Making skinny bindings
#12
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 9,018
...and instead of kind of binding done on quilt...done that way for longer wear,BTW, I would do as the store bought kind....Clover makes little gizmos that does the folding part perfectly, then just sew it on both sides at the same time
#13
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,325
I have found that when I do binding, after I have initially sewed it on, I press it, just as I do with any seams, I am not sure if this is just me, but I have thought with this little bit extra of work that I would not necessarily need to cut it at 2 1/2, that it could be cut narrower. The next time I decide to sew up some coasters will definitely try the narrower, I do like how the narrow binding looks. The lady that I took my first quilting class with, said to cut the binding at 2 1/4, at the time I thought that was too narrow, but with pressing it would work, I think. Her words, I like to see a nice narrow binding framing the quilt, of course she hand sewed it to the back and that is where I would differ from her, yes I like the narrow look, but would rather machine sew it. I will watch this and see what others add.
Interesting and learning topic!
Interesting and learning topic!
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lincoln. MI
Posts: 491
I actually love to do bindings. Always have, even when I would sew the binding on the quilt with machine and hand stitch it to the back. It was relaxing to me, albeit time consuming. Now though I too use the glue method (will need to try the glue stick, I've only used the Elmer's school glue in the squeeze bottles). For Christmas presents I made over 40 paperpieced pot holders, and 8 table runners and did the glue binding on all of them. It makes it very, very easy to totally machine sew the binding, and to keep it nice and even on the back of the quilt.
#18
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Prescott Valley, AZ
Posts: 1,329
I cut all my bindings 1 3/4", then fold in half. However, for table toppers and placemats I find a variation birthing works best. I make my backings 2 pieces so it will have a seam down the middle, but I only sew the seams on the ends so there is an opening in the center. Sandwich as normal, and sew all the way around the outside. Birth the quilt through the opening left in the backing seam, then hand stitch the opening closed. Doing it this way all the outside edges lay flatter as they don't get stretched or folded unevenly during birthing and hand stitching.
#19
I cut all my bindings 1 3/4", then fold in half. However, for table toppers and placemats I find a variation birthing works best. I make my backings 2 pieces so it will have a seam down the middle, but I only sew the seams on the ends so there is an opening in the center. Sandwich as normal, and sew all the way around the outside. Birth the quilt through the opening left in the backing seam, then hand stitch the opening closed. Doing it this way all the outside edges lay flatter as they don't get stretched or folded unevenly during birthing and hand stitching.
I make mostly art quilts and don't prefer a wide binding. Just cut your binding fabric narrower to start with. You can experiment with a 6" long piece and stitch it to a short section of a quilted sandwich. Do this with several widths, label what you used and keep for future reference.
Another way, if the item you are making will not be two-sided (like a placemat is), is to make a facing. I usually cut the facing 2 - 2.5" wide, fold in half wrong sides together. Sew this to the right side of both sides of the quilt. Press the seam allowance toward the facing, pull to the back, press the outer edge again ( pull the facing back a bit so the seam rolls a tiny bit more towards the back) and hand stitch in place. Then repeat and do the top and bottom edges. No binding will show on the front, but your edges are finished. Sew your sleeve on over the top of this facing, if desired.
#20
I love skinny bindings, especially on wall quilts. One thing to remember though is that the skinnier the binding, the more likely any inconsistency will be obvious.
For this wallhanging with its repeated small in and out curves, a single layer binding finishing just under 1/4" and handstitched on the back worked best.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]452529[/ATTACH]
This bed quilt had gentler curves, which allowed me to use a slightly wider binding and finish by stitching in the ditch from the front, catching the binding edge on the reverse side. This is my usual way of binding.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]452530[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]452531[/ATTACH]
I wanted to finish my latest wall quilt by the same method, but fabric available for cutting the binding was so scant that I ended up cutting 1-3/4" strips and handstitching on the back.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]452532[/ATTACH]
Daffy
For this wallhanging with its repeated small in and out curves, a single layer binding finishing just under 1/4" and handstitched on the back worked best.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]452529[/ATTACH]
This bed quilt had gentler curves, which allowed me to use a slightly wider binding and finish by stitching in the ditch from the front, catching the binding edge on the reverse side. This is my usual way of binding.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]452530[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]452531[/ATTACH]
I wanted to finish my latest wall quilt by the same method, but fabric available for cutting the binding was so scant that I ended up cutting 1-3/4" strips and handstitching on the back.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]452532[/ATTACH]
Daffy
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03-14-2011 12:23 AM