kind of mineral oil.

misseva

Peckish, can you tell me the difference between pharmaceutical grade mineral oil and the kind we get at the drug store?

Peckish

If it says USP on it, it is pharmaceutical grade mineral oil. It may also say "intestinal lubricant" or "food grade".

misseva

Thanks Pekish I appreciate your prompt reply. That's what my pharmacist said but asked just to be sure.