I'm discouraged :(
#61
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Somerset, England
Posts: 285
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Originally Posted by vivientan
Originally Posted by Tartan
Are you using a darning or FM foot(spring in it)? Are your feed dogs dropped down or covered? I do not have the same machine but you may also need to adjust your bobbin tension screw if your machine has one.
I hope you can figure out a way to proceed but if not, there is nothing wrong with using your walking foot and straight stitching.
I hope you can figure out a way to proceed but if not, there is nothing wrong with using your walking foot and straight stitching.
I've asked the service centre about adjusting the bobbin tension but they've advised me against it, as I would need to readjust it back when I change to regular sewing.
#62
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Somerset, England
Posts: 285
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Originally Posted by vivientan
Originally Posted by Kat Sews
You mentioned that the quilt is hard to move and gets stuck sometimes. What foot are you using and can you release the pressure on your foot? I helped someone recently and found she didn't have the right foot on her machine and was having the same type problem.
#63
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[quote=ruthrec]
I have a Janome DC 3050, just a little workhorse for everyday use and the very first thing I do is drop the feed dog. You didn't mention doing that. Then I put a new needle in using the needle recommended for the thread I'm using. For my needs it is usually a 12 or 14. For 30 weight thread and thicker I go larger on the needle, like a 16, or jeans needle. I leave the tension on Auto. Rarely do I have to change the tension.
I also use the darning foot as it lets me move the fabric and also to see where I'm going. I set the stitch length at 0. Straight stitch, 0 length. The stitch length of FM is determined by me and how fast I move the quilt. I start with a quilt sandwich to see if everything is ok. I can set my speed on the machine so I set it to as fast as I can manage (this takes some practice to determine) and push the pedal all the way down. I move the quilt sandwich slowly as this makes the smallest stitches.....fast pedal movement, slow movement under the needle. Stitching in place for two or three seconds secures the thread then slowly start moving the fabric.
This requires concentration at first and I recommend that you concentrate on relaxing the shoulders and arms. Use gloves or a good hand lotion (to make your hands slightly tacky) to hold on to the fabric. When you need to stop and change hand positions, stop the machine. Then move your hands. FM is so much fun I hope you don't give up.
Someone here recommended to make quilt sandwiches to practice on. That's what I did and I am now able to quilt a few things with FM although I have a long way to go.
Also, you can watch YouTube videos to help you see what to do. Good luck and please don't give up.
I forgot to add that I did buy the extension table for my Janome ($99.00) and it is an essential.[/quote ]
Yup, I had my feed dogs dropped. The service centre has asked me to try the blue tipped needles. Have you tried this out?
I think controlling movement of the quilt under the needle is a huge challenge and I can't seem to be able to master this yet.
I had the extension table for my Janome too but I've recently purchased a table from Arrow which allows me to sew in flatbed position, so I do not need the extension table anymore.
I have a Janome DC 3050, just a little workhorse for everyday use and the very first thing I do is drop the feed dog. You didn't mention doing that. Then I put a new needle in using the needle recommended for the thread I'm using. For my needs it is usually a 12 or 14. For 30 weight thread and thicker I go larger on the needle, like a 16, or jeans needle. I leave the tension on Auto. Rarely do I have to change the tension.
I also use the darning foot as it lets me move the fabric and also to see where I'm going. I set the stitch length at 0. Straight stitch, 0 length. The stitch length of FM is determined by me and how fast I move the quilt. I start with a quilt sandwich to see if everything is ok. I can set my speed on the machine so I set it to as fast as I can manage (this takes some practice to determine) and push the pedal all the way down. I move the quilt sandwich slowly as this makes the smallest stitches.....fast pedal movement, slow movement under the needle. Stitching in place for two or three seconds secures the thread then slowly start moving the fabric.
This requires concentration at first and I recommend that you concentrate on relaxing the shoulders and arms. Use gloves or a good hand lotion (to make your hands slightly tacky) to hold on to the fabric. When you need to stop and change hand positions, stop the machine. Then move your hands. FM is so much fun I hope you don't give up.
Someone here recommended to make quilt sandwiches to practice on. That's what I did and I am now able to quilt a few things with FM although I have a long way to go.
Also, you can watch YouTube videos to help you see what to do. Good luck and please don't give up.
I forgot to add that I did buy the extension table for my Janome ($99.00) and it is an essential.[/quote ]
Yup, I had my feed dogs dropped. The service centre has asked me to try the blue tipped needles. Have you tried this out?
I think controlling movement of the quilt under the needle is a huge challenge and I can't seem to be able to master this yet.
I had the extension table for my Janome too but I've recently purchased a table from Arrow which allows me to sew in flatbed position, so I do not need the extension table anymore.
#64
Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 85
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I love FMQ & with practice you will too! Lessen the pressure on your presser foot, use a darning or free motion foot, use something to make the bed slippery like the teflon Supreme Slider or sewing machine grade silicone spray - a light spray on the bed and wipe with a paper towel. Sew SLOWLY - you can't have control trying to go 100 mph. I taped some sponge on my foot pedal so I can't push it all the way down. Or set the speed on your machine to turtle slow if you can. It's like driving a stick - have to coordinate the speed you sew with the speed you move the sandwich. Just practice, practice, practice and you'll get it. I always use a thread in the bobbin that is close in color with the top thread cause it's really hard not to get those little bumps of bobbin thread showing up on the top. The speed you move also seems to have something to do with tension - swoop too fast and you'll get eyelashes on the back. don't give up!! Put on some music and relax. You'll get it. Marlene
#66
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That's why I don't do FMQ. In just do straight stitching around the block or in the ditch. Nothing creative, just quilting. I really admire the longarmers, but not only can't I afford a machine, I have no place to put it. Not that I would like to!!!!
Stick with it and you'll get better. If you are having so much trouble, stick with the straight sewing and a walking foot.
Stick with it and you'll get better. If you are having so much trouble, stick with the straight sewing and a walking foot.
#67
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Recently, I think I solved this problem by purchasing a Brother PQ1500s for $800 that I will use solely for FMQing. My Viking QD that I love just would not allow decent FMQ no matter what needle, thread, or technique I tried. So, after looking at Sweet Sixteens and long arms I decided on the Brother.
I just won't be doing enough FMQ to warrant spending over $4000. This way I can use the Viking to piece and the Brother to FMQ. I had the dealer set the tension for my quilt sandwich thickness, etc and hope that this will solve my problem. I don't have any great expectations of becoming an expert at this, but at least it should get me by when I don't have time for handquilting.
I just won't be doing enough FMQ to warrant spending over $4000. This way I can use the Viking to piece and the Brother to FMQ. I had the dealer set the tension for my quilt sandwich thickness, etc and hope that this will solve my problem. I don't have any great expectations of becoming an expert at this, but at least it should get me by when I don't have time for handquilting.
#68
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Newberg, OR
Posts: 1,911
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Originally Posted by matraina
I don't have one and don't know anyone who used one but I've seen it advertised a lot - that "Supreme Slider". Hope you get some really good suggestions, as usual, on this board.
#69
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Here are my tips for FMQ:
1. Use regular stitching tension as if sewing! Be sure to drop the dog-feeds. Sometimes you might want to lower the upper tension by on by a tad but not by much! And DON'T use a bedsheet as the backing (the thread count is too high and hard to penetrate).
2. Use lighter weight thread intended for machine quilting. My favorite is King Tut quilting thread.
3. Use SHARP point needles...(do not use a universal point) and a larger size. I use a size 16 jeans needle or a size 18, both sharp points (buy a couple of packs because you will break needles).
4. Buy some of the gloves that have the little non-skid dots on them to help you manuever the fabric. It REALLY does help!
5. Do not 'roll' up the quilt but rather scrunch it into the arm space. The rolled up fabric tends to pull and jerk my fabric as I try to sew.
6. Use a moderately fast speed, relax your shoulders and go!
7. You can practice your moves by actually taking out a pad of paper and pencil and practice 'drawing' the quilting designs you would like to make. I believe it helps train your mind and body to make the movements necessary to quilt.
Now...having said all of that, my stitching is not perfect and it will never look like it would if I had a long-arm machine but it also doesn't look that bad! I'm often more critical of my work because I'm looking at it up close but when it's finished....I can actually stand back and ooohhh and aaaahhhh over the finished work. My only bed-size quilt I've FMQ I just finished recently and posted pictures. It's my Oklahoma Quilt I made for my son. I see all the mistakes...others do not. I know it's not perfect but my son loves the quilt!
1. Use regular stitching tension as if sewing! Be sure to drop the dog-feeds. Sometimes you might want to lower the upper tension by on by a tad but not by much! And DON'T use a bedsheet as the backing (the thread count is too high and hard to penetrate).
2. Use lighter weight thread intended for machine quilting. My favorite is King Tut quilting thread.
3. Use SHARP point needles...(do not use a universal point) and a larger size. I use a size 16 jeans needle or a size 18, both sharp points (buy a couple of packs because you will break needles).
4. Buy some of the gloves that have the little non-skid dots on them to help you manuever the fabric. It REALLY does help!
5. Do not 'roll' up the quilt but rather scrunch it into the arm space. The rolled up fabric tends to pull and jerk my fabric as I try to sew.
6. Use a moderately fast speed, relax your shoulders and go!
7. You can practice your moves by actually taking out a pad of paper and pencil and practice 'drawing' the quilting designs you would like to make. I believe it helps train your mind and body to make the movements necessary to quilt.
Now...having said all of that, my stitching is not perfect and it will never look like it would if I had a long-arm machine but it also doesn't look that bad! I'm often more critical of my work because I'm looking at it up close but when it's finished....I can actually stand back and ooohhh and aaaahhhh over the finished work. My only bed-size quilt I've FMQ I just finished recently and posted pictures. It's my Oklahoma Quilt I made for my son. I see all the mistakes...others do not. I know it's not perfect but my son loves the quilt!
#70
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First off tension really does not need to be changed, your hand movement and speed of machine create tension and stitch length. I don't change my settings. I turn on my sewing machine speed to highest, drop my feed dogs and try to keep my hands going at an even speed. i have been practicing for about 6 months and got my speed and stitch length down. I'd try to master that with some easy loops before trying to attempt patterns. I just took a class yesterday. and she said doing the patterns is just going to take practice to get the movement down, but don't give up your machine can do it. I feel the same way sometimes. I just want to be great at it quick, and that is just unrealistic. The people in the class did it with their cheap brothers and singers just fine with their stitch length
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