long arm troubleshooting
#1
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Location: North Idaho
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I am hoping the smart folks on this forum can help me more than the service place I took my machine!
I have a BabyLock Regalia. it is skipping stitches when I move the machine from the front towards the back. It is 99% okay in regulated mode, but is *horrible* in manual mode, no matter what speed setting is used (I have trialed from 450 to 1100).
I took the machine in for service when the skipped stitches were happening in both the regulated and the manual modes. I got it back the other day and I saw the improvement in regulated, but manual mode is still giving me fits.
The timing appears to be fine (from my unskilled eyes and since it was just serviced). the encoder wires appear to be okay, not kinked, not frayed, etc. the encoder wheels and tracks are clean. the bobbin case is clean and lint free. I have changed threads, changed needles, loaded the fabric with more tautness and then less tautness. the thread tension is fine.
I don't expect an encoder issue since the regulator actually seems to fix the issue, but I just can't seem to figure it out. and I am upset that the service center gave it back to me without assessing all modes!
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
I have a BabyLock Regalia. it is skipping stitches when I move the machine from the front towards the back. It is 99% okay in regulated mode, but is *horrible* in manual mode, no matter what speed setting is used (I have trialed from 450 to 1100).
I took the machine in for service when the skipped stitches were happening in both the regulated and the manual modes. I got it back the other day and I saw the improvement in regulated, but manual mode is still giving me fits.
The timing appears to be fine (from my unskilled eyes and since it was just serviced). the encoder wires appear to be okay, not kinked, not frayed, etc. the encoder wheels and tracks are clean. the bobbin case is clean and lint free. I have changed threads, changed needles, loaded the fabric with more tautness and then less tautness. the thread tension is fine.
I don't expect an encoder issue since the regulator actually seems to fix the issue, but I just can't seem to figure it out. and I am upset that the service center gave it back to me without assessing all modes!
any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
#2
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: S.E. Queensland, Australia
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It could be the encoders. I had this problem for years and hoping I have fixed it now. The encoders were not heavy enough and skipped over the tracks, so I finally hot-glued a lead sinker on the top of each one and had no issue with the last quilt I did. Also find I need to have the needle eye facing a tad to the right, not straight forward.
#3
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new development: I had the husband put pressure on the encoders to see if there was any play or improvement. no difference. just for trial, I also unplugged both encoders and it behaved the exact same way, not better, not worse.
#4
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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Manual mode should make the encoders moot. Manual mode should be stitching happening at a regular stitches-per-minutes regardless of whether you are moving the head or not.
Regulated mode uses the encoders to tell the head when to make a stitch as they detect motion (wheels rolling) on the carriage and frame.
Now, in regulated mode you have precise, where it starts and stops with movement, and continuous, where when you get below a certain motion it kind of acts like manual (keeps stitching).
When you say "skipped stitches" - are holes being made but the stitch not completed or are you getting long stitches mixed in with small stitches?
Front to back is movement of machine on carriage. Without the machine on, if you move it to a location does it want to slide forward or backwards on its own?
Normally, you would have skipped stitches in regulated but all fine in manual. You're describing the opposite, which is very unusual.
Regulated mode uses the encoders to tell the head when to make a stitch as they detect motion (wheels rolling) on the carriage and frame.
Now, in regulated mode you have precise, where it starts and stops with movement, and continuous, where when you get below a certain motion it kind of acts like manual (keeps stitching).
When you say "skipped stitches" - are holes being made but the stitch not completed or are you getting long stitches mixed in with small stitches?
Front to back is movement of machine on carriage. Without the machine on, if you move it to a location does it want to slide forward or backwards on its own?
Normally, you would have skipped stitches in regulated but all fine in manual. You're describing the opposite, which is very unusual.
Last edited by mkc; 02-12-2023 at 01:43 PM.
#5
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the table is level, so there is no unwanted movement of the machine beyond my own control of it.
they are truly skipped stitches. it is making holes and not catching the bobbin thread. as soon as I change directions and stitch horizontally, it all catches again and the stitches are fine. moving in a downward position is just fine, too.
correct about the last statement. it is odd to me too.
they are truly skipped stitches. it is making holes and not catching the bobbin thread. as soon as I change directions and stitch horizontally, it all catches again and the stitches are fine. moving in a downward position is just fine, too.
correct about the last statement. it is odd to me too.
#6
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OK, so it's not forming stitches - is your needle inserted and barely rotated just slightly left or right? You don't want it perfectly at 6 o'clock. I use 6:30, some use 5:30.
Also maybe lower the hopping foot just a scootch if there's much of a gap between the foot and the quilt top.
It sounds like the upper thread is being pulled just a little when you're pushing the machine to the back.
Also maybe lower the hopping foot just a scootch if there's much of a gap between the foot and the quilt top.
It sounds like the upper thread is being pulled just a little when you're pushing the machine to the back.
#7
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Location: Utah
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The presser foot should just let go of a business card when the needle bar (no needle) is in it's lowest position.
I also turn my needle slightly to the right.
I usually use a size 100 needle for quilting.
The hook should pass into the cut-out area of the needle, and touch the needle when the needle is gently pressed.
I saw a crazy white on white fabric that would skip stitches every time the needle hit the ink. Does your fabric have thick ink on it?
I also turn my needle slightly to the right.
I usually use a size 100 needle for quilting.
The hook should pass into the cut-out area of the needle, and touch the needle when the needle is gently pressed.
I saw a crazy white on white fabric that would skip stitches every time the needle hit the ink. Does your fabric have thick ink on it?
#8
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yep, I was taught if you only have skipped stitches in one direction, like moving front to back or left to right, then play around with the needle. It has to do with how the thread is coming off the bobbin in the direction that you are going in. The suggestion for my machine was trying to put the needle opening about 6:30. I got some of those "needle magnets" to help me set my needle where I want it
If you are interested in needle magnets. do a search for "needle magnets for longarm"
If you are interested in needle magnets. do a search for "needle magnets for longarm"
#9
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I just did a search and found this site and have printed out some information for future use. Thanks for the question.
https://www.apqs.com/the-definitive-...chine-needles/
https://www.apqs.com/the-definitive-...chine-needles/
#10
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Join Date: Aug 2020
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Have you checked the height of the presser foot? I find I get skipped stitches in one direction (with holes in the fabric) if my foot is slightly too high... give it a try! Needle position can be like that too but I find it less likely to be the cause of skipped stitches.