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    Old 07-16-2019, 03:15 AM
      #11  
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    That's one of the reasons I press all of my seams open. Unless it's a pp'd block of course. Much flatter results all the way around (no pun intended).
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    Old 07-16-2019, 03:29 AM
      #12  
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    Sorry about your lumps, I too press all my seams open and rarely have this issue. Just remember, if you press your seams open you’ll want to decrease your stitch length too.
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    Old 07-16-2019, 03:43 AM
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    I think I like rryder’s Method. I am going to try that. Lol
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    Old 07-16-2019, 03:57 AM
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    Here you go!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhMOK2iBJY0
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    Old 07-16-2019, 04:03 AM
      #15  
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    When a lot of seams meet, I grade (trim) each seam after sewing. Then when they all come together there is not bulk.
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    Old 07-16-2019, 06:09 AM
      #16  
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    Typically I press open. There are times when I don't, like curved pieces, but if I can I press open.

    I like just having one rule, when you press to the side there are a kazillion different addendum to "press to the dark side" unless this happens or that happens, or you alternate, or whatever. Plus I simply don't like the look of a 1/4" of three layers of white next to a piece that only has one layer.

    In this case, I would indeed try the swirl thing if pressing open didn't work.

    I believe pressing open requires the use of pins. When you do press to the sides you can nest them together by the lumps. I see people who do wonderful things without the use of pins, for me, I can't do it without the pins!
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    Old 07-16-2019, 08:32 AM
      #17  
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    Originally Posted by tallchick
    Sorry about your lumps, I too press all my seams open and rarely have this issue. Just remember, if you press your seams open you’ll want to decrease your stitch length too.
    Very good point, Tallchick. I was thinking about this just yesterday. I am amazed at the huge stitches some people use and am not surprised when their seam ends fray and such. I asked one friend about it a couple of years ago and she said it was easier for her to take out if needed. I asked her how much time she spent taking out stitches as opposed to having to deal with the last half inch of all her strips being bad...

    I have to admit with my vision issues I can not see well enough anymore to take out stitches if the thread coordinates with the fabric. So I pretty much always use a camel brown or a grey-blue, plus since I make scrap quilts I can't do much in terms of matching thread to fabric.

    With the Bernina I was given, the "default" stitch was too long for me. If you can easily pull away 3-4 stitches from the end of a seam, it's too long and/or not tight enough for quilting.

    When you do strip piecing you also need a smaller stitch length than in garment construction because you are going to cut through those stitches.

    I'm not used to these modern numbers, but I start with a stitch of about 12 to an inch, I'd have to check on what I have the Bernina set to now. If I'm doing something like cutting appliques (I usually use the facing/slit and turn it inside out method) I'll go to something closer like 16. Paper piecing also I typically use a tiny stitch. I never ever go down (up??) to 10 stitches to an inch while piecing.

    Last edited by Iceblossom; 07-16-2019 at 08:44 AM.
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    Old 07-16-2019, 08:42 AM
      #18  
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    Here is how to grade the seam. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYLIVgDaChU forward to 3:20 and great tips at 5:20

    Last edited by Onebyone; 07-16-2019 at 08:44 AM.
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    Old 07-16-2019, 02:12 PM
      #19  
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    Thank you Onebyone, that link is so useful!
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    Old 07-16-2019, 02:47 PM
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    That link is helpful but cutting that "V" scares the daylights out of me. But I have lots of fabric so I'm going to give it a shot.
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