Intimidated By On Point
#12
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 5,572
Setting on point is not so hard. Just tilt your head and you will see your blocks are just rows getting longer and then shorter with triangles finishing each row. Bonnie hunter has a chart that gives measurements to cut your triangles. I have faith in you. Just give it a try
I also agree with the other poster who mentioned labeling your blocks/rows. I use sticky notes and pin to the blocks/rows. I also find that sometimes it helps to start with laying out the longest row (diagonal corner to corner) and work to the smaller corners with the subsequent rows. Makes it a bit easier to see sometimes and make sure you're laying out your blocks in the proper order if there is a secondary design happening in the quilt.
As the saying goes...just do it! You'll love it.
#13
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Blue Ridge Mountians
Posts: 7,075
Sketch it on paper, number the rows on the sketch. Turn the sketch so it looks like rows. Make the quilt to match the sketch & number the rows the same. Dip the triangle fabric in starchy water, dry and press before you cut the triangles. This will control the bias. This is so row friendly, you can even assemble & quilt by the quilt-as-you-go method. Go fo it.....the prettiest quilts i've made were on point.
#14
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 15,639
When you see a picture of a quilt on point, turn the picture so the rows appear to be straight across. Then you can count how many blocks you need per row. Each row gets setting triangles which are not that hard to calculate. As many have written, it is also possible to oversize the setting pieces and cut them down later. We are all beginners, the first few times - no matter how long we've been sewing/quilting. You can do it!
#15
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,893
I'm a newbie and just figured this out
I am working on a quartered stripes quilt, which I hated as soon as I had enough blocks made to see how it would look. My quilting mentor suggested I add sashing, which helped a lot. The ladies on Garden Web's quilting forum suggested I set it on point, which I decided to do. So, I downloaded some 1/2" graph paper and laid it out. Quartered Stripes has 2 different patterns, which are alternated. That's the explanation for the Xs on the squares. I wrote everything down, so it should be easy to copy.
(I decided not to set it on point, as I would have to "unsew" all those blocks to make the triangles for the edges. I just want to finish this top.)
I numbered the rows and wrote down how many squares across it would take.
bkay
(I decided not to set it on point, as I would have to "unsew" all those blocks to make the triangles for the edges. I just want to finish this top.)
I numbered the rows and wrote down how many squares across it would take.
bkay
#18
Jan's illustration is great (as usual). Thanks Jan.
I recently did a quilt on point with sashing and corner stones. The tricky part for me was getting the sashing on the correct sides of the squares. The interior squares take sashing on two sides as the other two sides will be covered by the sashing on the adjacent square. The squares that touch the setting triangles however need sashing on three sides as the setting triangle will butt up to it and will not have any corresponding sashing.
I starched my setting triangle fabric to help stabilize the bias edges. I cut them as Jan illustrated.
I put my corner triangles on last.
I laid my blocks out on the bed because it was too big for my design wall and then took a picture of it. Being able to refer back to the picture helped me immensely.
When everything was put together I trimmed my setting triangles to match them up with my squares.
I stay stitched (about 1/8" so the stitching would be in the seam allowance for the binding) around the edge of the entire quilt top so the bias edges wouldn't stretch in the quilting process and to keep all the edges where the rows joined from coming apart. Once that was done I didn't have to be so careful handling the quilt top.
Go for it. I'm sure you will feel that when you're done the final effect will be worth the effort.
I recently did a quilt on point with sashing and corner stones. The tricky part for me was getting the sashing on the correct sides of the squares. The interior squares take sashing on two sides as the other two sides will be covered by the sashing on the adjacent square. The squares that touch the setting triangles however need sashing on three sides as the setting triangle will butt up to it and will not have any corresponding sashing.
I starched my setting triangle fabric to help stabilize the bias edges. I cut them as Jan illustrated.
I put my corner triangles on last.
I laid my blocks out on the bed because it was too big for my design wall and then took a picture of it. Being able to refer back to the picture helped me immensely.
When everything was put together I trimmed my setting triangles to match them up with my squares.
I stay stitched (about 1/8" so the stitching would be in the seam allowance for the binding) around the edge of the entire quilt top so the bias edges wouldn't stretch in the quilting process and to keep all the edges where the rows joined from coming apart. Once that was done I didn't have to be so careful handling the quilt top.
Go for it. I'm sure you will feel that when you're done the final effect will be worth the effort.
#19
It isn't hard to do & you have so many people here to help you if you run into a problem. Once you do one then you will wonder what you was intimidated about! lol Any time though that we try something new I think we feel this way. Just do it & you will see. Also I am sure there are tons of videos out there if that is easier for you. Have fun!
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Hamburg,Western New York State
Posts: 4,856
Turn the pattern picture on the diagonal, that usually helps me. But truthfully...every time I make an on point quilt I have to refer to the internet for instructions...and I have been quilting for 40 years.
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