I HATE binding
#31
Originally Posted by raksmum
Lucy, (sorry, I couldn't get the "quote" to work)
I wouldn't make the binding strip less than 2 1/4". You have to remember once you fold it in half, you have half the width. Then place the raw edge to the raw edge of the quilt and sew 1/4". When you flip to the back it will "fill" with the edge of the quilt and you won't have excess.
I wouldn't make the binding strip less than 2 1/4". You have to remember once you fold it in half, you have half the width. Then place the raw edge to the raw edge of the quilt and sew 1/4". When you flip to the back it will "fill" with the edge of the quilt and you won't have excess.
#32
I never took a binding class, taught myself from one of the numerous books I have purchased. I trim top, batting and backing the same. I almost always cut my binding strips 3", fold, then sew a 3/8" seam. I like the look of the wider binding better, even on the smaller projects. I guess if I was binding something that had star points, I'd use a 1/4" width, so I wouln't lose the points, but since there's always a border, I'll go with the 3/8" width Different strokes, I guess.
#33
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Pittsburg, Kansas
Posts: 110
I use Alex Andersons' book, "Keep Quilting," which is the easiest for me, as binding is not my favorite thing. It is the easiest, so here it is.
1. Trim quilt edges
2. Sew binding, 2 and 1/2 " in strips into one long strip.
3. Pin binding so it is flush on the edge with the quilt, starting in from a corner--about 3-4 ".
4. I always baste, as it turns out better for me.
5. Machine stitch the binding to the quilt. At the corners, stitch straight to the corner, but stop about 1/4" then backstitch.
6. Still at a corner, hold the binding up in the air, fold down so that there is a miter at the corner.
7. Lift your needle, then advance to the next edge.
Keep doing this all of the way around, then turn, check the corners that they are intact. I usually have to stitch mine a little with a needle and thread, but they turn out okay most of the time.
After all turned to the back and the corners checked, then baste and hand stitch.
***** I had to do this several times to get it to look good. Her method is the best for me. Good luck!!
marta
[email protected]
Let me know how it turns out for you; email above.
1. Trim quilt edges
2. Sew binding, 2 and 1/2 " in strips into one long strip.
3. Pin binding so it is flush on the edge with the quilt, starting in from a corner--about 3-4 ".
4. I always baste, as it turns out better for me.
5. Machine stitch the binding to the quilt. At the corners, stitch straight to the corner, but stop about 1/4" then backstitch.
6. Still at a corner, hold the binding up in the air, fold down so that there is a miter at the corner.
7. Lift your needle, then advance to the next edge.
Keep doing this all of the way around, then turn, check the corners that they are intact. I usually have to stitch mine a little with a needle and thread, but they turn out okay most of the time.
After all turned to the back and the corners checked, then baste and hand stitch.
***** I had to do this several times to get it to look good. Her method is the best for me. Good luck!!
marta
[email protected]
Let me know how it turns out for you; email above.
#34
Like most people have said, I square things up and sew binding right to the top of my quilt. However, my machine doesn't like pins so I have learned to pin a little and then baste it in place before I goto the machine.
#35
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
I haven't read all the other threads, but this is how I like to attach binding. It is different than what most books recommend, but IMO much easier in terms of achieving accuracy every time.
First off, I do *not* trim the quilt to 1/4-inch bigger all around. Instead, I ***mark*** that line with a Sharpie permanent marker on the quilt top.
Next step is to zigzag near that 1/4-inch mark to secure all the layers. (I pin first if there is any chance the layers might shift on me as I sew.)
Only after sewing do I trim the quilt, and then I only roughly trim it to an inch or two beyond the Sharpie marking. At this point, if for some reason I realize my Sharpie lines are not exactly squared, I can easily adjust those markings so my quilt becomes correctly squared.
To sew on the binding, I align the cut edge of the binding strip with the Sharpie line, sewing my seam 1/4-inch from that binding cut edge.
Only *after* the sewing is completed and checked do I finally trim the quilt edge to where it needs to be. (For example, I would check to make sure I hadn't run out of bobbin thread halfway through!) At this point I can adjust exactly how much I want to trim to get the binding filled appropriately -- not so tight it is difficult to hand sew the binding on the back, but not so loose that the binding isn't fully filled with batting.
Hope this helps someone!
First off, I do *not* trim the quilt to 1/4-inch bigger all around. Instead, I ***mark*** that line with a Sharpie permanent marker on the quilt top.
Next step is to zigzag near that 1/4-inch mark to secure all the layers. (I pin first if there is any chance the layers might shift on me as I sew.)
Only after sewing do I trim the quilt, and then I only roughly trim it to an inch or two beyond the Sharpie marking. At this point, if for some reason I realize my Sharpie lines are not exactly squared, I can easily adjust those markings so my quilt becomes correctly squared.
To sew on the binding, I align the cut edge of the binding strip with the Sharpie line, sewing my seam 1/4-inch from that binding cut edge.
Only *after* the sewing is completed and checked do I finally trim the quilt edge to where it needs to be. (For example, I would check to make sure I hadn't run out of bobbin thread halfway through!) At this point I can adjust exactly how much I want to trim to get the binding filled appropriately -- not so tight it is difficult to hand sew the binding on the back, but not so loose that the binding isn't fully filled with batting.
Hope this helps someone!
#36
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,847
Just my own personal preference. . . I always use a 1/2 inch seam and cut the binding to allow for that. And I sometimes baste the edges together at 1/4 inch before sewing on the binding. When it comes time to fold over and hand stitch, the edges can be trimmed if necessary to get the binding overlap correct on the other side.
#37
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1
Working on two doll quilts for great grandaughters. This A.M. I couldn't get bias binding to join properly, so I looked up my old faithful.
Happy Endings by Mimi Dietrich.
All about finishing the edges of your quilt. Everything fromBias binding, French binding, Rounded corners, Folded Mitered corners, Scalloped Edges, Corded Binding, Prairie Points, Making your own Ruffles and lace. This book is well worth the price and has many tips on how to do all of these things.
bettesmith
Happy Endings by Mimi Dietrich.
All about finishing the edges of your quilt. Everything fromBias binding, French binding, Rounded corners, Folded Mitered corners, Scalloped Edges, Corded Binding, Prairie Points, Making your own Ruffles and lace. This book is well worth the price and has many tips on how to do all of these things.
bettesmith
#39
Sorry your having such trouble. Don't get discouraged, it takes practice.
I don't pin, but keep checking as I go to make all layers are even.
I like binding, it feels so good to get it done. You know your almost finished.
Suggestion- Make three layers with muslin and batting, maybe a 14 inch square and just practice.
Hope all goes well for you.
simple quilter
I don't pin, but keep checking as I go to make all layers are even.
I like binding, it feels so good to get it done. You know your almost finished.
Suggestion- Make three layers with muslin and batting, maybe a 14 inch square and just practice.
Hope all goes well for you.
simple quilter
#40
I was just going to say "practice on some spare fabric" when I got to Donna Mae's post -- she BEAT me! :mrgreen:
I'm totally backwards when it comes to the mitered corners. I don't stop 1/4" from the edge. I've never gotten them to be PERFECT until I started sewing right to the edge....then I follow the same procedure. Now I have great looking miters!!!! :D
I'm totally backwards when it comes to the mitered corners. I don't stop 1/4" from the edge. I've never gotten them to be PERFECT until I started sewing right to the edge....then I follow the same procedure. Now I have great looking miters!!!! :D
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
craftybear
Links and Resources
3
12-25-2010 09:49 PM